A MANUAL 



ON 



boys' and girls' agricultural 
Club Work 



Compiled by 

W. J. Jernigan 

State Boys' and Girls' Club Agent 




For the Development of the 
Heady Heart, Hands and Health 



EXTENSION DIVISION 

COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE, UNIVERSITY OF ARKANSAS 

U. S. Department of Agriculture, Co-operating 



Q. PUaH PRINTINQ CO., LITTLE ROCK, ARK. 




Class .._.-, ^M._ 

A s« 



A MANUAL "7^ 



ON 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' 
AGRICULTURAL CLUB WORK 



Designed Especially for Use of Rural Teachers 



Compiled by 

W. J. JERNIGAN 
State Boys' and Girls' Club Agent 






EXTENSION DIVISION 
College of Agriculture, University of Arkansas 

U. S. Department of Agriculture, Co-operating 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



1 



To Teachers and School Officials: 

I have carefully examined this manual and I find it just what 
I have for sometime wanted to see issued on the Boys' and Girls' 
Agricultural Cluh Work as it is organized and managed in this 
State. I am deepl\ interested in this work and will, as I have 
always done, use my influence in helping to make it a success 
throughout the entire State for I consider this work as beings no 
small factor in our system of education for giving thoroughly 
practical training to our farmer boys and girls. I, therefore, do 
not hesitate to urge all rural teachers in this State to have, if 
possible, an organization of clubs such as is outlined in this 
manual, and, further, to reconnnend that this manual be used, 
wherever practicable, as the writer has intended it, that is, as a 
supplement to the regular textbook in agriculture. 

It would certainly be very gratifying to me to be able to say 
for our State that every rural school having boys and girls be- 
tween the ages of 10 and 18 has a regularly organized Agricul- 
tural Club, and this, I know, is the desire of those in charge of 
this work in the State, .lust a little cooperation from each 
school that is ready for this work will bring this about and I 
shall take great pleasure in doing all I can, both directly and 
indirectly, in securing this cooperation. 

'^'ours truly, 

J. L. BOND. 
State Superintendent of Public Instruction. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ^ 



DOCgMfei>>Ti> . olON 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



EXTENSION DIVISION. 

College of Agriculture, University of Arkansas, 

U. S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperating. 



\Y. C. LASSETTER, Director. 
R. C. RILEY, Editor of Publications. 

COUNTY AGENT WORK. 

C. W. WATSON, State Agent. 
J. C. BARNETT, District Agent. 
R. C. DAVIDSON. District Agent. 
H. F. KNAPP, District Agent. 
J. E. McKELL, District Agent. 
S. P. \YEIGART, District Agent. 

HOME DEMONSTRATION WORK. 

MISS CONNIE J. BONSLAGEL, State Home Demonstration 

Agent. 
MISS HELEN S. BROWN, District Agent. 
MISS SALLIE CHAMBERLIN, District Agent. 
MISS CARRIE PLUNKETT, District Agent. 
MISS ISARELLE S. THURSBY, Specialist in Cookery. 
MRS. RUCH PECK McLEOD, Urban Emergency Agent. 

BOYS CLUB WORK. 

W. J. JERNIGAN, Assistant State Agent in Charge Boys' and 

Girls' Club Work. 
H. K. SANDERS, Boys' Pig Club Agent. 
M. C. GRAHAM, Assistant Boys' Club Agent. 
E. B. WHITAKER, Assistant Boys' Club Agent. 
G. W. BACOT, Assistant Boys' Club Agent. 
H. P. WOOD, Assistant Boys' Club Agent. 

SPECIALISTS. 

J. S. KNOX, Horticulturist. 

J. H. McLEOD, Livestock. 

LAWRENCE FOOT, Curing and Marketing Meat. 

V. W. KNOWLES, Hog Cholera Control. 

H. B. LANSDEN, Poultry Husbandry. 

R. G. SCRIBER, Assistant Veterinarian. 

C. D. STURBS, Assistant Veterinarian. 

LOUIS SAWYER, Beef Cattle Production. 

L. C. PALMER, Beef Cattle Production. 

J. B. PEERY, Beef Cattle Production. 

NEGRO WORKERS. 

H. C. RAY, District Agent. 
MARY RAY, District Agent. 

3 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



INTRODUCTION. 



This Manual is simply an embodiment of all rules and reg- 
ulations that pertain to the organization and management of 
Boys' and Girls' Agricultural Club Work as carried on in this 
State by the Extension Division of the University of Arkansas in 
cociperation with the United States Department of Agriculture, 
and the instructions that go to the members of the various clubs 
during the year. It has been prepared especially for the use of 
teachers in the rural schools who feel the need of this phase of 
work in Agriculture, and who desire to help in promoting same. 
It is intended that this Manual be used to supplement the regular 
text in Agriculture, and it is hoped that it will prove a great help 
to the teacher in vitalizing not only the work in Agriculture, but 
all school work. The lessons herein contained are sent in sep- 
arate forms to the members of their respective clubs at seasonal 
periods of the year. Members should be asked to bring these 
lesson sheets to school for use in their recitation work. The 
performance of the actual club work with the plants or live stock 
will simply be the means of putting into application the prin- 
ciples contained not only in this Manual but in the textbook on 
Agriculture, and should be considered as a laboratory exercise of 
all work in Agriculture. 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



SCOPE OF THE WORK. 



The Boys' and Girls' Agricultural Club Work is a part of the 
regular Extension Work that is conducted by the College of Ag- 
riculture of the University of Arkansas, in codperation with the 
United States Department of Agriculture, and consists of Corn 
Clubs, Cotton Clubs, Peanut Clubs, Potato Clubs, Wheat Clubs, 
Pig Clubs, Calf Clubs, and Sheep Clubs for the boys, and Canning 
Club, Poultry Clubs and Butter Clubs for the girls. 

However, any boy or girl may join any of the clubs, but of 
course it is preferred that the boys raise corn, pigs, cotton, pea- 
nuts, calves, etc., and that the girls coniine their activities to 
growing an all-around garden; raising poultry for home use and 
for the market; conserving foods by drying, canning, preserving, 
brining, etc.; to planning, cooking, and serving meals of home- 
grown products; to making better bread and better butter; to 
cutting, making, and mending garments and household articles, 
such as caps, aprons, house dresses, laundry bags, dish towels, 
dresser scarfs, etc.; to making baskets of willow, oak splits, and 
other native materials; caring for the sick in the home and to 
improving the sanitary and social conditions of the home and in 
the community. As an indirect result of the women's work, the 
girls will be taught to make and use tireless cookers, iceless 
refrigerators and other labor saving devices. 

HOW THE WORK IS ORGANIZED. 



The active work of organization is done through the County 
Agents who are assisted by the specialists in charge of the Club 
Work, whose duty it is to plan the work, prepare literature for 
the various clubs, and help in the organization and management 
of the work. 

The County Agents are further assisted by the rural teachers 
and County Superintendents in the matter of organization; the 
business men, the women's clubs, connnercial clubs, railroads, 
and all other forms of commercial organizations render valuable 
assistance throughout the year in the organization and manage- 
ment of the work. 

Application cards for membership in the various clubs which 
all members are required to fdl out, a copy of which follows, 
below, are furnished the local agents, who, after indorsing and 
making a copy for self, forward same to the State Agent, who in 
in turn forwards copy to the State College and to the Washing- 
ton office, thereby having each member's name enrolled at three 
difTerent centers, which entitle them to all literature mailed out 
from those points. 

5 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

APPLICATION FOR MEMBERSHIP IN BOYS' AND 
GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUBS. 

I hereby make application for membership in the Boys' and 
Girls' Agricultural Club, agree to grow the crops or live stock as 
intlicated below, follow instructions, keep a complete record, and 
report on same in the fall. 

Name Age 

Name of parent or guardian 

Post Ofiice State 

R. D. No County Date 

Name of school 

Note. — Make a cross (X) opposite club or clubs you desire 
to join. 

Corn, 1 acre Potatoes (Irish), Vs acre Pig 

Cotton,! acre Potatoes (Sweet), Vs acre Poultry 

Canning, Vk, acre Peanuts, 1 acre Sheep 

Onion, Vs acre Wheat, 1 acre Calf 

GENERAL RULES FOR MEMBERSHIP IN ALL CLUBS 

1. All boys and girls desiring to join any club must be be- 
tween the ages of 10 and 18 on the lirst of Januar> of any given 
year. 

2. Members of any club will be recpiired to do their own 
work, except in cases of very heavy work, which they may have 
done by others by charging this expense to their account. 

3. All members are required to keep a record of the work in 
whatever club or clubs they belong to throughout the year and 
submit same in the fall, when called upon. 

4. Members will be asked to make an exhibit of their 
products in the fall of the year either at the County Fair or 
County Contest, where they will compete for prizes which will 
be awarded at that time. 

SPECIAL REGULATIONS FOR EACH CLUB. 
CORN CLUB. 

1. Each uKMuber of the Corn (;iub is ret[uired to take one 
measured acre of 4,480 stpiare yards, which should be measured 
at the beginning by two disinterested witnesses. 

2. Each member nuist keep an account of the number of 
hours he works, nund>er of hours he uses his horse during the 
year, and the record book nuist show the cost of production as 
follow^s: 

6 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CL UB MANUAL 

(1) Rent for land per acre $5.00 

(2) Per hours worked by each member 10 

(3) Per hours worked for each horse used 05 

(4) Per two-horse load stable manure (2,000 rb).... 2.00 

(5) Commercial fertilizers at actual cost 

3. Prizes will be awarded according to the following rules: 

(1) Greatest yield per acre 30 % 

(2) Best showing of net profit 30 % 

(3) Best exhibit of products 20 "/c 

(4) Best written history, "How I Made My Crop" . 20 % 

Total 100 '7c 

4. Two disinterested parties must witness the weighing of 
the corn and the following rules should be used: Weigh all corn 
in the shuck when it is dry. Then weigh out 100 pounds sep- 
arately. Shuck and shell this 100 pounds and weigh the shelled 
corn. Multiply the weight of all the corn in the shuck by the 
weight of the shelled corn. Point off" the two right-hand figures 
and divide by 50. This will give the yield in bushels of 
shelled corn per acre. 

5. Each member must use the following form, found in the 
back of his Daily Record Book, in verifying the measurement of 
his land and weighing of his corn. 

State of Arkansas, (bounty of 

I hereby certify that the plat of land upon which I planted 

and cultivated my corn is yards long and yards 

wide, and contains 4,480 square yards, or one acre. 

Signed member 

Witnesses: Post Office 



Date. 



State of Arkansas, County of 

I hereby certify that my corn was harvested after it was 

thoroughly matured and in a dry condition. The percentage of 

shelled corn was obtained in accordance with Rule No. 4 of this 

bulletin. 

The percentage was 

Total w^eight was tb 

Total yield was 

Signed member 

Witnesses : Post Office 



Date. 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

COTTON CLUB. 

1. Each member is re(iuired to take one full acre which 
should be measured in the beginning in the same manner as for 
corn. 

2. The same charge for production, including land rent, 
barnyard manure, time charged per hour for self and horse, will 
be charged for (]otton VAuh members as for Corn Club members. 

3. The weight of the cotton nuist be witnessed by both 
weigher and ginner, who will sign the regular form found in the 
back of the daily record book. 

4. An exhibit of cotton shall consist of ten open bolls, one- 
half pound lint, and one pound seed cotton. 

5. The four points contained in the score card for corn will 
be the same points by which the best record in the Cotton Cdub 
will be determined. 

PEANUT CLUB. 

1. Members of this club shall take one measured acre the 
same as for cotton and corn. 

2. Charges for production, including land rent, barnyard 
manure, time per hour for self and horse, will be charged in this 
club the same as corn or cotton clubs. 

3. In determining the number of bushels of peanuts per 
acre, the following rules shall be observed: 

(1) Weigh the entire crop of peanuts and vines together. . 

(2) Weigh out 100 pounds of peanuts and vines. 

(3) Pick the nuts from this lOO-pound lot and weigh them. 

(4) Multiply the entire weight of the peanuts and vines by 
the weight of the peanuts picked from the lOO-pound lot, point 
off the two right-hand ligures and divide by 30, if the peanuts are 
of the Spanish variety, and by 22 if the peanuts are of the large 
or .lumbo variety. This will give the nund^er of bushels per 
acre. 

4. An exhibit shall consist of one peck of seed peanuts and 
ten vines with peanuts on them. 

5. The same four points for determining the best record in 
the corn club will be considered in determining the best record 
made in the Peanut Club. 

POTATO CLUB. 

1. Members of this club are required to take one-eighth acre 
which should be planted in both spring and fall potatoes, thereby 
giving two crops during the year. 

2. The same regulations for keeping of records, cost of pro- 
duction, etc., will be charged in this work as for other clubs. 

3. An exhibit shall consist of one peck of potatoes. 



BOYS' AND J}IRLS^ AGRICU L TURAL CLUB MANUAL 

4. The same four points contained in score card for corn, 
that is, greatest yield, best showing of profit, best exhibit and 
best history of the crop, will be used in determining the best 
record made in this club. 

WHEAT CLUB. 

L Members of this club will be required to take at least one 
acre, but may plant more if they desire. One acre, however, will 
be the basis for competition. 

2. Records of cost of production, methods of growing the 
crop, must be kept in this club the same as for others. 

3. An exhibit shall consist of one peck of wheat. 

4. The same four points for determining the best record 
will be used in this club as in the other clubs. 

PIG CLUB. 

Work in the Pig Club for boys and girls will be conducted 
along the following lines: 

First year members may select, if possible, a pure-bred gilt 
during the early part of the year and care for it until the follow- 
ing fall, at which time it should be bred with the view of raising 
one or more litters — depending upon the age of the sow the fol- 
lowing year; or they may select a pure-bred boar for breeding 
purposes; or they may select and raise a barrow or sow for meat 
purposes. 

Second year members are urged to raise one or more litters, 
depending on the age of the sow, from the gilt that he cared for 
during the first year. 

The third year's work will be a continuation of the second 
year, to which may be added the Ham and Bacon Club. 

Each member is required to keep a record book showing the 
kind of feed and kind of pasture used, the cost of each, and the 
number of pounds of gain made by the pig and cost of same. 
This is required of all members, whether they have one pig or a 
sow and litter. This record book is to be mailed to the County 
Agent at the end of the year, or to the State Pig Club Agent if 
there be no County Agent. 

Members will be required, where possible, to make an ex- 
hibit at their County Fair or Contest where prizes will be 
awarded according to the following score card: 

(1) The best hog with respect to the purpose which 

it is to serve 40 % 

(2) The greatest daily gains on hogs 15 % 

(3) Cheapest cost of production 25 % 

(4) Best kept record of the feeding and care of the 

pig 20 % 

Total 100% 

9 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



The following charges for feeds and pastures should be made 
by each member. When two or more of these pasture crops are 
used at the same time, charges for the costlier one must be made: 

Market prices for corn, shorts, peanut meal, velvet bean 
meal, tankage, and other concentrated feeds, should be charged. 

Two cents per gallon should be charged for skim milk, and 
one cent per gallon for kitchen slop. 

Seventy-live cents per month for each pig must be charged 
for green corn, cane, sorghum, vegetables, etc. 

Twenty-five cents a week, or three cents a day, must be 
charged for the following pastures: Peanut, chufas, sweet po- 
tatoes, cowpeas, velvet beans. 

Twenty cents a week will be charged for the following pas- 
tures: Rape, Japanese cane, sorghum, Sudan grass, clover, veg- 
etables. 

Thirteen cents a week will be charged for oats, rye, or 
barle> . 

Two and one-half cents a week will be charged for woods 
pasture. 

Seven cents a week will be charged for Bermuda grass or 
crab grass. 

Ten cents a week will be charged for cornfield after har- 
vesting. 

CALF CLUB. 

1. Members desiring to grow the beef type of cattle are 
urged to select high-grade calves about eight or ten months old 
in the fall of the year, or around weaning time. 

2. Members desiring to grow dairy cattle for the purpose of 
selling dairy products or dairy cattle will be asked to select 
high-grade heifers eight or ten months old, or, if they prefer, 
high-grade bred heifers, in the fall of the year. 

,3. Members desiring to grow fat calves for beef production 
should select high-grade calves in the fall of the year and care 
for them until the following fall. 

4. Members of this club will be required to follow instruc- 
tions as far as possible in arranging pastures, growing feed, pre- 
vention of diseases, etc. 

iS. Wherever possible, members will be asked to exhibit 
their calves at the County Fair or Contest, where they will be 
judged according to the score of w^hatever breed of cattle is 
exhibited. 

SHEEP CLUB. 

1. Members of this club will be asked to select in the fall 
of the year high-grade bred ewes, if possible, or high-grade 
lambs, and care for the same during one entire period or year. 

2. Members will be required to follow instructions, as far 

10 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



as possible, in growing the feed that is necessary for the cheep, 
for the prevention of diseases, and management of the sheep. 
3. Members will be asked to exhibit their sheep at the 
County Fair or Contest. 

CANNING CLUB. 

1. Members of this club shall take a plat of one-tenth 
acre and plant to tomatoes or other vegetables, as directed in 
Lesson No. 7. 

2. Each member must keep a record of all work per- 
formed in connection with her garden on record books fur- 
nished for this purpose, the records to show the actual num- 
ber of pounds of vegetables grown, the amount canned or used 
at home, and the cost of all such operations. 

3. Each member is asked to make an exhibit of her 
products at the County Fair or Contest. 

4. In addition to the daily record book, each member is 
urged to prepare a booklet on how she grew her one-tenth acre 
garden, which should be submitted with her record book. 

5. As a part of the work in sewing, each girl is reciuired 
to make for herself a cap and apron, the kind used throughout 
the State by all Canning Club members. 

POULTRY CLUB. 

(See Instructions in Lesson No. 1.) 



ORGANIZATION OF COMMUNITY CLUBS. 

BOYS AND GIRLS. 

It is necessary that club members form themselves into 
groups or clubs in order that they may receive from all avail- 
able sources, the help that is possible to give them. Ry organ- 
izing into clubs, they will derive the following advantages: 

1. The County Agent and County Superintendent can meet 
with the members more regularly and thus give more frequent 
and needed instructions. 

2. The members will learn the value of pulling together, 
buying together, selling together, and cooperating in all phases 
of community betterment. 

3. The members will learn the rules of parliamentary prac- 
tice, the methods of organizing and conducting meetings of any 
and all kinds, and will receive good training in public speaking. 

4. The club, as a whole, may get the benefit of each mem- 
ber's experience in the management of his or her crop, live stock, 
etc., thus giving the knowledge of each to all. 

5. By being organized into groups, it will be easier to secure 
extra speakers or instructors at the regular meetings. 

11 



__ jJOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

6. In short, the principle that "In Union there is Strength," 
may be developed in many if not all phases of social life, and by 
grouping themselves together, the members will be placing them- 
selves so that it will be possible for the supervisors of the work, 
both County and State, to give them assistance, which they could 
not otherwise give them. 

HOW TO ORGANIZE A COMMUNITY CLUB. 

There should be no fixed geographical limit for the local or 
Connnunity Club. It may consist of one or more school districts, 
or of only parts of districts. The township is often a convenient 
unit for organization. Any community where boys and girls can 
conveniently get together for club meetings may determine the 
territory of the local club. 

It is suggested that the teacher call a meeting of the boys 
and girls for the purpose of organizing a community club. The 
County Agents and County Superintendent, should be present to 
assist in the organization. It should be explained at this meeting 
that the club will consist of mend^ers, both boys and girls, from 
all of the Agricultural Clubs that may be organized in that com- 
munity. The County Agents or whoever may be present, as 
leaders in the organization, should explain fully the purpose of 
the organization and what is hoped to be accomplished at the 
several meetings during the year. The suggestive program 
which follows might be read with the view of giving the mem- 
bers an outline of what is to be accomplished during the year. 

The club should elect at least three oHicers: President, Vice 
President, Secretary-Treasurer, and possibly a fourth oflicer, a 
reporter, whose duty it is to report the results of each meeting. 

If thought best, connnittees might be appointed on member- 
ship, entertainment, and programs. 

Care should be taken in selecting the local leader or presi- 
dent, for a great deal w-ill depend on him or her in holding the 
meetings together during the year. It would be best to select 
some one who has had more or less experience in Club Work, or 
work of this nature. It might be well for the teacher to act as 
local leader, for a while at least. 

If possible, the County Agents or County Superintendent 
should be present at all meetings, and parents should also be 
urged to attend. 

Meetings should be held once a month, either at school- 
houses or other central points, or even at the homes of the 
members. In some cases, it may be best to hold separate meet- 
ings of the boys and girls, but many of the meetings may be 
joint meetings. 

The names of the officers of each club should be forwarded 
to the County Agent by the Secretary of the Club, who in turn 
should forward same to the State OfTicers. 

12 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

SUGGESTED CONSTITUTION FOR BOYS' AND GIRLS' 
AGRICULTURAL CLUBS. 

L NAME OF THE CLUB. 

This Club shall be known as the 

Agricultural Club of County. 

II. OBJECT OF THE CLUB. 

1. To teach the boys the fundamental principles of Agricul- 
ture and the best principles of live stock growing. 

2. To teach the girls the principles of gardening, poultry 
growing, and home science and home building. 

3. To teach the advantages of organization and cooperation 
in the marketing of their products. 

4. To teach the rules of parliamentary practice, the methods 
of organizing and conducting meetings. 

5. To teach the principle that "In union there is strength," 
and to develop more and better phases of social life. 

IIL MEMBERSHIP. 

Boys and girls who are members of the Agricultural Clubs 
may be members of this Club. 

IV. OFFICERS. 

The ofTicers of this Club shall consist of President, Vice Pres- 
ident, Secretary-Treasurer and Reporter. 

V. DUTIES OF MEMBERS. 

The duties of the members shall be those laid down in the 
regular rules for each club. 

VI. DUTIES OF OFFICERS. 

It will be the duty of the President to call meetings and 
preside over same, and, in his absence, the Vice President shall 
take the chair. It will be the duty of the Secretary-Treasurer to 
keep a record of all meetings and report same to the County 
Agent, and to account for any funds that may be handled through 
the organization. It will be the duty of the Reporter to furnish 
to the local newspapers the progress of the Club, interesting 
meetings, etc. 



13 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



COMMUNITY CLUB RECORD CONTEST. 

AGRICULTURE — BOYS AND GIRLS. 

The following score card will be used in determining the 
Coninuinity Club that has made the best record in the county: 
L Largest number of boys and girls enrolled 25 

2. Highest average attendance at Conmiunity meetings... 25 

3. Highest average percentage of members submitting 

complete reports 25 

4. Highest average percentage of members making 

exhibits 25 

Total 100 



COMMUNITY CLUB EXHIBIT CONTEST. 

AGRICULTURE — BOYS AND GIRLS. 

Each Community Club for boys and girls will make its ex- 
hibit as a unit, which will be judged by the following score card: 

1. Quantity (greatest number of exhibits) 50 

2. Quality (highest total score of individual exhibits) 50 

Total 100 

Note. — By "greatest number of exhibits" is meant that each member will 
be permitted to make one exhibit from whatever club or clubs to which he 
or she belongs. For instance, if a boy belongs to the Corn, Pig, and Cotton 
Clubs, he will be permitted to make an exhibit from each one, which will 
count three exhibits, and so on for all members. 

By "highest total score of individual exhibits" is meant that each indi- 
vidual exhibit will be scored separately and then all totaled. 



SUGGESTED PRIZES FOR COMMUNITY CLUBS. 

1. Loving cup. 

2. Suitable library for club members. 

3. Victrola for school. 

4. Stereopticon machine. 

5. Basket-ball set. 

6. Baseball set. 

7. And many other similar and suitable things. 

Note.— The offering of community prizes does not forl)id the offering of 
individual prizes. 



14 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



TOPICS TO SELECT FROM IN PREPARING PRO- 
GRAM FOR BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL 
COMMUNITY CLUB MONTHLY MEETINGS. 

(Meetings may be held jointly or separately, and once a 
month if possible.) 

FOR BOYS. 

JANUARY TOPICS. 

1. (Corn) How to select the acre for demonstration. (Circular 

No. 1. — Corn.) 

2. (Pig) Points to look for in selecting pig for breeding pur- 

poses. (Circular No. 2. — Pig.) 

3. (Potatoes) Preparing seed bed, and fertilization. (Circular 

No. 1. — Potatoes.) 

4. (Sheep) Management of ewe before lambing. (Circular No. 

4. — Sheep.) 

5. (Pig) What type of hog is best — big-boned or small-boned? 

6. (Pig) Value of one breed for our comnuinity. (Write for 

special information.) 

7. (Corn) Barnyard manure, value, how and when to apply. 

(Circular No. L — Corn.) 

8. (Cotton) Early spring preparation for seed bed. (Circular 

No. 1.— Cotton.) 

9. (Calf) How I am housing, feeding, and managing my calf. 

10. (Corn) How much plant food will a 50-bushel yield of corn 

remove from the soil? (Circular No. "A" 70. — Farm 
Manure and Fertilizers.) 

11. (Reports) Reports from each member on what he has done. 

12. (Instructions) County Agents explain how to keep record 

books. 

13. (Instructions) (bounty Agents explain score card by which 

the club as a whole will be judged. 

FEBRUARY TOPICS. 

. 1. (Pig) Pastures for Pigs. (Circulars Nos. 3, 5, and 6; also 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 411.) 

2. (Calf and Sheep) Spring pastures. (Circular No. 3. — Sheep.) 

3. (Corn) How to prepare a good seed bed. (Circular No. 2. — 

Corn.) 

4. (Corn) What is humus, its value and how secured? (Circu- 

lar No.'l. — Corn.) 

5. (Corn) Demonstration: Making seed corn tester, both box 

and rag doll. 

6. (Corn) Varieties best adapted for our community. (Circular 

No. 3.— Corn.) 

7. (Cotton) Preparation of seed bed. (Circular No. 1.— Cotton.) 

15 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

8. (Potatoes) Selecting seed and planting. (Circular No. 2. — 

Potatoes.) 

9. (Potatoes) Treating potatoes before planting for scab. (Cir- 

cular No. 2. — Potatoes.) 

10. (Live Stock) Rate of growth, calves, pigs, and lambs should 
make per day. 

IL (Pig) How to make pure-bred pigs more popular in our 
community. 

12. (General) What is meant by "Scientific Farming?" 

13. (General) How I am caring for my farm machinery. 

14. (Debate) Resolvetl, That vaccinating of hogs is profitable. 

15. (Rotation) Describe a four-year rotation and show the place 

corn has in it. 

16. (Reports) Report from individual members. (Never omit 

this.) 

17. (Instructions) By County Agents and teachers. 

MARCH TOPICS 

1. (Corn) Methods of planting corn, and the best time. (Cir- 

cular No. 4. — Corn.) 

2. (Corn) Is good seed essential to large production, and why? 

(Circular No. 3.— Corn.) 

3. (Corn) Obstacles to overcome in securing a perfect stand. 

(Circulars Nos. 1, 2, and 3. — Corn.) 

4. (Pig) Early spring pointers. (Circulars Nos. 4 and 6. — Pig.) 

5. (Pig) What is a hog for? 

6. (Pig) Self-feeders, demonstrate, if possible. (Write for spe- 

cial information.) 

7. (Live Stock) Paper — Feeding motherless pigs, calves, and 

lambs. 

8. (Cotton) Selecting seed and planting. ((Circular No. 2. — 

Cotton.) 
0. (Potatoes) ('ultivation. (Circular No. 3. — Potatoes.) 

10. (Potatoes) Spraying for blight — demonstration. (Circular 

No. 3.— Potatoes.) 

11. (Peanut) Preparing the seed bed. (Circular No. 1. — Peanut.) 

12. (Live Stock) Permanent pastures, and how to secure them. 

13. (Corn) Report on the acreage of corn in (bounty — in the 

State. 

14. (Corn) How acreage of corn compares with other crops in 

County — in State. 

15. (General) Some "leaks" on the farm, and how to stop them. 
IG. (Reports) From individual members on progress of work. 
17. (Instructions) By County Agents and teachers. 

16 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



APRIL TOPICS. 

Pig) Sanitation: How to keep pigs free from lice, worms, 
and cholora. (Show by demonstration, if possible. Far- 
mers' Bulletin No. 566, page 9.) 

Pig) How much should pigs weigh at difFerent ages. (Cir- 
cular No. 4. — Pig.) 

3. (Pig) Growing and feeding rape. (Circular No. 3: — Pig; 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 411.) 

4. (Sheep) Feeding the ewe and lamb. (Circular No. 2. — 

Sheep.) 

5. (Corn) How to regulate the planter. 

6. (Corn) Report on test made for germination at last meeting. 

7. (Corn) How the corn plant grows. (See Textbook.) 

8. (Corn) Early cultivation, getting ahead of the grass and 
weeds. (Circular No. 5. — Corn.) 

Cotton) Early cultivation, kind of implements to use. (Cir- 
cular No. 3. — Cotton.) 
10. (Peanut) Planting. (Circular No. 1. — Peanut.) 
n. (General) Farms that do not fail. 

12. (General) How to make our club bigger and better. 

13. (General) How we can help each other through our club. 

14. (General) What is a farm laborer worth "from his shoulders 

down?" "From the top of his head down?" 

15. (Debate) Resolved, That fdthy conditions kill more pigs than 

cholera. 

16. (Debate) Resolved, That if we had more birds we would 

have fewer insects. 

17. (General) Harmful insects, helpful insects. 

18. (General) Harmful birds, helpful birds, 

19. Instructions by County Agents. 

MAY TOPICS. 



[Corn) Insects and diseases, and how to combat them. 

[Corn) Reports on stand by each member. 

[Corn) How I secured a perfect stand of corn. 

[Corn) Number of stalks on my acre, and what I expect to 

make. 
[Corn) How often, how deep, and how late to cultivate. 

(Circular No. 5. — Corn.) 
6. (Pig) How I make my pig gain a pound a day. (Circulars 

Nos. 4 and 5. — Pig.) 
[Pig) Demonstration on how to make lime-charcoal mixture. 
[Calf) How I am making my calf gain two pounds a day. 
[Sheep) Caring for the spring lambs. (Circular No. 5. — 

Sheep.) 
10. (Pig) Recitation, Coburn's panegeric on "His Majesty, the 

Hog." (In Duroc-Jersev Bulletin, March 1, 1916, page 5.) 
17 



BO YS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

IL (Peanut) Cultivation. (Circular No. 2. — Peanut.) 

12. (Potatoes) Digging and handling. (Circular No. 4. — Potato.) 

13. (Cotton) 'iliinning and cultivation. (Circular No. 3. — 

Cotton.) 

14. (Cotton). How I .secured a perfect stand. 

15. (Debate) Resolved, That there is more in feed than in the 

breed. 
If). (Debate) Resolved, That a lead pencil is the most useful im- 

pleiuent farmers can use. 
17. Instructions by County Agents and teachers. 

JUNE TOPICS. 

1. (Corn) Does it pay to cultivate late? (Circular No. 5. — Corn.) 

2. (C]orn) Should we pull fodder? 

3. (Corn) Planting cowpeas or other legumes in the corn. 

4. (Pig) The school pig: How to secure one. 

5. (Live Stock) Sunnuer care of pigs, calves, and lambs. 

6. (Potatoes) Preparing for fall planting. 

7. ((Cotton) When should we stop plowing? (Circulars Nos. 3 

and 4. — Cotton.) 

8. (General) How to keep land from washing. 
1). (General) How to buihl up a run-down farm. 

10. (General) Labor-saving implements. 

11. (General) Why we could not run this club without girls. 

Note. — Tlic program for this month might consist of field demonstrations 
in late cnltivation, care, and management of live stock. 

.JULY TOPICS. 

1. It is suggested that this meeting be held in conjunction with 
the Girls' meeting, and assist them in their canning dem- 
onstrations. 

AUGUST TOPICS. 

1. ((]orn) Describe an ideal stalk of corn, and illustrate by 

example. (Circular No. 8. — Corn.) 

2. (Corn) Describe an ideal ear of corn, and illustrate b> ex- 

ample. (Circular No. 8. — Corn.) 

3. (Cover Crops) Kind and value of. ((Circular No. 7.) 

4. (Pig) Fall and winter pastures. (Circulars Nos. 3 and 6. — 

^Pig.) 

5. (Calf and Sheep) Fall an<l winter pastures. (Circulars Nos. 

2 and 3.) 
(). ((]orn) What constitutes a good exhibit? (Circular No. 8.) 

7. (Peanut) What constitutes a good exhibit? 

8. (Pig) How to prepare your pig for exhibit. (Circular No. 

8.— Pig.) 

9. (Wheat) Soil rc(iiiirements and time to plant. (Circulars 

Nos. 1 and 2.) 
10. (Wheat) How to prepare the seed bed. (Circular No. 1.) 

18 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



11. (Wheat) Treating for smut before planting. 

12. (Potato) Fall planting. 

13. (Potato) How I kept my seed from the early erop. 

14. (Record Book) Who has a perfectly kept record book? (Pie- 

ports from all members.) 

15. Instructions by County Agents and teachers. 

SEPTEMBER TOPICS. 

1. (Corn) Field selection of seed. (Demonstrate in field. Cir- 

cular No. 6. — Corn.) 

2. (Pig) Fall rape. (Circular No. 3.— Pig.) 

3. (General) How can w-e make the best community exhibit? 

4. (General) Who will make an exhibit? (P>eports from all 

members.) 

5. (Live Stock) What are we doing now for the calves an<l 

lambs? 

6. (Live Stock) Housing the pigs, calves, and lambs. 

7. (General) Taking care of our farm machinery. 

8. (General) How may our club become more useful to our 

connnunity? 
!). (Pig) Producing strong pigs. (Circular No. 10. — Pig.) 
10. Instructions by County Agents on How to prepare exhibits. 

OCTOBER TOPICS. 

1. (General) Reports from each member on what he saw and 

learned at the Fair. 

2. (General) Discussion, How can we all profit from our Com- 

munity Fair? 

3. Instructions by County Agents. 

NOVEMBER TOPICS. 

1. ((]orn) Value of corn crop in (bounty. In .State. 

2. (Corn) Average yield of (>orn Club boys compared with that 

of the State. 

3. (Cotton) What is our cotton crop worth? County? State? 

4. (Pig) What is our hog crop worth? County? State? 

5. (Pig) How^ does our county compare with other counties in 

pork production? (See Year Book.) 
0. (Corn) Compare Arkansas with other corn-producing States. 

See Year Book.) 
7. (General) What is the value of all club products raise<l by 

our club? 
(S. (Pig) Managing the sow and litter. (Circular No. 11. — Pig.) 

9. (Sheep) The profit I have made from sheep. 

10. (General) Who has bank accounts? (Reports from all mem- 

bers.) 

11. Instructions by (>ounty Agents and teachers. 

19 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



DECEMBER TOPICS. 

1. (Corn) Judging corn by use of score card. (Circular No. 

8.— Corn.) 

2. (Corn) Fall and winter breaking. (Circular No. 2. — C^orn.) 
,'1 (Live Stock) Keeping the pigs, lambs, and calves warm. 

4. (Pig) What I have learned that will help me next year. 

5. (General) Suggestions from all as to how to make our club 

the best in the county. 
("). Who has anything for sale? (All members report.) 
7. Instructions by County Agents and teachers. 



FOR GIRLS. 

JANUARY TOPICS. 

1. How to select a plot for tomatoes. 

2. I have never measured a plot; how do I do it? 

3. How to make a tireless cooker. 

4. Using the tireless cooker at home. 

How we can use the lireless cooker in school. 

5. Song — "America." 

FEBRUARY TOPICS. 

1. How to make a hotbed. 

2. Why I joined an Agriculture (Hub. 
II Why we should eat fruits. 

4. How we may use dried fruits. 

5. Making and serving of apple whip. 

(5. How can I make hen nests well an<l inexpensively? 
7. Spelling match using words in P'ebruary instructions. 

MARCH TOPICS 

1. How to transplant tomatoes. 

2. How I made my corn bread. 

3. How I made peanut biscuit. 

4. Bread judging contest by girls. 

5. What should I have in my record book by this time? 

APRIL TOPICS. 

1. How I staked and pruned my tomato plants. 

2. Yeast bread: How 1 can use other things to save Hour. 

3. How mother makes light bread. 

4. My experience in making brea<l. 

5. I fed my chickens in this way. 

6. Scoring of breads by club girls. 

7. Song — "Conservation" 



20 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

MAY TOPICS. 

1. How my plot looks. 

2. Study of a healthy plant. 

3. What other vegetable can I prepare to can? 

4. Ways in which Club girls are using eggs in omelettes and 

combined with sauces. 

5. Making of a home-made canner. 

6. May Pole Dance. 

7. Sealing cans by girls. 

JUNE TOPICS. 

L What shall I have ready for canning? 

2. The canning of English peas. 

3. How I used strawberries fresh. 

4. How I made strawberry preserves. 

5. Troubles I have had with my chicks, 
fi. What I should wear in canning. 

7. Can we secure standard exhibit jars by having a box supper, 

an ice cream supper, or a picnic this month? 

8. The best tomato contest. 
{). Song. 

JULY TOPICS. 

L What shall I prepare for the fair in this county? 

2. What kind of jars do I want? For exhibit use? For home 

use? 

3. The things I have learned this month about canning. 

4. Canning tomatoes and beans. 

5. Special canning demonstration. 

AUGUST TOPICS. 

L Let us dry all that we have not the jars to can. How? What? 

2. How I made my drier. 

3. How I am using my Pimento peppers. 

4. Exhibit of dried fruits and vegetables by girls. 

5. How I am keeping my canning up to "4-H" standards. 

6. Yell for best assortment of dried fruits. 

7. Soup mixtures. 

SEPTEMBER TOPICS. 

1. These are some of the ways in which we use cowpeas and 

soy beans. 

2. How we can use the green tomatoes in pickle, mincemeat. 

3. My record up to date. 

4. Making Dixie Relish. 

5. Our plans for a Community Fair and Sales Day. 

6. Practice of songs and yells for Community Fair Day. 

21 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTllRAL CLUB MANUAL 



OCTOBER TOPICS. 

L Ls my record reaily for the County Agent? 

2. The exhihit I will carry to the County Fair next week. 

3. How shall I make my booklet better? 

4. Judging and scoring of exhibits of canned goods by girls. 

5. Planting plot for this winter with cover crops. 

NOVEMBER TOPICS. 

L Peanut butter: how I make it and use it. 

'2. What I saw at the County Fair. 

3. The plans I have for my winter garden. 

4. The care I am giving my canner and garden tools during the 

winter. 

DECEMBER TOPICS. 

1. Preparation for a happy Christmas. 

2. How I made pot holders for my mother's Christmas present. 

3. What we can use for ('hrislmas that we have learned from 

Club Work. 

4. Planting plot for this winter with cover crops. 

SUGGESTED PROGRAM FOR JOINT MEETING. 

(January as Example.) 

1. (Canning) How I start my plants. 

2. (Pig) Points to look for in selecting a pig. 

3. (Corn) Things to guide us in selecting our acre. 

4. (Potato) Preparing seed bed ami fertilization. 
.'). (Sheep and Calf) Managing. 

(). (Poultry) Is there a best variety for our club? 

7. Setting the date and place for next meeting, reading program 

for same. 
<S. Instructions by County Agents. 

Note. — The above program may be rendered witliin one and one-liaU' 
hours Ijy allowing ten minutes to eacli spealver on the regular program. 

HOW TO CONDUCT A MEETING. 

1. Meeting called to order by President. 

2. Roll call by Secretary (Members may answer by naming 

conmion birds, etc.) 

3. Reading and approval of minutes of last meeting. 

4. Unfinished business. 

5. New business (Report of difterent committees, especially 

membership). 
(). Rendering of regular program. 
7. Reports from individual members. 
S. Closing exercise. (Songs, yells, etc.) 
!). Motion to adjourn. 

22 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 
REFERENCE BULLETINS. 

FOR CORN CLUB. 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 229, "Production of Good Seed Corn." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 253, "Germination of Seed Corn." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 415, "Seed Corn." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 537, "How to Grow an Acre of Corn." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 729, "Corn Culture in Southeastern 
States." 

FOR COTTON CLUB. 
Farmers' Bulletin No. G25, "Cotton Wilt and Root Knot." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 555, "Cotton Anthracnose: How to 
Control It." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 601, "New Method of Cotton Culture, 
Its Application." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 512, "Boll Weevil Problem." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 501, "Cotton Improvement Under Wee- 
vil Conditions." 

FOR PEANUT CLUB. 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 431, "The Peanut." 

FOR PIG CLUB. 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 205, "Pig Management." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 379, "Hog Cholera." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 411, "Feeding Hogs in the South." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 438, "Hog Houses." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 566, "Boys' Pig Clubs." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 913, "Killing Hogs and Curing Pork." 
F"arniers' Bulletin, No. 906, "The Sclf-Feeder for Hogs." 
(circular No. 83, "Swine-.Iudging Suggestions for Pig Club 
Members." 

FOR CALF CLUB. 
Fanners Bulletin No. 639, "Eradication of Cattle Tick." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 580, "Beef Production in the South." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 612, "Breeds of Beef Cattle." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 655, "Cotton Seed Meal for Beef Pro- 
duction." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 777, "Feeding and Managing of Dairy 
Calves and Young Dairy Stock." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 811, "Production of Baby Beef." 

FOR SHEEP CLUB. 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 576, "Breeds of Sheep for the Farm." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 810, "Equipment for Farm Sheep 
Raising. 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 526, "Mutton and Its Value in the Diet." 

23 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Farmers' Bullein No. 840, "Farm Sheep Raising for Begin- 
ners." 

FOR POTATO CLUB. 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 295, "Potatoes and Other Root Crops 

as Food." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 324, "Sweet Potatoes." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 407, "The Potato as a Truck Crop." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 533, "Good Seed Potatoes and How to 

Produce Them." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 544, "Potato-tuber Diseases." 

FOR CANNING CLUB. 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 771, "Home Made Fireless Cookers and 

Their Use." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 808, "How to Select Foods: What the 

Body Needs." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 824, "How to Select Foods." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 817, "How to Select Foods." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 818, "Small Vegetable Gardens." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 256, "Preparation of Vegetables for the 

Table." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 391, "Economic I'se of Meats in the 

Home." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 34, "Meats: Composition and Cooking." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 841, "Drying Fruits and Vegetables in 

the Home." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 582, "Green Vegetables and Their Use 

in the Diet." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 807, "Bread Making." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 861, "Removal of Stains from Clothing 

and Other Textiles." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 505, "Turnips, Beets, and Other Suc- 
culent Roots and Their Use as Food." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 468, "Potatoes, Sweet Potatoes, and 

Other Starchy Roots." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 565, "Corn Meal as a Food, and Ways 

of Using It." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 647, "Home Gardens in the South." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 653, "Honey and Its Use in the Home." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 717, "Foods for Young Children." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 900, "Home Made Fruit Butters." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 734, "Fly Traps and Their Operation." 
Farmers' Bulletin No. 419, "Fats and Their Economic Use in 

the Home." 

F'armers' Bulletin No. 884, "Saving Vegetable Seed for the 

Home and Market Garden." 

24 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 850, "How to Make Cottage Cheese on 
the Farm." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 881, "Preservation of Vegetables by 
Fermentation and Salting." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 392, "Lesson on Tomatoes for the Rural 
Schools." 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 607, "Farm Kitchen as a Workshop." 

United States Food Leaflets (Secured from Food Adminis- 
trator). 

University of Arkansas Bulletin No. 116, "Varieties of Fruits 
in Arkansas." 

FOR POULTRY CLUB. 

Farmers' Bulletin No. 801, "Mites and Lice on Poultry." 



CLUB LESSON TOPICS BY MONTHS FOR 
TEACHER'S GUIDE. 

JANUARY. 

Pig — Circular No. 1. — Phases of the Work. 
Pig — Circular No. 2. — Selecting the Type. 
Corn — Circular No. 1. — Selecting the Acre. 
Corn — Circular No. 2. — Preparation of Seed Bed. 
Potato — Circular No. 1. — Soil: Its Preparation and Fertili- 
zation. 

Sheep — Circular No. 5. — Managing the Ewe and Lamb. 
Canning — Lesson No. 1.— Selecting the One-tenth Acre. 
Poultry — Lesson No. 1. — Instructions. 
Canning — Lesson No. 21. — Fireless Cooker. 

FEBRUARY. 

Pig — Circular No. 3. — Forage Crops. 

Corn — Circular No. 3. — Good Seed. 

Cotton — Circular No. 1. — Preparation of Seed Bed. 

Potato — Circular No. 2. — Selecting Seed and Planting. 

Canning— Lesson No. 2.— Starting the Plants; Making Hot- 
beds — Cold Frames. 

Poultry — Lesson No. 2. — Variety of Chickens; Nests. 

Canning — Lesson No. 28.— Use of Dried Fruits. (Make apple 
whip.) 

MARCH. 

Pig— Circular No. 4. — How to Make the Pig Grow. 

Corn — Circular No. 4. — Planting. 

Potato — Circular No. 3. — Cultivation. 

Calf — Circular No. 2. — Pastures. 

Sheep — Circular No. 2. — Feeding the Ewe and Lamb. 

Cotton— Circular No. 2. — Testing Seed and Planting. 

2& 



BCnS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Canning — Lesson No. 3. — Transplanting Tomatoes. 
Poultry — Lesson No. 3. — Chicken Houses ami Coops. 
Canning — Lesson No. 28. — Making Bread. 
Inspection of Record Books. 

APRIL. 

Corn — Circular No. 5. — Cultivation. 
Pig — Circular No. 5. — Pastures. 

Potato — Circular No. 3. — Saving Seed for Fall Crop. 
Peanut — Circular No. 1. — Preparation of Soil. 
Canning — Lesson No. 4. — Staking, Pruning, Cultivation. 
Poultry — Lesson No. 4. — F"eeds for Young Chicks. 
Canning — Lesson No. 30. — Yeast Bread — Scoring. 
Inspection of Record Books. 

MAY. 

Corn — Review Previous Lessons. 

Cotton — Circular No. 4. — Rules for Cotton Growing. 

Peanut — Circular No. 2. — Cultivation. 

Pig — Review previous lessons. 

Canning — Lesson No. 5. — Insects of Tomatoes. 

Canning — Lesson No. 6. — Diseases of Tomatoes. 

Canning — Lesson No. 7. — Other Vegetables for Garden. 

Canning — Lesson No. 8. — How to Make a Home-made Canner 

Poultry — Lesson No. 5. — Lice and Mites. 

Poultry — Lesson No. !).— Poullr\ Products. 

Inspection of Record Books. 

JUNE. 

Canning — Lesson No. 9. — Preparation for Canning in Tin. 

Canning — Lesson No. 10. — Steps Taken in Canning. 

Canning — Lesson No. 11 — Canning. 

Canning — Lesson No. 12. — Brining and Seasoning. 

Canning — Lesson No. 13. — ('anning in Glass. 

Poultry — Lesson No. 6. — Sununer Diseases of Chicks. 

Poultry — Lesson No. 9. — Egg Salads and Santlwiches. 

JULY. 

Canning — Same Lessons as for June. 

Canning — Lesson No. 14. — Preserving. 

Canning — Lesson No. 15. — Recipes, Figs, Marmalades, etc. 

Canning — Lesson No. 16. — Recipes, Pickles. 

Canning — Lesson No. 17. — Recipes, Pickles. 

Canning — Lesson No. 26. — Milk, Soups, etc. 

AUGUST. 

Canning — Lesson No. 18. — Drying — Making the Drier. 
Canning — Lesson No. 19. — Dried Vegetables and Fruits. 

26 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



Canning— Lesson No. 20.— Storing Dried Fruits and Vege- 
tables. 

Canning— Lesson No. 13.— Canning Peppers. 

SEPTEMBER. 

Corn— CircuLar No. 6.— Field Selection. 
Pig_Circular No. 7.— Score Card. 

Pig Circular No. 8. — How to Make a Crate. 

Sheep— Circular No. 4. — Management of Ewe in Fall and 
Winter. 

Wheat Circular No. 1.— Selecting Soil and Fertilizing. 

Wheat— Circular No. 2.— Planting. 

Peanut— Circular No. 2.— Harvesting, Curing, and Staking. 

Poultry — Lesson No. 7.— Fall Colds and Roup. 

Canning— Lessons No. 24 and 25.— Meat Substitutes. 

Canning — Lesson No. 27. — Sauces. 

Canning— Lesson No. 22.— Fall and Winter Gardens. 

Completing Record Books, all Clubs. 

OCTOBER. 

Corn— Circular No. 7.— Cover Crops. 
Corn— Circular No. 8.— Making Exhibits. 
Corn— Circular No. 1.— Selecting the Acre. 
Corn— Circular No. 2.— Preparation of Seed Bed. 
Pig_Circular No. 8.— Preparing Pig for Exhibit. 
Potato— Circular No. 5.— Selecting and .ludging Exhibits. 
Calf— Circular No. L— Selecting the Calf. 
Calf— Circular No. 2.— Pastures for Calf. 
Canning— Lesson No. 31.— Using Stored Vegetables. 

NOVEMBER. 

Pig_Circular No. 10.— Producing Strong Pigs. 
Sheep— Circular No. 1.— Selecting the Ewe or Lamb. 
Calf— Circular No. 3.— Grain Ration for Calf. 
Sheep— Circular No. 3.— Feeding the Ewe or Lamb. 
Canning — Lesson No. 23. — Peanut Butter. 
Canning— Lesson No. 27. — Hot Cocoa. 

DECEMBER. 

Pig — Circular No. 11. — Sow and Litter. 
Corn— Circular No. 8.— Judging Corn by Score Card. 
Calf — Circular No. 4. — Management. 

Canning— Lesson No. 29.— Poultry Products (Christmas 
dishes). 

Canning— Lesson No. 23. — Peanut Cookies. 

27 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

CORRELATION OF CLUB LESSONS WITH 
REGULAR STUDIES. 

While the matter of correlating the club lessons with the 
common school studies, such as language, arithmetic, etc., is one 
that will necessarily have to be left largely to the initiative of 
the individual teacher, yet possibly a few suggestions may be of 
help to some one, especially those who may not have attempted 
this phase of the work before, for, as stated in the introduction, 
it is hoped that this Manual may prove a help to the teacher in 
vitalizing not only the teaching of agricultural subjects but all 
school subjects. It seems evident that the teacher who is able to 
teach, as it were, agriculture in every subject that he teaches 
will be the one who is rendering the maximum service to his 
pupils and at the same time will be reaping for himself the 
greatest enjoyment in the work for, really and truly, he will be 
teaching in terms of the child's own daily life. 

Mention will be made here of only those common school 
branches with which the club lessons may be most easily cor- 
related. 

SPELLING. 

Select a list of words from the lesson sheets for different 
phases of club work occasionally for the lesson in spelling, 
words used on the farm, in the home, and in the garden in the 
growing of corn, pigs, tomatoes, etc. As the season advances, 
ditrerent words in connection with the same club activities may 
be used. Have pupils select from their lesson sheets words that 
are dillicull to spell. 

READING. 

Possibly the lesson sheets can occasionally be substituted 
for the regular reader. The idea in using the lesson sheets for 
reading lessons being to deterndne the pupil's ability to properly 
interpret the instructions. If the school has a supply of bulle- 
tins that pertain to the work which the boys and girls are doing, 
reading lessons may be given from such bulletins. If farm mag- 
azines are among the list of literature in the school library, read- 
ing lessons might also be taken from them. 

LANGUAGE. 

Any one who has gone through the common schools as a 
pupil or who has taught in same, knows how laborious compo- 
sition work appears to the average pupil. This is because the 
pupil has nothing to write about that is concrete. The club work 
furnishes an abundance of excellent material for composition 
work. For instance, how to start tomato plants in hotbeds or 
boxes; how they are caring for their chickens; how thev have 

28 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLU B MANUAL 

prepared their seed beds for corn, cotton, potatoes; how to 
build a tireless cooker and use it; how they are managing their 
pig, calf, or sheep; how they conduct their regular club meet- 
ings; how to write up the minutes of meetings; how they have 
profited from the club work, and many other suitable topics 
about the things that the boys and girls are actually doing. The 
writing of these compositions will bring into use common, every- 
day terms and phrases the boys and girls should know how to 
use and spell correctly. It affords a lesson in spelling, punctu- 
ation, etc., and, instead of composition work being the most 
dreaded part of the language study, it should become the most 
interesting, because boys and girls will be glad to tell how they 
are doing things that are profitable and worth while. 

ARITHMETIC. 

No subject finds more daily application in club work than 
Arithmetic. Problems may be taken from the following: 

(1) Measurement of the acre and ten-acre plots that may 
have different shapes. 

(2) Finding the number of tomato plants on one-tenth acre. 
Number of stalks of corn on one acre at different distances. 

(3) Finding the loss sustained from imperfect stands. 

(4) Ascertaining the cost of fertilizer and barnyard manure 
at different amounts per acre. 

(5) Ascertaining the cost of production of corn per bushel. 
Pork per pound. 

(6) Cost of making home-made canners, fireless cookers, 
seed box testers, hog houses, chicken houses, etc. 

(7) Amount and value of plant food removed from soil by 
corn, cotton, etc., of any yield. 

(8) Cost of preparing pasture for pig, calf, sheep. 

(9) Losses sustained from diseases and insects of plants and 
animals and cost of preventing same. 

Numerous problems can be made from the above and many 
other similar topics, by having the club members from the difTer- 
ent clubs give the information that applies to his or her partic- 
ular club. The chief value in the correlation with Arithmetic is 
that it brings up for solution those problems that confront the 
boys and girls in their everyday life, the really practical and 
useful problems. 

Is it not worth more to a farmer boy to know how to deter- 
mine the amount and value of plant food removed from soil by 
a 40-bushel yield of corn and how to replace that than it is to 
extract the cube root or even square root of a long row of 
figures? 

Is it not worth more to a girl to know the kind of feed to 
give her chickens so that they will lav the vear round, and how 

29 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

to prepare the eggs for the tabic, than it is to locate all the 
bays, gulfs, and sounds bounding a certain division of land? 

GEOGRAPHY. 

(1) Have pupils ilraw maps showing corn-producing States 
and then tell why. Compare the average yield of such States 
with tliat of Arkansas. With that of the Corn Club members. 
(See Year Book, or write for information.) 

(2) Have maps preiKircd showing hog-producing States, and 
compare those States with Arkansas. 

(3) Have the same kind of maps prepared for sheep and 
cattle. 

(4) Majxs showing those Stales that grow the most toma- 
toes, and why. 

(5) Draw maps of Arkansas showing the scope of club 
work. How does your county compare with other counties? 

(()) Draw map of your own community, your own farm, 
showing arrangement of houses. 

(7) Draw a model farm showing conveniently arranged 
buildings. 

(<S) Draw diagram of pig pastures, chicken yards, etc. 

(!)) Draw corn plant showing root-growth and development. 

(10) Draw tomato plant. 

Note to Teachers. — As to just how ;iik1 when the club lessons in this 
Manual are to be tauglit is largely up to the teachers. This Manual, however, 
is prepared for those teachers who take suflicient interest in the Boys' and 
(jrirls' C-lub Woi'k to have a large enougli enrollment of members in the va- 
.rious clubs so that they may give separate lessons on Club ^Vork once a week 
or once every two weeks, or as often as they see fit, just the same as they 
would give a lesson in Arithmetic, Geography, or any other su])ject. 



30 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR CLUB MEMBERS. 
BOYS' CLUBS. 

By W. J. JERNIGAX, 
State Boys' and Girls' Club Agent. 

CORN. 

Circular No. 1. — Corn. 

SELECTING AND FERTILIZING THE ACRE. 

Corn Club members in selecting their plot for their corn 
should keep in mind these points: 

Location. — It is best to have an acre joining another field of 
corn of the same variety rather than having it located to itself 
possibly near a strip of woods where it is liable to attack from 
stock breaking in, from squirrels, and from crows, etc. It mat- 
ters not about the shape of the plot just so it contains exactly 
4,(S40 square yards, or 43,560 square feet. 

Drainage. — There should be no part of the acre upon which 
water stands for any considerable length of time after a rain. 
Standing water excludes the air from the soil, makes the soil 
sour, renders the plant food useless and puts the soil in bad 
physical condition. All lands inclined to wash should be ter- 
raced to prevent the loss of plant food and the washing away of 
the seed. 

Uniformity. — The soil over the whole acre should be as 
nearly alike as possible. That is, you should not have land a 
part of which is sandy and part clay. Such a field cannot be 
cultivated to good advantage because the sandy soil could be 
cultivated almost iunnediately after a rain but the clay nuist be 
allowed to dry out, so if both kinds were in the tield you would 
either have to cultivate the clay when it is too wet or else let the 
sandy soil get too dry. 

Fertile Soil. — Corn requires a fertile, loamy soil, and if the 
plot selected is not of such character of soil, and many of them 
will not be, steps should be taken to make the soil as fertile as 
possible; hence the recommendations for the use of barnyard 
manure. 

Barnyard Manure. — Barnyard manure is valuable because it 
contains three of the main elements of plant food, nitrogen, phos- 
phoric acid, and potash. As a rule a ton of manure will contain 
10 pounds of nitrogen, 5 pounds of phosphoric acid, and 10 
pounds of potash, which, if purchased in the form of connnercial 
fertilizer will cost about .'?2.85. Barnyard manure is valuable 
because it contains hunuis, and as a rule a ton of barnyard ma- 
niu'e will contain about 500 pounds of humus. Humus is sim- 

31 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

ply decayed vegetable matter and gives life to the soil. It makes 
heavy soils more open and binds sandy soil more closely to- 
gether, enabling both to hold a larger amount of moisture. From 
10 to 20 tons per acre of well-rotted manure may safely be ap- 
plied, about 10 tons on sandy soils and a larger amount on heavy 
clay soils. The manure should be evenly distributed over the 
acre and worked well into the soil. 

Commercial Fertilizers.— If no barnyard manure can be se- 
cured, commercial fertilizer may be substituted, the following 
kinils and amounts being recommended: For soils of medium 
fertility, use 200 pounds of cotton seed meal and 200 pounds of 
acid phosphate. For very thin soils, use 250 pounds of cotton 
seed meal and 150 pounds of acid phosphate; for bottom land 
soil, use 150 pounds of cotton seed meal and 250 pounds of acid 
phosphate. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. ^Vhy is it a bad policy to have fields of different varieties 
of corn located near each other? 

2. How does poorly drained land affect the yield of corn? 
How remedy it? How may rolling lands be prevented from 
washing? Have you lands that are wet or that wash? 

3. Why is it necessary to have the entire field of corn of the 
same type of soil? 

4. What kind of soil produces the best yield of corn? 

5. What is the value of barynard manure? 

6. What advantages has it over connnercial fertilizer? 
Which do you use? 

Circular \o. 2. — Corn. 

PREPARATION OF SEED BED. 

The preparation of the seed bed for most soils should be be- 
gun in the fall or winter by breaking the land to a <lepth of 8 to 
10 inches. Sandy soils, however, should not be broken in the 
fall unless a cover crop is sown, and it is advised that a cover 
crop be sown on other soils as well as on sandy soils. 

Fall or winter breaking has these advantages: 

(1) It is done at that time of the year when work is not 
rushing. 

(2) The snows and winter rains will be absorbed to a 
greater depth instead of standing on the soil or washing the soil 
away. A larger amount of moisture is thus stored up for spring 
and summer use. 

(3) Fall broken land can be worked earlier in the spring 
because the surface will be drier. 

(4) Fall breaking is one of the best methods of combating 
corn insects, as it destroys their places of hibernation. 

32 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Fall broken land should be thoroughly disked and harrowed 
before planting. 

Land broken in the spring should not be at as great a depth 
as land broken in the fall. 

All spring plowed land should be harrowed the same day it 
is broken and if too dry, it should be harrowed both noon and 
night. 

Land should never be plowed when too wet to pulverize. 

If the land is not broken before spring, it is better to disk 
the land well before breaking in order to pulverize the furrow 
slice before it is out of reach of the harrow. Disking before 
breaking also keeps the land in good plowing condition longer 
and helps to retain a greater supply of moisture. 

A deep seed bed well supplied with moisture and well 
drained makes a big corn yield possible whether the sunnner 
proves too dry or too wet. 

No amount of cultivation after planting can make up for the 
lack of proper preparation. 

A properly prepared seed bed has these advantages: 

(1) It hastens germination of seetl. 

(2) It insures a more perfect stand. 

(3) Permits early cultivation after rains. 

(4) Provides more moisture in times of drouth. 

(5) Makes following cultivations easy. 
(0) Furnishes more food for the plants. 




A Demonstration in Seed Bed Preparation by County Agent and Corn Club Boys. 

33 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What arc the advantages of fall or winter breaking? 
Should all lands be broken in the fall or winter? 

2. Should land be broken as deep in the spring as in the 
winter? Why? 

3. Why harrow land the same day it is broken in the 
spring? Why not plow land when wet? 

4. What is the advantage of disking land before breaking? 

5. What are the advantages of a well-prepared seed bed? 
(i. How do you prepare your seed bed for corn? How do 

the fanners of your community prepare their seed bed for corn? 
7. Has it been your experience that it pays to have a well- 
prei)arcd seed bed? 



Circular No. 3. — Com. 

GOOD SEED. 

There is no one factor that has more to do with the making 
of good yields of corn than the seed you plant. It matters not 
how rich your soil may naturally be or how rich you may make 
it by the application of barnyard manure or commercial fertil- 
izer, or how thoroughly you may prepare your seed bed unless 
you have perfectly sound, well-matured seed, adapted to your 
own climate and soils, you cannot expect big yields. 

Poor seed means a poor stand; a poor stand means a small 
yield; a small yield means no profit; hence labor lost, or bad 
business. Everybody who has had experience in corn growing 
has also had experience in "replanting" corn. There's a reason 
for this having to replant and in nearly every case the reason is 
"poor seed." But you didn't know the seed was poor until you 
had planted and then it was too late. So every corn grower 
should use the utmost care in selecting his seed corn and in 
testing it for germination before planting. 

How to Test. — A simple method of testing seed corn is to take 
a box about the size of an ordinary cracker box, and cut it down 
to a depth of 4 inches; pack this full of sand or sawdust and 
divide it up into squares of about 2V2 or 3 inches each way by 
means of a twine string running each way and fastened to small 
nails in the edge of the box. This forms a sort of checkerboard 
arrangement. 

Each square should be numbered from 1 up; each ear of 
corn should be numbered to correspond with the sc[uare. Six 
kernels should be taken from each ear, two near the butt of the 
ear, two near the middle, and two near the tip, from dilTerent 
rows. Place these in the squares, the germ side up, and cover 
with a damp cloth ami place in a room with a temperature be- 
tween 50 and GO degrees. Keep there for six or seven days. The 

34 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 




Test, Don't Guess— A Good Way. 

cloth should be kept moist but not wet. The germination test 
then may be read. 

Those ears that do not show strong germination should be 
discarded. For instance, if two of the six kernels of any par- 
ticular ear do not show strong germination, I would discard that 
ear. Get perfect germination and that will mean a perfect stand. 
A perfect stand of corn, with other conditions being right, means 
large yields and large yields mean more profit. 

Now as to what variety you should grow: The Experiment 
Station at Fayetteville informs us as follows: 

For North and Northwest Arkansas the following varieties 
have proven good: White Wonder, Golden Beauty, Boone 
County White, and St. Charles White for soils of ordinary to 
good fertility; Johnson County White and Hildreth Yellow Dent 
for soils good to high fertility; Surcropper for soil medium to 
light fertility; Southern Beauty for soils of ordinary fertility; 
Mosby's Prolific for soils of ordinary to high fertility; Roberts' 
Red Cob for soils of high fertility. 

For East Central and South Arkansas the following varieties 
are recommended: White Wonder, Boone County White, St. 
Charles White for ordinary to good conditions, particularly in 
Northeast Arkansas; Johnson County White and Hildreth Yellow 
Dent for soils good to high fertility; Chisholm and Surcropper 
for soils ordinary to light fertility; Huffman for soils of high fer- 
tility; Southern Beauty for soils of ordinary fertility; Mosby's 
Prolific and Marlboro Prolific for soils ordinary to high fertility. 

If you desire to purchase any of the above varieties, write 
your County Agent. He has the names of men who have them 
for sale. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What has been your experience with poor seed? With 
good seed? 

2. Have you ever replanted corn? Whv? 

35 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

3. How may you know if your seed is good? Have you 
ever tested your seed before planting? Do the farmers of your 
community test their seed before planting? Do they always 
have a good stand? 

4. What does a poor stand of corn mean? Did you have a 
perfect stand on your acre? If you have only an 80 per cent 
stand of corn, what would be your loss in bushels if your acre 
could grow 0,000 stalks? 

5. What variety of corn is well adapted to your locality? 
W'hat kind do you use? What kind do the farmers around you 
use ? 

G. What part do you think good seed plays in the making of 
a big yield of corn? 

Circular No. J. — Corn. 

PLANTING CORN. 

Methods of Planting. — The first step to take in planting corn 
is to prepare a deep, well-pulverized seed bed. Good seed and 
proper cultivation cannot make up for the lack of a well-prepared 
seed bed. If the seed bed is properly prepared, the corn crop is 
at least half made when the corn is planted. 

Corn may be planted in checks or in the drill, but the drill 
method is most commonly practiced, and is hereby reconmiended. 

Whether you plant on a small ridge or the level, or in a 
"water furrow," depends upon the drainage of your land. If 
well drained, it should be planted nearly level, but if water is 
inclined to stand on the land, planting should be made on ridges 
just high enough to carry off the surplus water. If planted on 
land where damage is likely to occur from drouth, it is well to 
plant in a "water furrow," provided the rows do not run up and 
down the hill. As a general rule, it is reconnnended that corn 
be planted as nearly on the level as possible in order that labor 
saving implements may be used, and by the use of which more 
moisture may be retained in the soil. 

Spacing of Plants. — The spacing of the rows and the distance 
the corn is planted in the rows must be determined by the 
strength of the soil. A distance of SV- feet apart for the rows 
and from 15 to 24 inches apart in the drill is recommended for 
bottom land. Corn planted at this distance, 3V2 by 2 feet, should 
contain 6,222 stalks per acre. If each stalk produces one pound 
of grain, which it should do, a yield of 88 bushels will be ob- 
tained. On thinner soils the rows should be about 5 feet apart, 
and the corn about 15 to 20 inches apart in the drill. A row of 
cowpeas or peanuts may be planted in between the rows about 
the second cultivation of corn, which may be harvested or turned 
under for fertilizing value. 

Time of Planting. — No one can say just what date is best to 

36 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

plant in any locality. Do not plant, however, until your seed bed 
is in good condition and the ground is warm. A safe way is to 
watch the best corn growers of your community and plant when 
they begin to plant. 

Variety. — No one variety can be said to be the best. Local 
conditions, meaning climate and types of soil, will determine this. 
However, the following varieties are suggested: Surecropper, 
Johnson County White, Southern Beauty, ]\Iosby's Prolific, Has- 
tings' Prolific, St. Charles White, or any other variety, standard 
or native, that has proven good for your community, may be 
used. See recommendation in Circular No. 3. 

Arranging the Planter. — See that your planter is well ad- 
justed so that it will drop the corn regularly. Remove a few 
kernels from the butt and tip of the ear in order that all kernels 
may be nearly of the same size. Plant more than is needed, be- 
cause it is better to thin your corn than to have to replant. 
Remember the old saying, "One for the blackbird, one for the 
crow, one for the cutworm, and three for to grow." Work to 
get a perfect stand. Know the number of stalks on your acre 
and help each stalk to produce at least one good ear. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What method did you use in planting your corn? How 
do most farmers plant their corn? Does corn usually suft'er from 
drouths in your section? To what do you think it is due? 

2. At what distance did you plant your corn? How many 
stalks did you have on your acre? Did you have a perfect 
stand? About what was your loss in bushels from poor stand? 

3. What is the usual date for planting corn in your com- 
munity? About how long does it require for corn to mature? 

4. What make of planter do you use? Do you have trouble 
in getting your planter to work well. Does the size of the ker- 
nels have anything to do with regular planting? 

Circular No. 5. — Corn. 

CULTIVATION. 

By DEAN MARTIN NELSON. 

The preparation of the seed bed should be done so thor- 
oughly that cultivation after planting may be adjusted almost 
entirely to destroying weeds and keeping the soil fine and loose 
on the surface to prevent it from drying out. 

Kind of Implements. — The kind of implements used after 
planting is important. The blades of the old-style double-shovel 
cultivator are too large and should be used only in case that 
heavy rains, following planting, have beaten down the ground 
very hard. Then you will have to cultivate deeper than usual 
for one or two cultivations, and the double shovel should be 

37 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 




Showing the Distribution Corn Roots. 



used. Otherwise, avoid large shovels, and use a cultivator with 
medium or small size shovels. Begin as soon as possible after 
planting. The earlier the better. Cultivate close to the row. 
Try to cultivate every inch of the soil between rows and leave 
the soil on the surface as smooth as you can. 

When to Cultivate. — No one can tell you exactly how many 
times it will be necessary to cultivate throughout the summer. 
Your guide will have to be to cultivate frequently enough to keep 
the soil loose and weeds destroyed. It is very important to cul- 
tivate promptly after heavy rains, especially if the rain has been 
lasting. It will not do to cultivate when the soil is wet and 
sticky, but it is important to cultivate the very first hour that it 
is dry enough, in order that the hot sun and dry winds may not 
form a crust on the soil and carry away, by evaporation, a lot of 
moisture that would be kept in the soil for the crop. During this 
part of the year no one can tell when a spell of drouth will come. 
The best protection against drouth is to cultivate promptly when 
the soil is dry enough after each rain. 

How Late to Cultivate. — Do not stop cultivation because the 
corn gets as high as your head or higher. Keep on faithfully 
until the ears have reached considerable size. The crop needs 
your help most at the time, that is, in making the ear. If you will 
give the crop your best attention at that time, you will be far 
surer of making a good yield than by "laying by" earlier. 

How Deep to Cultivate. — The depth to which to cultivate is 
very important. Some cultivate too shallow and some too deep. 

38 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Do not make these mistakes. It is safe to cultivate 2 inches deep 
at all times. It is unsafe to cultivate shallower than this in mid- 
summer. As dry weather comes on, watch very closely to see 
whether the surface mulch you make is keeping the soil moist 
under it. If not, go a little deeper, for in time of drouth success 
depends entirely upon the looseness of the mulch. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. "Why do we cultivate? What will determine the kind 
of implement we should use? Is early cultivation necessary? 
Why? 

2. Is frequent cultivation necessary? Why? How deep 
should you cultivate? How deep, how early, how late, how fre- 
quent do you cultivate your corn? How late do the farmers 
around you cultivate their corn? 

3. How many times do the farmers usually cultivate their 
corn? Is it a safe rule to say that corn should be cultivated any 
certain number of times? What will determine the number of 
times corn should be cultivated? 

4. At what stage of growth does corn require the most plant 
food? Does late cultivation assist the plant in getting food? 
How? 

5. Is it a good practice to pull fodder? 

Circular No. 6. — Corn. 

FIELD SELECTION OF SEED CORN. 

Just as successful breeding and improving of live stock de- 
pends more upon the selection of the individual animal than 
upon the breed itself, so the successful breeding and growing of 
corn depends more upon the selection of the individual ear and 
the stalk from which the ear is grown than the variety of corn. 
It is true that the variety, like the breed, goes a long ways, but 
just as any breed can be taken and bred up to a high degree of 
efficiency, even so any variety of corn can be taken and likewise 
bred up to a high point as a yielder, and it is urged that Corn 
Club Boys use the same care and caution in selecting the seed 
corn as they do in selecting their pigs and calves. 

When to Select. — The proper time to select seed corn is in 
the fall before it is harvested, but after it is thoroughly matured. 
Desirable stalks, however, may be noted any time during the 
year and so marked as to know where to find them when the 
time comes to select the seed. It is very desirable to know the 
stalk that produces the ear just as you want to know the father 
or mother of a calf or pig you buy. Field selection gives one an 
opportunity to thus study the individual stalk. 

Desirable Ears. — The size of the ear will depend upon the 
variety of corn grown, but if some of the larger varieties are 

39 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 




The First Step in Making Big- Yields. 



grown, such as Johnson County White or Reid's Yellow Dent, 
the ears should he around 10 inches in length, nearly cylindrical 
in shape, that is, not too tapering, having straight rows of sound, 
bright, well-matured kernels of uniform shape, size, and color. 
The tip of the ear should be well covered with shuck and should 
hang point downward in order to shed the water. The size of 
the cob is an important feature to consider, and its diameter 
should be about half that of the diameter of the entire ear or the 
length of two kernels placeil end to end. This will give a good 
dei)tli to the kernels, a still more important feature to consider. 

Desirable Stalks. — A desirable stalk is one of medium height, 
somewhat broad at the base but tapering gradually to the top 
and having plenty of broad blades. It should be entirely free 
of smut or other diseases, and should not be so located as to 
have advantage over other stalks for growing or developing. It 
should also be free of suckers and should bear its ears about 4 
feet from the ground, as ears at that height are in easy reach for 
gathering and are not inclined to pull the stalk down during 
windstorms. 

Storing. — After the corn is selected, it should be shucked and 
stored in a dry, well-ventilated place, free from rats and mice. 

40 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 




A Bushel of Corn Safely and Cheaply Stored. 



A very simple way is to 
bind the ears together 
with binders' twine and 
hang in the attic. About 
12 or 15 ears are suflicient 
for an acre, but many 
times this amount should 
be selected for future use 
or sale. Let field selec- 
tion of seed corn become 
a habit. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Has field selection 
of seed corn any advant- 
age over "crib" selection? 
Why? 

2. Do you select your 
seed in the field? Do the 



farmers around you select their seed in the field? 

3. What kind of stalks do you look for in selecting your 

corn ? 

4. What is a barren stalk? Have you observed barren 
stalks in the field? Is it wise to select from stalks that are near 
barren stalks? 

5. What kind of ears do you look for? How do you want 
the ear to hang on the stalk? Why? 

6. How many ears would you select for an acre? What is 
a good method for storing seed corn? How do you store yours? 

Circular No. 7.— Corn. 

SOIL IMPROVEMENT.— WINTER COVER CROPS. 

IMPORTANCE OF WINTER COVER CROPS. 

(1) Prevents loss of fertility by washing and also evapora- 
tion where lands are left bare during the fall and winter. 

(2) Gives valuable grazing to stock at a time 'when it is 
most needed. 

(3) Adds humus, the great essential to the life of any soil, 
improves mechanical condition of soil by filling it full of veg- 
etable matter, which helps to hold moisture in time of drouth and 
prevents packing in time of excessive rains. 

(4) Such crops are net gains as they feed upon the elements 
that would be carried from the fields by heavy washing rains. 

KIND OF WINTER COVER CROPS. 

The most suitable crops to plant are rye, oats, wheat, vetch, 
crimson clover, and bur clover. Local conditions must determine 
which is best in particular cases. 

41 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



Rye. — Possibly rye should receive first mention, as it can be 
grown in almost any climate and soil, and will not winter-kill as 
do some of the other crops mentioned. Then, too, the period of 
time in which rye may be sown is very long, running from about 
the first of September to the first of December. Rye can be sown 
in cotton middles during September or October and harrowed in 
with one-horse harrow. One bushel per acre is recommended. 
If soil is adapted, one-fourth bushel of hairy vetch and three- 
fourths bushel of rye can be sown together. 

Oats. — Where there is little danger of winter-killing, oats is 
sometimes preferable to rye. Oats make good growth and are 
jjreferred by stock for grazing. The oats should be sown as 
early in the fall as possible in order that they may get a good 
start before cold weather comes. One and one-half bushels per 
acre alone, or one bushel of oats and one-fourth bushel of vetch 
mixed, make a good combination. A good turf oat should be 
sown. 

Wheat. — AVheat may be used in very much the same manner 
as recommended for rye or oats. 

Clover and Vetches. — More precaution will have to be used 
with clover and vetches than with the crops above mentioned. 
There must be a thorough preparation of seed bed, and the seed 
should be inoculated. There are two w'ays of inoculating: 

(1) By scattering soil from field where clover has been suc- 
cessfully grown over the ground to be inoculated for clover, or 
by scattering soil from ground where the I-^nglish pea or garden 
pea has been successfully grown for vetch. 

(2) Regular inoculating material may be secured for clover 
and vetch from the I)ei)artment of Agriculture. (Ask your 
(bounty Agent at once about inoculating your clover or vetch 
seetl.) Planting should be done as soon as danger of smnmer 
killing is over. The month of September is the best time. 

AMOUNT OF SEED REQUIRED PER ACRE. 

Crimson Clover. — 20 i^ounds per acre should be sown in cot- 
ton middles in the same manner as rye. 

Bur Clover. — 30 pounds in the bur or 15 pounds clean seed 
I)er acre. Clean bur clover seed must be inoculated. Soils from 
alfalfa or sweet clover fields will inoculate bur clover. 

Hairy Vetch. — 30 i)Ounds per acre when sown alone, or 15 
pounds when sown with oats, wheat, or r> o. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What is meant by a winter cover crop? What crop is 
usually used as such? 

2. What is the advantage of winter cover crops? Did you 
use a cover crop on your acre? Do the farmers around you have 
cover crops? What kind? 

42 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

3. What advantage do the clovers and vetches have over 
such crops as rye, oats, and wheat as a cover crop? 

4. What is the chief tiling added to the soil when cover 
crops are turned under. 

5. What does humus do for the soil? 

6. Do you plant peas or any other legumes in your corn? 
How do you dispose of the legumes? 

7. Do you burn your corn stalks? Do the farmers around 
you burn theirs? Is it a good practice? If not, why? 

Circular No. 8. — Corn. 

SELECTING EXHIBITS.— SCORE CARD. 

Corn Club boys are urged to select ten good ears from their 
acre and exhibit at their County Fair or Contest in the fall. In 
selecting the exhibits, the following points regarding the ear 
should be kept in mind: 

KIND OF EARS TO SELECT. 

(1) From 9 to 11 inches in length. 

(2) With circumference at point one-third of distance from 

butt to tip, three-fourths of length. 

(3) With cob having diameter about one-half that of ear. 

(4) With straight rows filled with wedge-shaped kernels of 

the same color, six to the inch. 

(5) With well-filled tips and butts. 




An Undesirable Ear. Poor Butt and Tip and Irregular Kernels. 

43 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 




A Desirable Ear. iioad iiutl. (iood Tip, Good Deptii and Unifoiniity of kernel. 



SCORE CARD FOR JUDGING CORN. 

(1) I'nifonuity of exhibit 10 

(2) Shape of ear 10 

(3) Color of cob 5 

(4) Color of kernels 5 

(5) Market condition 10 

(6) Tip of ears 5 

(7) Butt of ears 5 

(8) Uniformity of kernels 10 

(9) Shape of kernels 5 

(10) Proportion of corn on cob 15 

(11) Space between kernels 10 

(12) Weight of grain 10 

Total 100 

STANDARD WEIGHT IN GRAIN OF EARS ACCORDING TO LENGTH. 

Ears 12 inches and over should weigh 17.0 oz. 

Ears from 11 to 12 inches should weigh 15.0 oz. 

Ears from 10 to 11 inches should weight 14.0 oz. 

Ears from t) to 10 inches should weigh 13.0 oz. 

Ears from 8 to 9 inches should weigh 11.5oz. 

Ears from 7 to 8 inches should weigh 9.5 oz. 

Ears from G to 7 inches should weigh 8.0 oz. 

44 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURALOAJB MANUAL 




Result of One Year's Work in Corn Club in South Franklin County. 
RULES FOR JUDGING EXHIBITS OF CORN. 

Uniformity of Exhibit.— Ears similar in size, shape, color, 
and indentation. For each ear deficient in these respects, cut 
exhibit one point. 

Shape of Ear.— Usually cylindrical but slowly tapering from 
butt to tip. Cut each ear one point that fails in above points. 

Color of Cob.— Cobs should be red in yellow corn and white 
in white corn except those varieties of white corn that have red 
cobs. Cut one-half point for cobs off in color. 

Color of Kernels.— For each kernel in yellow or red corn, 
cut one-half point and likewise for red or yellow kernels in 
white varieties. 

Market Conditions.— Ripe, sound, bright, ears, firm and well 
matured. For each ear deficient in these respects, cut exhibit 
one point. 

Tips of Ears.— Not too tapering, well filled with uniform 
kernels. Add together length of protruding cobs on tips of all 
ears and cut one-half point for each inch. 

Butt of Ears.— Rows should extend in regular order over 
butt. Cut one-half point for poorly filled butts and one-fourth 
point for flat butts. 

Kernel Uniformity.— Kernels should be uniform in shape, 
size, and color. Cut each ear one point failing in above points. 

Kernel Shape.— Wedge shape, straight edge, large germ. Cut 
each ear one point failing in these points. 

Space Between Kernels.— Furrows between rows should be 
small. Cut one-half point for space over one-sixteenth of an 

inch. 

Proportion of Corn on Cob.— Should be 85 per cent in weight. 
For every per cent above 85, add one point, and for every per 
cent below 85, cut one point from exhibit. 

45 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Weight of Grain. — Get average length of ears, use weight of 
grain in above point. For each ounce below number required 
by ear of given length, cut one point, and for each ounce above, 
add one point. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. How many ears usually constitute an exhibit? 

2. What constitutes a good exhibit? 

3. What is meant by "Uniformity" of exhibit? 

4. Name the points to be considered in judging corn? Give 
the value of each. 

5. W'hat is meant by the standard weight of ears? 

Note. — Pupils should bring sample ears to school, and there judge by 
the score card. 

Circular No. 9. — Machinery. 

CARE OF FARM MACHINERY. 

By V. H. KERN. 

The loss due to improper care of farm machinery on the av- 
erage farm is tremendous, cutting down the farmers' yearly sav- 
ings, reducing the efficiency of the implements and increasing the 
piles of discarded tools throughout the country. W'eakened parts 
of the implements due to rusting and rotting break when a strain 
is placed on them and, as a result, the repair bill is increased, to 
say nothing of the time lost and farm work delayed while repairs 
are being sent for. .. 

Farm machinery is to be considered a necessary investment 
from a business standpoint. Economy means management with- 
out loss or waste, and only when the most strict economy is prac- 
ticed will the highest possible dividends be obtained from the 
implements used on the farm. Lengthening the life and efiiciency 
of the implement is the most practical method for increasing this 
dividend. 

Sun, rain, and snow — these forces all combine to rust and 
rot machinery, and as chemical action takes place faster at 
higher temperatures, Arkansas' conditions are peculiarly adapted 
to rapid deterioration of unhoused and uncared-for implements. 
Since this is true, best protection can be obtained by housing, 
painting, and oiling each tool. 

An implement shed can be built simply, cheap and durable of 
wood at such a cost that the farmer would be saved from four to 
six times the cost of the shed, and if it is kept well painted, it 
will last almost indefinitely. If it is impossible to house the ma- 
chinery, it is especially necessary that liberal coats of paint and 
oil be applied at the close of the season's work. 

Things You Should Do. — All working parts should be cleaned 
and oiled at the close of the season's work. Plow bottoms, cul- 
tivator shovels, disk harrow blades, planter and grain drill fur- 

46 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 






, 1 







Wl>J^'pWl.l,. i i.i. iuii.iiiimJiMuii i iuuir 



4#- 









>r 



tj 







J: 







- ./ 



-'^^ ^ ^\ 



47 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

row openers should be painted to prevent rusting. A good com- 
bination is made by mixing axle grease and lubricating oil until 
a thick paint is obtained. A liberal application of this keeps 
moisture away from the metal wearing parts and thus prevents 
rusting. When paint is knocked from the wood or metal parts 
of the machine, it should be repainted. 

In the implement shed, disk harrows, the disks of the grain 
drill, and the planter furrow openers should be placed on boards. 
During early winter all implements should be looked over for 
defective parts, loose or lost bolts. A few minutes devoted to 
repair work at this time may save many dollars the coming 
spring. 

Keep Tools Sharpened.— It is useless to attempt to do good 
work with dull tools. The plow share must be sharpened prop- 
erly and kept that way, and likewise the disk harrow. Sharpen 
the disk harrow at least once a year, or, better still, when it 
needs it. Sharpen the teeth of the harrow to a point. Graphite, 
instead of lubricating oil, may be best for the smoothing roller 
if it squeaks, and oiling is difficult. If commercial fertilizer is 
used in the grain drill, clean thoroughly when finished to prevent 
corroding. Keep cultivator shovels sharp. Keep the spreader 
repaired, keep its working parts cleaned, and do not allow too 
much accumulation in the winter when freezing takes place. 

Proper care, housing, paint, oil, and grease are essential to 
long life and efficiency of farm implements. 

COTTON. 

Circular No. 1. — Cotton. 

PREPARATION OF THE SEED BED, AND FERTILIZATION. 

By W. C. LASSETTER. 

If the soil is to produce good cotton, it must be well pre- 
pared. All land for cotton should be flat broken, one inch deeper 
than it was the year before. This should be done early in order 
that the ground may have from three to five weeks in which to 
settle and become firm. The surface of the ground should be 
reworked before planting with a section harrow in order to 
prevent a crust from forming and to destroy young weeds and 
grass. 

"To Bed or Not to Bed." — Well-drained land should not be 
bedded, as a rule, but if you feel that it is necessary to bed such 
lands, do not throw the beds more than three or four inches high. 
Poorly drained lands should be bedded as high as possible with 
ordinary tools at hand. After the land is bedded it should be 
allowed to stand about two weeks before planting. Just ahead 
of the planter, run over the bed with a harrow in order to 
smooth and pulverize the tops of the beds. If planting is delayed 

48 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANITAT. 



longer than two weeks after bedding, the harrowing should be 
repeated. Preparing the land early and harrowing at intervals 
at from seven to ten days for three or four weeks before planting 
will make the crop grow^ off faster and will make it much easier 
to keep free from grass and weeds. 

Fertilizing the Acre.— Apply ten tons (ten good loads) of 
barnyard manure and 300 pounds of 16 per cent acid phosphate 
per acre broadcast and disk or harrow it immediately. In the 
event only three or five tons of manure can be secured, lay off 
the rows with a good large shovel plow and distribute the ma- 
nure and acid phosphate in the furrow. Follow with a bull 
tongue and 8- or 10-inch heel sweep run in the bottom of the 
furrow to mix the fertilizing materials with the soil. Bed on 
this and allow it to settle for about two weeks before planting, 
as suggested above. 

Commercial Fertilizers.— If barnyard manure is not avail- 
able, connnercial fertilizers may be substituted. For just average 
soils, thoroughly mix 250 pounds of cotton seed meal and 250 
pounds of 16 per cent acid phosphate. Apply in the drill pre- 
vious to bedding. For good soils, mix 200 poun<ls of cotton seed 
meal and 300 pounds of acid phosphate. On rich soils, apply 
300 pounds of acid phosphate. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Is it good practice to plant cotton on a loose seed bed? 

2. What will determine whether you plant on the level or 
on small ridges? 

3. What practice do you follow? What are your results? 

4. What implements do you use in preparing your seed bed, 
and why? 

5. Wliat is the best kind of fertilizer for cotton? Why? 
What kind do you use? 

6. What has been your experience with commercial fer- 
tilizer for cotton? 

7. Do the farmers of your community sow cover crops in 
cotton middles? 

Circular No. 2.— Cotton. 

TESTING SEED AND PLANTING. 

By W. C. LASSETTER. 

For the germination test, use two old plates and a piece of 
absorbent cloth, such as an old towel or strip of cloth torn from 
an old worn bed sheet. Go to the seed pile, take a few seed from 
the bottom of the pile, a few from the central part, and some 
from the top, mix these samples thoroughly and count out from 
that mixture one hundred seed, taking them just as you come to 
them. Place one end of the cloth over one of the plates wet it 

49 



BOYS' AND GIRLS ' AGRICUL TURAL CLUB MANUAL 

down and scatter the hundred seed over it. Press the seed down 
so that every one will touch the cloth, then turn the other end of 
the cloth over this, wet it and press it down so that it touches 
every seed on the plate. Wet the cloth and seed well, but do not 
leave enough moisture so that the water will run ofT the plate 
when it is tipped up. Turn the other plate bottom-side up over 
this and put the test in a warm place for about eight or ten days. 

If the weather should turn cool, it would be well to place 
this tester in the corner of the kitchen near the stove in order 
that the seed may not get too cold at night. Examine every day 
ami add enough water to keep the cloth soaked. After eight or 
ten days the seed will have sprouted, and when the majority of 
them have produced sprouts from 2 to 2V:i inches long, they will 
then be ready to count, ('ount the number of seed having good 
long sprouts. If as many as ninety out of the hundred seed have 
good long sprouts, you may know that the seed will do for plant- 
ing purposes. If between seventy and ninety have strong 
sprouts, it would be safer to increase the rate of planting. If 
fewer than seventy seed have strong sprouts, do not use those 
seed for planting purposes. 

Methods and Rate of Seeding. — Cotton rows should be from 
three to four feet apart — wider on rich bottom land than on poor 
upland. Unless the soil is sandy or well drained, it is safer to 
plant cotton on low beds rather than level. The use of a planter 
which covers the seed one to two and a half inches deep is 
cheai)er and better than hand planting. If the beds have not 
been made long enough for them to have settled, a planter with 
a roller attachment will generally give best results. Two or 
three pecks of selected seed shouUl be used on each acre if they 
are dropped in hill, but if drilled, three to five pecks per acre 
is safer. More seed is needed on poorly drained or heavy soils 
than on well-drained, light soils. 

Time to Plant. — Cotton recjuires warm weather for rapid 
growth. It is not safe to plant it until 15 or 20 days after the 
average date of the last killing frost in the locality. The safest 
plan is to plant when the successful planters of the connnunity 
begin to plant. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. How would you test cotton seed for germination? Have 
you ever tested? 

2. How much cotton is commonly recjuired per acre? 

3. What method do you use in seeding? Do you get good 
stands? 

4. Does it pay to plant early? Why? 

5. What variety of cotton is usually planted in your com- 
munity? 

50 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Circular No. 3. — Cotton. 

CULTIVATION. 

By W. E. AYRES. 

The First Cultivation. — The first cultivation should be given 
soon after planting. A section harrow or weeder should be run 
diagonally across the rows just before the plants are up. If the 
land is stumpy or otherwise rough, a V-Harrow with the front 
tooth removed may be run along the row instead of using the 
section harrow- or weeder. The harrow or weeder should be 
used again in the same way as mentioned above just after the 
plants are up and green. A few days after the second harrow^- 
ing, the rows should be cultivated with the side harrow attach- 
ment of a two-horse cultivator, a spring tooth harrow, or with 
a small sweep or other small plow on an ordinary stock. A 
fender is desirable with either of the above implements. The 
object of these early operations is to conserve moisture and kill 
grass and weeds before the cotton is thinned and thus avoid 
expensive hoeing. 

Thinning. — As soon as the grass, covered in the above opera- 
tion, has died, the cotton should be thinned to a stand, consisting 
of 10 to 12 thousand plants per acre. One plant every 12 to 16 
inches, or two plants every 20 or 30 inches in the drill is about 
right. 

Cultivating After Thinning. — Immediately after thinning — 
or in fair weather — as soon as the grass which was removed dur- 
ing the thinning operation has died — soil should be thrown 
around the remaining plants to support them and protect their 
roots from the sun. This may be done with the same implements 
as recommended for the first operation after harrowing. How- 
ever, if the soil is heavy and has been packed by heavy rains 
after planting, it may be desirable at this time to cultivate deeper 
with small shovels on a cultivator or ordinary stock, using a 
fender in either case so as to prevent covering the plants. All 
later cultivation shoukl be shallow. Two-horse cultivators with 
small shovels, sweeps or spring tooth attachments; spring tooth 
harrows; or ordinary stocks with sweeps or short shovels with 
heel scraper or sweeps may be used. As the plants become larger, 
larger cultivating plows may be used. After the cotton is too 
large for the use of two-horse cultivators, a short shovel or 
scooter and a large heel sweep or scraper may be used on the 
ordinary stock. 

How Often to Cultivate. — Cultivate as soon as the soil is 
dry enough after each rain, and often enough in dry weather 
to keep down weeds and grass and to preserve a layer of linely 
pulverized soil, called a mulch, on the surface to conserve mois- 
ture. A cultivation once every seven to ten days is a very good 
rule. 

51 



BOYS' AND (;iRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

How Late to Cultivate. — Cotton is a plant which continues 
fruiting until frost, and should never be nuitle to compete with 
weeds or grass for plant food or moisture. Shallow cultiva- 
tion with sweeps or heel sweeps may well be continued until 
the lirst bolls open. 

Hoeing. — Hoeing is expensive and should be avoided as nuich 
as possible by proper cultivation with horse-drawn implements. 
It is necessary to thin cotton with a hoe, but after this is done, 
the hoe should not be used except to remove large weeds and 
grass. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. How early should cotton be cultivatetl? 

'2. What im])k'ments would you use? 

3. What advantage has the section harrow in cultivation of 
cotton? 

4. What is your method of thinning cotton? What is the 
cheajjesl method? 

5. How many times do you hoe >our cotton? 

(). Do you consider hoeing cotton an expensive operation? 

7. How often do you cultivate? How deep? How late? 

8. Are there good reasons for late cultivation? Wliat is 
your experience? 

t^irciihir No. I. — Cottdii. 

RULES FOR COTTON GROWING. 

1. Plow Early, Let Soil Settle. — Flat break land one inch 
deeper than usual at least 30 days before planting. 

2. Make Good Seed Beds. — Well-<lrained land should be 
planted flat. Poorly drained land should be bedded high enough 
to carr.\ off the surj^lus water. 

.'{. Use Well-Drained, Warm Soil. — It hastens germination. 
Insures good stand. Makes rapid growth of jjlants. 

4. Plant as Early as Soil is Warm. — About 15 or 20 ilays 
after the average date of the last killing frost. 

5. Plant Early Fruting Varieties. — Cleveland Big Boll 
(Wananiaker) is early, yields well, and resists disease. Mebane 
Triumph and Rowden yield well but are not so early and are not 
so resistant to disease. Trice, Kings and Simpkins are extremely 
early, yield well, but have small bolls, fall out badly, anil are 
very susceptible to diseases. 

(). Use Plenty of Seed. — From three to five pecks on well 
drained soil. From six to eight pecks on poorly drained soil. 

7. Do Not Thin Too Much. — Leave from 12 to 1(5 inches in 
the drill. 

<S. Harrow Before and After Cotton Is Up. — Use section har- 
row crosswise the rows in both cases, or if the land is stumpy, 
use V-Ilarrow with front tooth removed on top of the row. 

52 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

9. Cultivate Often Until August. — Cotton grows until frost. 
Cultivate every eight or ten days and after each rain as soon as 
ground is dry and continue this until late sunnuer. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Name the nine rules for cotton growing. 

2. What rule or rules stand first in your opinion? 

3. Did you try to follow these rules? Does it pay? 



PEANUT. 

Circular No. 1. — Peanut. 

GROWING SPANISH PEANUTS. 

(Fanners' Bulletin 431.) 

Selecting and Preparing Soil. — Select a piece of well drained, 
sandy loam soil that is well supplied with vegetable matter and 
humus. If sandy loam soil is not available, use the lightest soil 
you have. Plow the land six or eight inches deep during the 
winter or early spring and put the soil in the best possible con- 
dition by discing, harrowing and dragging or rolling. Harrow 
the soil every ten days or two weeks up to planting time to kill 
the weeds. This will lessen the work of cultivation and hoeing. 

Time and Methods of Planting. — Plant peanuts in the spring 
after all danger of frost is past and the soil has become warm. 
As a rule, it is safe to plant them a little later than corn or beans. 
Plant the Spanish peanut about six to eight inches apart in the 
row with about thirty inches between the rows. The seed should 
not be shelled but it might be better to soak them in water from 
24 to 48 hours before planting, but be sure to plant immeiliately 
after soaking. They may be planted by hand or with a one- 
horse planter which will drop the pod at the desired distance, 
if the machine is properly regulated. When planting by hand, 
open the furrow with a small turning plow or a single shovel 
plow, and after dropping the seed, cover to the depth of 1 U- to 2 
inches, depending upon the character of the soil. On a heavy soil, 
cover about IV^ inches and on a light and sandy soil cover P/- to 
2 inches deep. It will require 1 Vl- to 2 bushels of peanuts to i)lant 
an acre at the distance suggested. 

Cultivation.^ — The cultivation of the peanut crop should be- 
gin soon after planting. A one-horse weeder or a light section 
harrow may be used cross-wise the rows to break up the crust 
and kill the small weeds before the peanuts come up. After 
they are large enough so the rows can be followed, a snuill tooth 
cultivator shoukl be used. Frequent shallow cultivation should 
be given to keep the soil loose and to prevent the loss of moisture. 

During later cultivations, it is desirable to cultivate deeper 
and to work the soil toward the rows to provide loose soil in 

53 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

which the pods may form. After the pods begni to form, culti- 
vation should cease except in the middle. The old idea that the 
blossom should be covered is an erroneous one. The pegs which 
later develop into pods will push their way down into the soil 
if plenty of loose earth is provided. As a general rule, it is best 
to use a light cultivator rather than turning plow or sweep. If 
weeds or grass become very troublesome it may be necessary 
to use a sweep, but, if possible, keep the soil stirred and prevent 
the growth of weeds. It is often necessary to use a hand hoe 
to keep the weeds and grass down in the row. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What kind of soil is best adapted to growing peaunts? 

2. Is there an advantage in having a well prepared seed bed 
for peanuts? 

3. \Vhat methods are recommended for planting? And 
when? 

4. What variety is used in your locality? Any special rea- 
son for this variety? 

5. What kind of implements do you use in cultivating your 
peanuts? Why? 

6. Is it necessary to cover the blossom with soil? 

Circ-ular No. 2. — Peanut. 

HARVESTING PEANUTS. 

(Farmers' Bulletin I'M.) 

Digging. — Peanuts are usually rea<ly for digging when the 
vines turn yellow and the lower leaves begin to fall off, but this 
is not always the case. It is a good plan to pull up a few hills, 
over the field, and examine the pods to see if they are well- 
filled. There is a tendency among beginners to dig peanuts 
before they are mature, but this should be avoided. When the 
crop is dug too soon, the percentage of "pops" or unfilled pods 
is large and the nuts shrivel up, thus making an inferior product. 
A few of the early nuts will sometimes sprout long before the 
main portion of the crop is matured, but it is better to sacrifice 
those than to harvest too early. 

Wlien peanuts are grown on a small scale, they are some- 
times pulled by hand, but this is not a desirable method as most 
all of the roots, with the nitrogen nodules, are removed. The 
plants should be dug in such a way that a large portion of the 
root is left in the ground. One of the simplest implements is 
the conunon turning plow with the mold board removed to pre- 
vent covering the plants. If the share is sharp and the plow is 
properly regulated the root can be cut off at any desired depth. 

Another simple digger consists of a U-shaped bar or steel at- 
tached to a Georgia plow stock. The bar is sharpened on the 

54 



_ BOYS' AND GIRL S' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

front edge and 4 to 5 iron fingers are attached to the back edge 
to separate the vines from the soil. This implement can he regu- 
lated to cut off the root whenever desired. Probably the best 
digger is the regular peanut digger which is made on the same 
principle as the potato digger. The potato digger is satisfactory 
if the seat bars are made longer and placed farther apart so 
as to allow the vines to pass over the elevator without clogging. 
By means of a lever attached to the digging point, the machine 
can be regulated so as to run any depth desired. 

Curing and Stacking. — After the peanuts are dug, they should 
be left lying on the ground for a few hours or just long enough 
to wilt. This will ordinarily require from 2 to hours, depend- 
ing upon the weather conditions. When the vines have wilted 
they are shaken from the soil and taken up by hand or a fork 
and piled in a circle around the stacking pole. This circle should 
be large enough to allow the stacker plenty of room to work. 
The poles used should be about 7 feet long and large enough to 
support a small stack. Set the poles between the peanut rows and 
bring up 5 or 6 rows of peanuts to each stack row. Put the 
poles in the ground about 15 to 18 inches deep and nail on two 
crosspieces 8 to 10 inches from the ground. These pieces may 
be any scraps of lumber 12 to 18 inches in length. Start the 
stack by dividing a few bunches of peanuts and hanging them 
over the ends of the crosspieces. This keeps the nuts off the 
ground and the stack high in the middle, insuring drainage off of 
the water. The vines are stacked with the nuts to the pole so 
as to prevent weathering of the pods and injury by birds. Near 
the top of the pole the stack is drawn to a point and capped with 
a bunch of grass or weeds. 

In some sections the vines are allowed to cure on the ground 
and then raked up into piles and stacked in much the same way 
as cowpea hay is cured. This is bad practice because the nuts 
dry out too quickly, causing them to shrivel, and those on the 
outside of the stack turn black. For a first-class product the nuts 
must cure slowly and without exposure to the weather. Stack- 
ing by hand, as described, is the best method and should be fol- 
lowed when the nuts are intended for market. 

Saving Seed Peanuts. — It is a good plan to select the seed for 
the next season's planting at the time the peanuts are dug. 
Select vines with a large number of well-filled pods, clustered 
close around the base of the plant. A spreading plant, with pods 
along the branches, usually has a large percentage of "pops" or 
poorly filled pods. Stack the seed peanuts separately antl pick 
off the nuts by hand to prevent cracking or breaking of the pods. 
Store the seed in a dry place, preferably where there is no 
danger of freezing. 

Picking and Threshing. — The peanuts should be allowed to 

55 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

stay in the stack for four or five weeks before being removed 
from the vines. During this period the nuts are curing slowly 
and witliout shriveling or moulchng. The hay is also of more 
value when cure<l in this way. In removing peanuts from the 
vines three methods are employed, hand picking is still followed 
when a small acreage is grown, but under most conditions a 
machine should be used. 

In Virginia a peanut picker (a machine designcil especially 
for this purpose) is most generally used. There are several 
types of pickers on the market and it is a (|uestion of choice as 
to which one to use. As a rule the type of machine alread\ in 
use in the conmiunity will have to be employed by the club mem- 
bers. The ordinary grain thresher, with a special cylinder for 
peanuts, is also used in some sections. Whatever methotl is used, 
it is important to have the nuts removed with as little breaking 
of the pods as possible and to have the nuts well cleaned. 

After removing the nuts from the vines they should be re- 
cleaned if much dirt and trash is found. Place the nuts in stand- 
ard peanut bags which hold about four bushels of Spanish nuts. 
These bags should be clean and uniform in size and shape. 
Store the peanuts in a <lr\ building away from mice and rats 
until ready for market. Do not put the nuts on the market dur- 
ing the rush of the selling season as the price is usually low at 
that time. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What is a good indication for time to harvest? 

2. What method is commonly used in harvesting? 

3. What is the cheapest way to harvest peanuts? 

4. W^hat is the best method for curing? W^hy? 

5. How man,\ wa>'s may peanuts be used? 

('). How is the i)eanut crop disposed of in your communit> ? 

POTATO. 

Circular No. 1. — Potatoes. 

KIND OF SOIL. 

By .J. S. KNOX. 

The potato thrives on a great variety of soils, but is at its 
best on the well drained sandy loams. In the great potato 
section of the Northern United States, we find them growing to 
perfection in the okl glacial drift soils. Such soils are usually 
rich in plant food and they seem especially well titled to potato 
growing. In the South, however, the soil most generally planted 
to potatoes is the rather light sandy loams. Such soils are to 
be found in the Atlantic and (iulf Coast States, and every year 
thousands of acres of this land are used for growing early crops 
of potatoes for the Northern market. These sandy soils warm 
up and can be worked earlv in the spring, thus enabling us to 

56 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTU RAL CLUB MANUAL 

get our crops on the inarkct early in the season. This is a fac- 
tor of the greatest importance to the Southern truck grower. 

Preparation of Soil. — Too much importance cannot be placed 
on the thoroughness of the preparation of the soil before plant- 
ing a crop of potatoes. A crop of cowpea vines or clover turned 
under in the fall of the year and replowed the following spring 
makes an excellent field for potatoes. The decaying bodies of 
the plants fill the soil with organic matter and make it retentive 
of moisture. Before planting, the surface of the soil should be 
finely pulverized by the disc and acme harrow. A little extra 
work done in preparing the soil doubly pays for the trouble. 

Fertilizers. — Few of our soils in nature contain sufficient 
plant food to grow a crop of potatoes every year without addi- 
tional fertilizers. In the great trucking districts of the South, 
we find growers using from fiUO to 1,2(J0 pounds per acre of 
commercial fertilizers. The fertilizers vary in analysis but as 
a rule, contain from 3 to 4 per cent of nitrogen, 8 to 10 per cent 
of phosporus and 6 to 8 per cent of potash. The price of potash 
at the present time is so high that the farmer cannot afiord to 
use it unless he can find a supply of wood ashes close at hand. 
If stable manure is to be used, it should be applied broadcast 
and turned under several months in advance of the time for 
planting the potatoes. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What type of soil is best suited for potato growing? 

2. Why are the sanily loam soils of the South of such great 
importance for the growing of potatoes? 

3. Give direction for preparing the land for a crop of 
potatoes. 

4. Of what special value is a crop of peas or clover, when 
turned under for the growing of a potato crop? 

5. Why is it necessary to add fertilizer to our soils for 
each crop grown? 

6. What kind, an<l how much fertilizer, do you use per acre? 

Circular No. 2. — Potatoes. 

SELECTING THE SEED. 

I5.V J. S. KNOX. 

As a rule, very little attention is given to the selection of 
seed potatoes in the South. This should not be the case because 
there are few operations in potato growing that are of greater 
importance. This selection had best be done in the field at the 
time of harvest. Select the tubers from hills that have a good 
number of well formed an<l medium sized potatoes and also 
from those hills which show no evidence of disease. It should 
be remembered that potatoes having shallow eyes are to be pre- 

57 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

ferred to those having the deep eyes, or sunken places at the 
points where the sprouts appear. This is important because in 
paring the potatoes having deep eyes, it is necessary to remove 
so much of the flesh of the potato. 

Treating Potatoes for Planting. — Before planting a crop of 
potatoes, it is well to give them a treatment for the control of 
such diseases as scab and rhizoctonia. This treatment consists 
in the mixing of one pint of 40 per cent formalin with 30 gallons 
of water then soaking the potatoes in this solution for about IV2 
hours before cutting for planting. Another method of treatment 
is to dissolve 4 ounces of bichloride of mercury in 30 gallons of 
water and soak the potatoes in this for about lV-> hours before 
planting. As a precaution against infection it is well to treat 
the seed, whether or not diseases can be seen on the tubers. 

Planting. — Before beginning the planting, see that the sur- 
face of the ground is loose and mellow, then lay off the rows 
about three feet apart and drop the pieces of potato at intervals 
of 12 to 15 inches in the row. If you step on each potato it will 
bring it into direct contact with the soil and thus cause it to 
germinate more quickly. When the potatoes are dropped in the 
row, they should be covered as soon as possible to prevent the 
drying of the soil about them. It is not necessary to cover more 
than two or three inches for the early crop. The date for plant- 
ing the early crop may be said to extend from the latter part of 
February to the middle of April. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Give directions for selecting seed potatoes in the field. 

2. "Why is it important to select the potatoes with shallow 
eyes rather than those with deep eyes? 

3. Give directions for treating seed potatoes for planting 
purposes. 

4. What is the advantage of seed treatment before planting. 

5. Name the diseases that are most commonly found on seed 
potatoes in your section. 

6. Give directions for planting a crop of potatoes. 

7. What date do you generally plant the crop in your sec- 
tion? 

Circular No. 3. — Potatoes. 

CULTIVATION. 

By J. S. KNOX. 

As soon as the potato plants appear above the ground, the 
cultivation should begin, or in case a heavy rain should fall and 
cause a crust to form before the plants are up, a light harrow 
should be run over the rows to break the crust. Deep cultiva- 
tion for potatoes is not to be recommended because of the damage 

58 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICUL TURAL CLUB MANUAL 

it may do to the young potatoes. A light harrow that pulverizes 
the soil thoroughly to a depth of two or three inches should be 
used frequently, say at ten-day intervals and as early as possible 
after each rain. Do not do the cultivating when the plants are 
wet wdth dew or rain because this is likely to cause trouble 
with diseases. Keep all weeds out of the row by hand methods. 

Insects. — About the only insects causing trouble with potatoes 
are the potato beetle. These insects feed upon the foliage of the 
plants and in severe cases, all of the foliage may be destroyed. 

The adult potato beetle is a small balloon shaped insect with 
black and white or yellowish stripes running lengthwise the 
body of the insect. The larva of the insect is a similar shaped 
insect but of a light red color. The head of the young insect is 
nearly black. Both of the above insects can be controlled by 
the use of arsenate of lead or paris green mixed with Hour or 
air slacked lime in proportions of 1 part arsenate of lead to 
4 parts of lime or 1 teaspoonful of paris green to each pint of 
lime. 

Diseases. — There are several diseases of potatoes that are of 
great importance. The scab, which is controlled by crop rota- 
tion, seed selection and disinfection, as described before, is 
one of the most common diseases, the early and late blight caus- 
ing a dying of the leaves before the potatoes are half mature. 
Diseases of this nature can be controlled by thorough spraying 
with Bordeaux mixture at the rate of 2 pounds arsenate of lead 
paste to each 50 gallons of Bordeaux and this used to control 
the potato and flea beetle and the blight at the same time. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Tell what you can about the cultivation of potatoes. 

2. WTiy do we recommend shallow rather than deep culti- 
vation of potatoes? 

3. Name some of the most conunon insect enemies of the 
potato, and give methods of control. 

4. Mention the diseases which commonly attack the potato 
and tell how each may be controlled. 

5. Which, if either of these methods, do you use? 

*""" " LATE POTATOES. 

For the average farmer, the late crop of potatoes is of greater 
importance than the early crop because the late crop can be 
kept over winter and used until the early crop comes on. It is 
also the late crop which we use for seed in planting the early 
crop. 

The cultivation, spraying, etc., of this crop is the same as 
for the early crop, but the planting should be a little deeper 

59 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



for the late crop because of the lack of moisture in the surface 
of the soil at that time of the year. 

It is also advisable to sprout the late potatoes before plant- 
ing because this insures a better stand of potatoes. To sprout 
the potatoes, select a place in partial shade, spread the potatoes 
out in a thin layer, barely cover with soil, then over this put a 
layer of leaves or straw thick enough to shut out the light. 
Keep this moist until the sprouts are about Vi-inch long, then 
take up and plant at once. 

Circular No. J. — Potatoes. 

SELECTING AND JUDGING POTATOES FOR EXHIBIT PUR- 
POSES. 

By .J. S. KNOX. 

The man who judges an exhibit of potatoes usually has a 
definite score card with the different points to be considered, 
each point to be given a weight in proportion to its importance. 
Opinions diller as to what these weights should be, but possibly 
the following would be foiuid suitable for most cases: 

SCORE CARD FOR IRISH POTATOES. 

Uniformity 20 points. 

Trueness to type 15 points. 

Size an<i color 15 points. 

Depth of eyes 10 points. 

Freedom from disease 20 points. 

Freedom from injury 20 points. 

Total 100 points. 

At the outset it ma> be said that judging is wholly a process 
of elimination. All of the poorer grades are at once set aside and 
the remaining ones scored according to the above points. 

Uniformity. — One of the first points that catches the judges' 
eyes is that of the uniformity of the exhibit. Potatoes intended 
for exhibit pur|)oses should be selected with this in view. Uni- 
formity refers to size. shai)e and color of the intlividiial potatoes 
in the exhibit. 

Trueness to Type. — In selecting an exhibit of potatoes, be 
sure that you do not get the varieties mixed. The Early Rose 
and the Bliss Triumph both have red or pink skins, but White 
and Early Rose is of a flat shape, while the Triumph is more 
nearly round, l-^very potato in the exhibit for a certain variety 
should be of a shape characteristic of that variety. First, select 
a perfect specimen of the tiesired shape, size. c(dor, etc., for 
that particular variet\, then choose all others as nearly like this 
one as possible. 

60 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



Size and Color. — Do not pick out the largest potatoes for ex- 
hibit purposes but rather the medium size specimens. This is 
true not only for show potatoes but also those for market or 
seed purposes. The color must be uniform and characteiistic 
of that variety. 

Depth of Eyes. — Other things being equal, the shallower the 
eyes, the higher the score on this point. The eyes should also 
be as few in number as possible. By examining a few speci- 
mens, you can see what is meant here. 

Freedom from Disease.— Avoid all potatoes showing signs of 
disease. One diseased potato in a bushel may cause you to lose 
a prize, or in case you intend to plant the potatoes, it may be the 
means of getting disease scattered in your field. We cannot be 
too particular along this line. All diseases, no matter how 
serious they may be at present, at one time were confined to 
very few hills in the case of potato disease. 

Freedom from Injury. — Be careful in the selection of your 
potatoes that you do not include any potatoes that are damaged, 
either by serious bruises or broken skins. The ideal potato in 
this respect is one where there cannot be seen a trace of injury. 
This can come only from very careful handling and selection. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Name the points considered in judging an exhibit. 

2. What is meant by uniformity of an exhibit? 

3. Explain what is meant by trueness to type. 

4. What size potatoes would you select for your exhibit? 
For planting? 

5. What has color to do with i)otatoes for exhibit or plant- 
ing purposes? 

6. Would you prefer potatoes with a large number of eyes? 
With large depth of eyes? 

WHEAT. 

Circular No. 1. — Wheat. 
SOIL REQUIREMENTS AND PREPARATION OF SEED BED. 

By DEAN MARTIN NELSON. 

Select well drained, productive soil, and if possible, land that 
is somewhat elevated. The type of soil for wheat is not a difiicult 
requirement to meet, for it may be a heavy clay, a somewhat 
sandy soil, the ordinary bottom land or alluvial delta soil. When 
weather conditions are favorable, wheat does well on most Ark- 
ansas soils. The land must be well drained and productive. 

Plowing. — Break the land at least three or four weeks before 
time of sowing. Early plowing prevents many of the weeds from 
ripening seed and gives the soil time to settle and the subsoil 
turned up time to weather. Many wheat growers plow in August, 

61 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

in case there is no crop on the land to prevent. Plow evenly and 
to a good depth, at least six to eight inches. 

Preparation for Seeding. — Careful preparation makes good 
seeding possible. The soil must be well mulched and smooth on 
the surface in order to do the seeding properly. Use the spike 
tooth harrow freely and the disc harrow if necessary to break 
the cloils. Use the drag only for leveling the surface. Not 
until the surface is smooth and well pulverized is it right for 
seeding wheat. The practice, common in some localities, of 
plowing, seeding and dragging without using the harrow at all 
is a method unworthy of a well disposed farmer. 

Fertilizers. — The grower is usually able to know when fer- 
tilizers are needed. We advise that good productive soil be 
selected as far as possible. Wheat, like most other crops, is not 
a success on poor soil. However, on many uplands and on some 
bottom lands, fertilizers can be used with profit. On thin up- 
lands and crop worn bottom lands, also bottom lands naturally 
low in productivity, use one of the following methods: 

1. Apply six to eight tons per acre of w^ell rotted manure 
broadcast before seeding. 

2. Apply about six tons manure per acre reinforced by 200 
pounds of acid phosphate. 

3. If manure is not available, apply 300 to 400 pounds per 
acre of a standard mixed fertilizer. 

On lands of ordinary productivity, use 250 pounds of acid 
phosphate, or 300 pounds of a mixed fertilizer per acre. If 
manure is available, a moderate dressing of five or six tons 
should be applied. In applying fertilizer to wheat, one cannot 
do better than to make the aplication broadcast before seeding, 
and thoroughly mix with the soil by using the disc harrow. It 
is difficult to apijly fertilizers on wheat in the spring and prop- 
erly incorporate same with the soil without injuring the growing 
crop. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What are the special soil requirements for wheat grow- 
ing? 

2. Should wheat be sown on freshly plowed land? 

3. What is a good method for preparing seed beds? 

4. What are recommendations for the use of commercial 
fertilizer for wheat? 

5. What is your experience with conmiercial fertilizer and 
did it pay? 

6. Does it pay to use barnyard manure? When should it 
be applied? 



62 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CL UB MANUAL 

Circular No. 2. — Wheat. 

SEEDING. 

By DEAN MARTIN NELSON. 

Time. — Location must be considered in deciding the time of 
seeding. If it were possible to know them in advance, weather 
conditions should also be taken into consideration. Because our 
seasons change slowly and weather conditions frequently affect 
the proper date of seeding, only approximate dates can be set. 

North of the Boston Mountains it is advisable to seed, as a 
rule, from the 1st to the 15th of October. South of the Boston 
Mountains and throughout the central and northeastern part of 
the State, seed during the second half of October. In the south- 
ern part of the State, seed about the middle of November. The 
dates here recommnded are early enough in most seasons to give 
the crop time to establish itself well before the arrival of severe 
freezing weather. It is possible in some seasons, to seed later 
than the dates mentioned with equally satisfactory results. In 
case the Hessian fly is prevalent, the seeding should be delayed 
from two to three weeks. 

Method. — The grain drill provides the only satisfactory 
method of seeding winter wheat. The work of the Station shows 
that broadcast seeding is usually done at a loss of one or more 
bushels per acre. The quality of drill sown wheat is usually a 
shade better than a crop from seed sown broadcast. Usually 
drill sown wheat is able to germinate without waiting for rain. It 
can therefore start off promptly and evenly. It is better rooted 
and able to withstand any unfavorable condition better than a 
stand from seed sown broadcast. When grain drill is not avail- 
able, an improvement upon the usual broadcast method of seed- 
ing is possible by running a disc over the soil after it is pre- 
pared for seeding, setting the disc straight, so that only shallow 
grooves are made. The seed can then be scattered broadcast 
and covered by harrowing crosswise the grooves. The larger 
part of the seed will be lodged and covered in the grooves made 
by the disc. 

Rate. — The standard rate of seeding is one and one-half 
bushels per acre. It is unsafe to sow less than one bushel per 
acre. The condition of the soil and weather conditions are fac- 
tors in getting a good stand. A rich, well prepared soil stimu- 
lates growth and stooling. Favorable growing weather in the 
fall has the same efTect; however, the work of the Experiment 
Station indicates that to be on the safe side, one should seed 
at the standard rate. The fact that fair yields are often obtained 
from a low rate of seeding is not proof that that rate of seeding 
is best. 

Use Clean Seed. — See that the seed is cleaned to throw out 
worthless grains, straw, chaff, cheat and other weed seeds. Clean 

63 



HOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

seed makes even and perfect seeding more possible for the seed- 
ing machine and usually brings a satisfactory stand. Seed should 
be cleane<l to lemove the weed seed if for no other reason. The 
connnon fanning mill of any standard seed cleaning machine 
will do this work satisfactorily. If possible, buy seed already 
cleaned. 

Varieties. — The work of the Experiment Station, continuing 
through a period of nine years, has shown that the following 
varieties are generally reliable: Red May, Fulcaster, Alabama 
Blue Stem, Fultz. Other varieties that have done well are Ken- 
tucky Blue Stem, Sibley's New Golden, Poole, Curell's Prolific. 
In 1!)1C a comi)arative new variety known as Marvelous, gave 
relatively high yields, and also did well in 1917. 

All of the above varieties are soft or medium soft winter wheat. 
The hard winter wheat varieties, of which Turkey Red is a rep- 
resentative variety, do well in an occasional season when rainfall 
is light during iilling stage. At best, the ciuality of the product is 
not at par with the quality produced in the hard wheat producing 
areas, and frequently when rainfall is abundant, the qaulity from 
hard wheat strains is very low, though the yield may be well up 
to the average. These facts point to the better yielding of soft 
or medium soft varieties as the only safe type to grow in 
Arkansas. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What is considered the best time for seeding wheat in 
your locality? 

2. What method do you use in seeding? 

3. What is reconnnended as the best method for seeding 
wheal? 

4. How many bushels per acre arc used for seed? 

5. What is the average yield per acre of wheat in your 
conuuunity? Count> ? 

G. Do >ou have dilliculty in getting a good stand? 

7. What variety is recommended for your locality? 

8. Does it pay to have your seed wheat cleaned? 

i). How many farmers in your section clean seed before 
planting? 

Circular No. ;{.— Wheat. 

INSECT PESTS AND DISEASES. 

By DEAX MARTIN NELSON. 

Only two serious troubles are likely to be experienced by 
the wheat grower. The one is the Hessian Fly, the other is Rust, 
The chief protection from the Hessian Fly, is, as note<l above, 
to delay seeding for a period, two or three weeks. Fortunately 
the trouble from the Hessian Fly is by no means general. 

Humidity or dampness combined with high temperature 

64 



BOYS' AND GIRL S' AGRICULTURAL CLU B MANUAL 

usually encourage rust. It is the usual experience that wheat 
grown on land somewhat elevated is less troubled with rust 
than wheat grown on lower lands. It is therefore desirable to 
select, wherever possible, land somewhat elevated for wheat. 
If low level land is used, special attention must be given to its 
drainage. 

Pasturing. — To be on the safe side, do not pasture at all. 
Never let the field be grazed closely. Never let the field be 
trampled hard by stock. If warm fall weather produces large 
growth, a calf or two grazing a little in dry weather will do no 
particular harm. The idea prevails with some that pasturing is 
beneficial. If all conditions are right, must pasturing is done 
at considerable risk. 

Harvesting. — Wheat should be ripe but not over ripe when 
harvested. Quality deteriorates rapidly when wheat is allowed 
to stand in the field after it is ripe. It should be well shocked 
and covered with cap bundles innnediately after cutting. It 
should be stacked or threshed as soon as it is dry enough. Like 
other lines of production, wheat growing calls for timely effort, 
well directed. 

QUESTIONS. 

L "What are some of the enemies to wheat growing? 

2. Have you trouble with the Hessian Fly? How over- 
come it? 

3. Does rust injure your wheat? How avoid it? 

4. Is it good practice to pasture wheat? Do you? 

5. "When is the best time to harvest wheat? 



PIG. 

Circular Xo. 2.— Pig. 

SELECTION OF PIGS. 

By H. K. SANDERS, 
State Pig Club Agent. 

In selecting a pig, look for those that have straight feet with 
a large bone, an arched back, good width through the heart 
girth and breadth through the shoulders and ham. Do not select 
one that is too short if you are intending it for breeding pur- 
poses, but select one with moderate length, good depth of the 
side, a large heart girth and 10 or 12 teats. 

Avoid those that have narrow chests and sway backs. Avoid, 
lifeless and thriftless pigs; select those with an abundance of 
life and energy and good, bright eyes. Also look for well curled 
tail and nice, smooth hair. If the hair is turned the wrong way 
and the tail is straight, you had better find out the trouble and 
remove it. A wild, vicious sow will likely kill her pigs unin- 
tentionally or by accident, and a wild animal is not easy to fat- 

. 65 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 




The Type That Wins 



ten. A sluggish lazy sow will likeh kill her pigs hy l\ing on 
them. Animals selecteil for breeding purposes should come from 
large litters, as "like begets like." 

The pig should have a deep, broad and moderately long body, 
comparatively low to the ground and should stand s(iuarely on 
its fore-feet. Narrow chested animals are not desirable as it 
means they do not have large hearts or lungs. As these are vital 
organs, it is necessary that they be strong. 

The head should be short and broad, the neck short and thick. 
The shoulders broad and compact with no depressions back of 
them. In the Poland China breeds and the Duroc Jersey breeds, 
the ears should not be straight but should tip over about one 
third the distance from the end. The Polaml China's nose should 
be somewhat short and straight. The Berkshire's nose should be 
turned u]) like a pug nosed dog's, and the Duroc Jersey's nose 
should be dished half way between that of a Berkshire and a 
Poland China. 

A pig should be in a good, thrifty, growing condition. At 
the end of one month, it should weigh 18 to 22 pounds. When 
eight weeks old it should not weigh less than 30 pounds. Many 
pigs weigh as much as 40 pounds when eight weeks of age. 
When three months old they should weigh GO to 75 pounds, about 

66 . 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CL UB MANUAL 

120 pounds at 4 months and not less than 350 when a year 
old. 

To produce large litters, keep your pig gaining a pound a day. 
Well developed gilts bring larger litters and larger pigs than 
stunted gilts. 

Each member must be his own judge as to the breed he 
selects, but it is preferred that boys of any given community 
choose the same breed. If the breed is popular in the com- 
munity, it is easy to make new selections and to sell breeding 
stock as well as to make the community noted for one breed. 

Select pigs from prolific sows of 8 to 10 pigs per litter. 

Select pigs from good quiet mothers and good milkers. 

Select pigs from sows that have thick, deep, lengthy sides 
with 10 or 12 teats. 

Keep the good old tried sows. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Name the points to look for in selecting pigs? 

2. If you are selecting for breeding purposes, what must 
you look for in the gilt? 

3. Have the different breeds, such as Poland China, Duroc 
Jersey, different characteristics? 

4. WTiat should be the weight of pigs one month old? Two 
months old? Three months old? When a year old? 




This Win Help Keep the Boys on the Farm. 

G7 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

5. How much should a pig gain per day to be profitable? 

6. Why is it important for boys in one community to 
select the same breed? 

7. Would you select a pig from sows of large litters or 
small litters? Why? 

Circular No. 3. — Pig. 

CROP PLAN FOR GROWING FORAGE FOR YOUNG PIGS. 

One-half acre. 132 feet wide by 168 feet long. 



Plot 1—21 feet wide. 
Plant 6 rows early corn. Cut ofT and feed from June 
15 to July 7. Plant 7 rows peanuts about July 15. 



Plot XL— 21 feet wide. 
Plant 6 rows early corn and cowpeas together about 
May 1. Cut off from July 7 to August 1, Plant 1 pound 
Crimson Clover about September 1. 



Plot III.— 42 feet wide. 
Plant 12 rows field corn about April 15, in rows 36 
inches apart and eighteen to 20 inches in row. Broadcast 
2 pounds Crimson Clover seed about September 1. Harvest 
corn when ripe. 



Plot IV.— 21 feet wide. 

Plant 7 rows cowpeas about May 1st. Cut off from 
August 21 to September 15. Broadcast 5 pounds oats and 
1 pound hairy vetch about October 1. 



Plot v.— 21 feet wide. 

Plant 7 rows cowpeas about June 1. ('ut off from 
August 21 to September 15. Broadcast 5 pounds oats and 
1 pound hairy vetch about October 1. 



Plot VL— 21 feet wide. 

Plant 8 rows Spanish Peanuts about xMay 15. Harvest 
or pasture between August 30 and September 21. 



Plot VIL— 21 feet wide. 

Plant 8 rows Spanish peanuts about June 1.. Harvest 
when mature. 



PLANTING. 

Plot 1. — Plant to Daybreak or other early variety of corn 
about April 15th or earlier. Plant in rows three feet six inches 
wide and one kernel about every 12 inches. Keep well cultivated 
with any shallow cultivator. Break up when the corn is cut 

68 



BOYS' AND GIRL S' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

off and plant in peanuts as in Plot VI. Feeding from Plot I is 
supposed to begin about June 15th. This will be when the corn 
is in a green state. Green corn is an excellent hog feed. Some 
people do not give any additional feed when their hogs are 
receiving green corn. But for the best growth of the pig, it 
would be well to add about two pounds of middlings to every 100 
pounds live weight while the pig is receiving the corn. 

Plot II. — Plant to Daybreak or other early corn about May 
1st, as in Plot I. In the rows with the corn, plant cowpeas about 
15 inches apart in the row just as if there were no corn planted. 
Cultivate the two together when the crop is cut off, disk or break 
up the land and plant to Crimson Clover about September 1st, or 
as soon as the fall rains begin. Sow one pound of seed on the 
1-16 acre, or at the rate of 16 pounds per acre. Broadcast the 
seed and harrow them in. This plot will be ready for cutting 
about July 7th and the same method of feeding should be fol- 
lowed with this plot as in Plot I. If there happens to be any 
corn left over from the above plot, it can be fed in connection 
with the cowpea or peanut crop. 

Plot III. — Plant in any good variety of good field corn. Make 
the rows three feet six inches apart and one kernel each 18 or 
20 inches. Keep well cultivated and about September 1st, broad- 
cast two pounds of Crimson Clover seed in the standing corn 
and work it in with a small one-horse cultivator or harrow. 
Corn on this plot is to be pulled and fed in connection with the 
cowpeas and peanuts. 

Plot IV. — Plant to Whippoorwill, Brabham, or any other 
good variety of cowpeas about May 1st. Make the rows three 
feet apart. Disk and break and plant in oats and hairy vetch 
between September loth and October 15th, using one pound of 
vetch seed and five pounds of winter turf oats to the Vm acre. 
This plot should be ready for feeding on August 1st and 21st and 
will last at least until September 15th. In using cowpeas, we 
have a feed rich in protein (muscle builder) and it becomes 
necessary to balance it with a feed rich in carbohydrates (fat 
producers) so in this case we will drop our wheat middlings 
and feed corn instead. Feed about two pounds of corn to every 
100 pounds of live weight with the peavine forage. 

Plot V. — Plant in cowpeas June 1st and handle the same is 
in Plot IV. 

Plot VI. — Plant in Spanish peanuts about May 15. Rows 
should be about 30 inches apart with a plant each 12 inches. 
Keep out weeds with shallow plow. Will be ready for feeding 
August 30. With this crop we also continue to feed corn as 
outlined above. It will be well to gather these peanuts and 
store them in barn before the fall rains set in. 

69 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Plot VII. — Plant in Spanish peanuts about June 1. Make 
planting same as in Plot VI and handle the same way. Where a 
hog is to be finished off for market or home use, the grain 
ration should be increased to three pounds of corn to every 100 
pounds of live weight per day. A hog then weighing 200 pounds 
would receive six pounds of grain per day in addition to the 
peanuts. This higher standard of feeiling should be started about 
six or eight weeks before the hog is finished off. 

PLAN FOR GROWING GREEN WINTER FEED FOR YOUR PIG. 

Every Pig Club member should try to have something green 
to feed his or her pig all winter. It is easy to have grazing crops 
practically all winter if one will plan properly and begin work 
in time. 

Select a piece of land 100 feet wide, 200 feet long as near the 
hogs' feeding place as possible. Manure and plow the land the 
same as if you were going to sow turnips, but instead of sowing 
turnips, plant or sow grazing crops for your pig. Divide your 
field into four equal parts which will make each field 50 feet by 
100 feet. Then plant or sow as follows: 

On Plot I plant Dwarf Essex I'ape in 18 inch rows in 
August. On rich land one pound of seed is sufficient. Rape can 
be grazed 60 days after planting. 

On Plot II sow one half peck of rye, three pounds of Crim- 
son Clover, and one pound of Dwarf Essex rape about Sep- 
tember 1. 

On Plot III sow one peck of oats and 4 pounds of hairy vetch 
about September 15. 

On Plot IV sow half a bushel of Burr Clover in the burr 
sometime in August for the southern part of the State. In the 
northern and western part of the State, sow a peck of oats and 
one and one half pounds of red clover about September 15. 

The vetch, crimson clover and red clover should be inoculated 
by spreading a wheelbarrow full of soil from a field that has 
grown the crop. If you cannot get the soil, you can get a liquid 
culture free of charge, by notifying the County Agent, which 
will inoculate the soil. He will give you a card to fill out and 
the culture will come from Wa.shington, D. C. Write your County 
Agent or call on him in his office and ask him about sowing 
the above crops and where you can get the seed. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What is recommended to plant in Plot I for your pig? 
When woukl you expect to begin feeding early corn from Plot I? 
What else should be fed the pig that is eating green corn? 

2. Wliat is planted in Plots II and III? What should be 
sown between the rows of corn? What should be sown in the 
plot after the corn is harvested eaiiv in September? 

70 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICUL TURAL CLUB MANUAL 

3. What is recommended to be planted in Plot IV? What 
should be fed the pig when it is getting plenty of cowpeas to 
eat? 

4. What should you feed your pig while it is eating peanuts 
from Plot No. VI ? 

5. About how much corn should a pig weighing 100 pounds 
receive that you expect to fatten for the market when it is graz- 
ing cowpeas or peanuts? 

6. Feed is essential to make a pig grow. What else must 
a pig have to make it grow ? 

7. Give the plan outlined for growing winter forage for 
your pig. 

Ciiculai- No. 4. — Pig. 

HOW TO MAKE YOUR PIG GROW. 

1. Feed It Regularly. — Cowpeas, milk, shorts, and tankage 
make muscle and frame. Corn alone makes fat. Feed a variety 
of feed and keep him gaining a pound a day or more. 

2. Keep It in a Good Pasture. — Exercise makes a strong pig, 
the lack of it a weak pig. You can buy pork cheaper at the 
grocery store than you can raise it if you keep your pig shut up 
in a small, dry pen. Provide a pasture and exercise for your pig. 

3. Give It Plenty of Fresh, Clean Water. — Three-fourths of 
the weight of a pig is water. Hence, you can see the importance 
of plenty of fresh w^ater for your pig. Remember that you get 
thirsty in hot weather. 

4. Keep Your Pig Free From Disease. — Keep the charcoal- 
lime-sulphur mixture in a shallow box before your pig, as de- 
scribed on page 9 of Farmers' Bulletin No. 566, "Boys' Pig Clubs." 
This will keep your pig healthy, give it a good big bone and 
keep it free from worms. 

5. Keep Your Pig Free From Lice. — There is no market for 
hog lice. If you are feeding lice on your pig, you are being 
cheated. Drive a post in the ground, wrap a gunny sack around 
it and saturate it with crude oil where the pig can rub against 
it and kill the lice. 

6. Provide Forage Crops. — Do your best to grow something 
for your pig, as described in the circular sent you on "Plan for 
Your Pasture." 

7. Provide Plenty of Shade. — Provide shade, but do not 
allow a wallow-hole for your pig. 

Pigs at birth should weigh from 2% to 3V:> pounds; at four 
weeks old, they should weigh from 14 to 17 pounds, and about 
35 or 40 pounds when eight weeks old; 50 to 60 pounds when 
nine wrecks old; 60 to 75 pounds when three months old; 150 to 
200 pounds when six months old; 240 to 300 pounds when nine 

71 



BOYS^ AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

months old, and 325 to 400 pounds when 12 months old. Many 
pigs and hogs exceed these weights. 

A pig weighing about 38 pounds should have about the equal 
of 2.2 pounds of grain a day and should make a daily gain of 
about .8 pounds a day. A pig averaging about 78 pounds will 
eat about 3.4 pounds of grain, or its equivalent, and should make 
a daily gain of about .8 pounds a day. 

A pig weighing about 128 pounds will eat about 4.8 pounds 
of grain, or its equivalent, a day and should make a daily gain 
of about 1.1 pounds each day. A pig weighing about 178 pounds 
should have about 5.9 pounds of grain a day and should make a 
daily gain of at least 1.2 pounds. 

A pig weighing about 226 pounds should get about (>.C) pounds 
of grain a day, or its equivalent, and should make a daily gain 
of at least L5 pounds. A pig weighing 320 pounds should get 
about 7.5 pounds of grain, or its equivalent, and should make a 
daily gain of about 1.4 pounds. Many make greater daily gains. 

Endeavor to midve your pig do its best. Keep it free from 
lice. See Farmers' Bulletin No. 506, "Boys' Pig Clubs," page 9, 
and read how to keep the lice away. Keep the charcoal mixture 
before your pig, as described in that bulletin on the same page. 
Keep plenty of fresh water in clean troughs in a shade for your 
pigs. Keep it in a good Bermuda pasture if possible. Keep ac- 
count of all feeds given on a separate sheet of paper and put 
it in your record book when you get it. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Name seven things to do to make your pig grow. 

2. How many of these seven do you observe in caring for 
your pig? 

3. Is any one of more importance than the other? Which 
one? 

4. Pigs weighing about 40 pounds should be fed about how 
many pounds of grain per day? 

5. Pigs weighing about 80 pounds should be fed about how 
nnich a day, and how nuich gain should they make per day? 

6. Pigs weighing about 125 pounds should be fed how much 
per day and how much should they gain per day? 

7. Pigs weighing around 225 pounds should be fed how 
much grain per day and how much should they gain per day? 

8. What is the lime-charcoal mixture, and do you provide it 
for your pigs? Why is it recommended? 

Circular No. 5. — Pig. 

FEEDS AND FEEDING. 

No doubt but that you have learned that plants must eat the 
same as we must eat and so do animals in order that they may 

72 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICUL TURAL CLUB MANUAL 

grow. The animal's body is three-fourths water so you see 
that it is absolutely necessary to keep plenty of fresh water 
before your pigs all the time. The rest of the pig's body is com- 
posed of mineral elements, fat and protein or lean meat. 

All feed do not supply the same elements to a pig, the same 
as all fertilizers do not supply the same elements to the plants; 
hence we shall have to feed a variety of feeds in order to get a 
balanced ration. 

The animal's body, as stated above, is three-fourths water, 
hence water is necessary to carry the elements in solution to all 
parts of the body and to aid in digestion. Fat is produced by pigs 
eating such starchy foods as corn, rice bran, rice polish, potatoes, 
artichokes, feterita, milo maize, etc. Fat is used to keep the pig's 
body warm, also to give it heat and energy. 

Milk, shorts, tankage, cottonseed meal, soybean meal, peanuts, 
alfalfa, vetches, and clover are muscle builders. In other words, 
they make "ham what am" when fed in the right proportion. A 
pig will not make the best gains on corn alone because corn is a 
fat producer, but if it has run on an Alfalfa pasture, clover pas- 
ture or rape pasture and fed corn, it will make greater gains. 
One is a fat producer and the other one is a muscle builder. 
Whenever you feed both of them in the right proportion, the pig 
will do its best. 

Ash or mineral matter forms bone or hair. This should be 
supplied by keeping a lime-charcoal mixture before your pigs 
all the time. You have learned that a pig needs a good strong 
bone in order that it might be able to cary its heavy weight when 
it is two or three years old. In order to make bone and supply 
the mineral elements, you should get a bushel of charcoal, a 
bushel of ashes, about 6 pounds of table salt, about 8 pounds of 
slacked lime, 4 pounds of sulphur and mix all together thor- 
oughly. Then get 2 pounds of copperas and dissolve in 2 gallons 
of warm water and mix it with the charcoal, ash, lime and salt. 
Store this in a barrel under the shelter and keep some of it in 
shallow boxes before your pigs all the time. Perhaps you have 
seen a pig so fat with feet so weak it could not stand. If so, this 
should not have been the case. For further details, see Farmers' 
Bulletin No. 566, page 9. 

Pigs from three to five months old when in a dry lot will do 
well on feeds mixed in the following proportions: 

3 lbs. corn and 9 lbs. skim milk; 2 lbs. corn and 2V2 lbs. short 
or middlings. 

2 lbs. corn, IV2 lbs. shorts, and 4M; lbs. skim milk. 
3V2 lbs. corn, and 1/3 lb. digester tankage. 

3 lbs. corn and V2 lb. peanut meal. 
3 lbs. corn and V2 lb. soybean meal. 

73 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

When clovers, vetches, peas, beans, etc., are fed, the quantity 
of shorts, skim milk, peanut meal, tankage and soybean meal 
may be reduced. 

In balancing a ration for the pig, it is hardly necessary to 
take into consideration the fat and ash contents as this is usually 
supplied in the feed in a sufficient quantity. A pig on Alfalfa 
pasture, which is considered one of the richest of the muscle 
building feeds, will not gain nuich more than 1/3 or Vi lb. a day, 
but if given an ear of corn for each 100 pounds that he weighs, 
it will gain more than a pound a day. 

To make a steam engine pull, it takes wood, water and steam. 

The wood furnishes the fuel and the steam furnishes the 
energy, and that makes the engine go. Without either, the engine 
would not move at all. A pig is very much like an engine in 
this respect. It wull grow and develop better when fed a variety 
of feeds. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Of what is a pig's body composed? 

2. Do all feeds supply all of the elements needed to make 
a pig grow? 

3. Why is water necessary to a pig? 

4. Name 7 feeds that produce fat. What is fat used for? 

5. Name 8 feeds that are lean meat ami muscle builders? 

6. How must the fat builders and the nuiscle builders be fed 
to get the best results? 

7. Why do pigs need ash or mineral matters? How can ash 
and mineral matter be supplied? 

8. Give some rations for pigs 3 to 5 months old when fed in 
pens. 

9. How much will a pig gain a day if allowed to run on 
alfalfa pasture alone? How much daily gain will it make if al- 
lowed to run on alfalfa pasture and fed a big ear of corn each 
day? 

10. What does it take to make a steam engine go? What 
does it take to make a pig grow the most rapidly? 



Circular No. 6. — Pig. 

PASTURE FOR PIGS. 

Before one can raise pigs very profitably in Arkansas, a 
good permanent pasture is absolutely necessary. The farmers 
practice two methods of raising hogs in Arkansas. One is to put 
them in a dry pen and feed them corn, and corn alone. The 
other is to turn them out on the open range and feed them no 
grain except a few weeks before killing time. Either one of 
these methods is unprofitable. 

To get the best results, one needs to have a good permanent 

74 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

pasture and feed grain at the same time. If your pigs are run- 
ning on a good pasture alone you need not expect the best re- 
sults. You need not expect the best results if your pigs are fed 
corn and corn alone. It is true that you can make gains by feed- 
ing grain alone, but the cost of production will be too high. 

Experiments have been conducted in the South which show 
plainly that hogs on alfalfa pasture alone will not gain more than 
one-third or one-half pound a day, and alfalfa is considered one 
of the richest pastures for hogs. It has also been demonstrated 
that pork will cost 10 cents or 12 cents a pound when fed on 
corn alone worth $1.00 per bushel. 

A good pasture for Pig Club members to try to secure is 
a Bermuda pasture with bur clover, white clover, and lespedeza. 
The ground may be broken and Bermuda sowed and in the fol- 
lowing fall bur clover may be sowed on the land and the next 
spring white clover and lespedeza. 

With Bermuda as a basis, having bur clover, white clover, 
and lespedeza growing on it, you will have a pasture that will 
be green practically all the year. Bermuda grass will come on 
in April and furnish grazing for the pigs until the hot days of 
July and August cut the pasture short. In the fall of the year 
the bur clover will come up and furnish grazing in December, 
January, and February. 

When the bur clover dies down, then white clover will come 
on and furnish grazing until the Bermuda is ready for grazing 
again. Lespedeza will come with the Bermuda grass and in 
many cases the lespedeza will try to outgrow the Bermuda grass 
and the Bermuda grass will try to outgrow the lespedeza. 

This plan is the best that is known for the central and south- 
ern part of the State, and if you get the Bermuda started to grow- 
ing, get a few pounds of bur clover seed in the hull and scatter 
over the Bermuda pasture sometime in September or early Oc- 
tober. If you have a harrow handy it will be all right to harrow 
the seed in, but if you haven't, just scatter the seed on the Ber- 
muda pasture and the seed will come up in the fall. 

In the following spring broadcast 4 or 5 pounds per acre of 
white clover seed. This will come on and furnish early spring 
grazing until the Bermuda begins to grow in April. For the 
northern part of the State, orchard grass, red clover, and alfalfa 
should be sowed in the permanent pasture to furnish grazing 
all the time. Pigs need some green pasture to graze on, winter 
and summer, and a good pasture will cut the cost of production 
at least half. 

After you get the Bermuda, bur clover, and white clover 
started to growing, you will not have to reseed it any more. 

75 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What is necessary for raising pigs profitably in Ar- 
kansas? Name two methods now practiced by farmers. Are they 
profitable methods? 

2. What method gives the best results? Will pigs do their 
best on pasture alone? On corn alone? 

3. What is the cost of pork when made on corn alone? 

4. What do pig club members try to secure for their pigs? 

5. What would you sow to have a green pasture the year 
round? 

6. What clover will grow during the winter? What clover 
will take its place in the spring? What will grow then when 
both the clovers are dead? 

7. Give the plan for getting Bur and White Clover, also 
Bermuda and Lespedeza or wild Japan Clover growing in your 
pasture? What is recommended for pastures in the northern 
part of the State? 

8. How much does a good pasture reduce the cost of pro- 
duction? 

t). Does a permanent pasture have to be re-seeded? 

Circular No. 7. — Pig. 

SCORE CARD FOR HOGS OF THE LARD TYPE. 

Perfect 
Score. 

1. General Appearance. — Weight — Score according to 
age, 6 months 200 lbs., 12 months 400 lbs., 2 years 800 lbs 6 

Form — Deep, broad and long; body square in outline and 
squarely placed on legs well set apart 10 

Quality — Hair silky; skin and flesh smooth, free from 
lumps and wrinkles; bone clean and fine 10 

Condition — Thrifty with even covering of flesh especially 
on back, shoulder and loin 10 

2. Head and Neck. — Face — Short, broad between the 
eyes; poll broad and full; neck short, thick and deep, round- 
ing and full from poll to shoulder top; eai's of medium size 
and texture; jowl broad and full 6 

3. Fore Quarters. — Shoulders — Broad, level and compact 

on top; breast low and wide 8 

Legs — Straight, clean bone; upright pastern 2 

4. Body. — Chest and Sides — Deep, broad and full; ribs 
well sprung 8 

Back and Loin — Broad, straight or slightly arching and 
evenly fleshed; free from creases. Underline of belly should 
be parallel with the back; flanks full, deep and nearly level... 22 

5. Hind Quarters — Hips — Same width as back, long 
smooth, slightly rounded from loin to base of tail 4 

76 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Hams — Full, deep and wide, reasonably smooth and 
evenly fleshed down to hock 12 

Legs — Straight, short and set well apart, upright pas- 
terns, feet medium size and strongly formed 2 



Total 100 

Circular No. 8.— Pig. 

PREPARING YOUR PIG FOR THE FAIR. 

Give your pig special attention about 30 days before the 
County Fair. See that it is fed and watered regularly, give it 
some green feed every day, then what grain you give it will do 
more good. 

Handle your pig and have it perfectly gentle so that you can 
drive it well. Once or twice a week a boy should wash his pig 
good and keep it clean until the fair is over. It will make the hair 
look better and the skin will be soft and smooth. 

If the toes are growing long, take an old knife and trim them 
off smooth like a horse's foot. Pig's feet, especially those for 
breeding purposes, should be trimmed as it makes them look 
better and keeps them from having sledge runner toes. Whether 
the hog is to be shown or not, its feet should never be allowed 
to grow long, for the toes will break off and make the pig lame. 

At this time I want to call attention to the feeding of your 
pigs before the Fair. I find that a great number of the Pig Club 
members feed bulky feeds and slops without much grain. The 
pigs, in order to satisfy the appetite, eat so much they get 
paunchy, which tends considerably to count against them when 
they are shown at the Fair in the fall. Do not let your pig get 
paunchy. 

Three or four weeks before you show your pig at the fair, 
feed less bulky slop and more grain. If your pig is on green 
feed begin to keep it off of the crop gradually so that when it 
is sent to the fair it will not miss the green feed. 

Have your pig in good condition, but do not have pigs that 
are intended for breeding purposes overfat or they will not be 
good breeders. 

Scrub your pig once a week with brush and soap suds to 
which some stock dip has been added and it will make you pig's 
skin clean and free of scruf. Rubbing and brushing it will make 
the hair smooth and glossy and the skin loose and pliable. If the 
hair is course and has a tendency to stand straight, you can im- 
prove this by using a little of any good, clean oil which will not 
discolor the hair. Do not use coal oil. You may rub the oil on 
the pig with a cloth, corn cob or brush. 

Many of the best exhibitors trim the hair from the inside of 
the ear, but you must be careful or you might cut its ear. 

77 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What special attention should be given pigs 30 days be- 
fore the Fair? 

2. How should the pig be handled? 

3. What should be done with long toes? 

4. How should the pig be scrubbed? 

5. If the hair is coarse, what may be done to it to improve 
its looks? 

(). Should the grain ration be increased when preparing pigs 
for the Fair? 



Circular No. 9. — Pig. 

HOW TO MAKE A HOG-CRATE. 
The following illustration shows a properly constructed 
crate for shipping a hog. A crate constructed of good light ma- 
terial in this manner can be used several times for shipping pur- 
poses. A trough should be securely fastened in the front of the 
crate, for feeding and watering the pig. The crate is 2 feet wide, 




BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICUL TURAL CLUB MANUAL 

4 feet 8 inches long, and 36% inches high, by outside measure- 
ments. A smaller crate may be made for shipping a small hog. 

Lumber 1 inch thick should be used in building the main 
framework, which includes the side uprights and top and bottom 
braces. The ends and floor should be made from material of the 
same thickness, in order to support the weight of the hog and to 
keep him penned more securely in the crate. Lighter lumber, 
preferably %-inch, may be used for the top and the middle of 
the sides. 

The following material is necessary to construct the hog- 
crate: 

Three pieces 1 by 4 inches by 16 feet, for the side uprights, 
top and bottom braces, and for the two middle slats at each end. 

One piece 1 by 10 inches by 10 feet, for the iloor. 

Three pieces % by 4 inches by 12 feet, for the top and two 
middle slats of the sides. 

Two pieces % by inches by 10 feet, for the sides at the top 
and bottom. 

One piece 1 by 6 inches by 10 feet, for top and bottom of 
ends. 

Nails. 

A well-made crate lessens the danger of injury to a hog, in- 
sures his comfort, and is more easily handled than a poorly con- 
structed one. Each Pig Club member who ships his hog to the 
Fair should use extreme care in building the crate in order that 
big pig may ship well, and that it may be handled easily at the 
Fair Grounds. 

Start to make your crate early, so as to have it ready before 
time to ship your pig. Use 8-penny nails in constructing the 
crate, and see that each one is well clinched, so as to prevent 
injury to the pig. 

Circuhir No. 10. — Pig. 

PRODUCING AND DEVELOPING STRONG PIGS. 

Good sound thrifty pigs, weighing from 35 to 40 pounds each 
when eight weeks old, do not come by "luck." To be lucky with 
pigs simply means hard, persistent work, good judgment, and 
being on the job night and day. To produce good strong healthy 
pigs, they must be looked after before they are born. The 
mother while pregnant must be cared for and fed properly if 
she is to give birth to a strong litter of pigs. As a rule the 
mother is neglected during the period of pregnancy, the owner 
seeming to think that the application of care and feed after she 
has farrowed is all that is required. But we should know that 
a poorly nourished mother means a weak, sickly litter of loigs. 

The Shelter. — In the spring or sunnner season the sow is 
quite able to take care of herself. She will steal away in the 

79 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 




Hogs Like Warm Houses, Too. It Pays to Provide Them. 



pasture and in a day of two will come up with a nice litter of 
pigs— from eight to a dozen. But for the sow that farrows in the 
winter months some protection must he given her and her litter. 
Nothing is better for this than a warm shed open to the south 
to get the sunshine. The cold winds come from the north, north- 
east, and northwest, hence any shed inclosed on those three sides 
is suflicient. To prevent the sow from crushing the pigs at far- 
rowing time a scantling should be nailed to the inside of the 
house about 8 inches above the ground and projecting about 10 
inches toward the center of the pen. The small pigs can run 
under this protection and keep the mother from lying on them. 
There is no necessity for building a floor in these houses; some 
straw at farrowing time is all that is recjuired. 

Feed For the Sow Before Farowing. — Sows fed on corn alone 
will not bring strong and heavy pigs. Feed some peanuts, wheat 
shorts, tankage or sweet milk with the corn in the following 
proj)ortion: 

Corn 3 parts and shorts 1 part. 
(]orn 9 parts and tankage 1 part. 
Corn 2 parts and peanuts 1 part in hull. 
(]orn 3 parts and bran 1 part. 
(]orn 6 parts and cowpeas 1 part. 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



A 250 pound sow should have from 5 to 7 pounds per day 
of one of the above mixtures if she is fed in a dry lot and plenty 
of fresh water. The brood sow when carrying her litter has to 
be fed with a view of feeding the growing litter. The prospec- 
tive pigs of the litter need the most proper feeding to lay the 
foundation for their future strength, size and constitution. One 
of the drains upon the sow at the time she is carrying her litter 
is furnishing bone making material. She therefore requires an 
extra amount of bone making feed. The lack of it is an injury 
to the litter, and a danger to the sow. Provide a trough with 
wood ashes, charred corn cobs, charcoal and lime. For details 
see page 9 Farmers' Bulletin No. 566 on Boys' Pig Clubs. 

Feed For Sow After Farrowing. — The mother should not re- 
ceive feed for about 24 hours after giving birth to the pigs. She 
is feverish though and should be liberally supplied with fresh 
water. The second day after farrowing she should be given 
a small feed of shorts and skim milk made into a thin slop. If 
there is no skim milk on hand mix 4 parts of corn wdth 1 of 
shorts, cowpeas, soybean meal or peanuts and give a small quan- 
tity. She should be gradually brought up to a full feed. This 
should require about 3 weeks. If she is overfed at first, the pigs 
are likely to take the scours and thumps. When on a full feed 
in a dry lot, she will eat about 4 pounds of grain per day for each 
100 pounds she weighs. If she weighs 200 pounds she will need 
about 8 pounds per day. If she weighs 250 pounds she wull need 
about 10 pounds per day. If she has the run of a good pasture 
at least one half of the grain will be saved. If no pasture can be 
provided, she will need to be fed about the same as she was 
before farrowing time, except that she will need more grain 
than when dry. When the pasture is composed of Bermuda grass 
a grain ration equivalent to 3% of her live weight should be fed 
and the grain part of the ration should be shorts, tankage and 
cowpeas. 

Feed For the Pigs Before Weaning. — If given an opportunity 
the pigs will begin to eat when about 3 weeks old. For these 
young animals nothing is superior to skim milk mixed with 
shorts. Many farmers have no skim milk and in this case a 
thin slop of shorts will be the best thing to feed until the pigs 
are from 4 to 6 weeks old, after which time the ration should 
be made up of equal parts of corn meal and shorts. These young 
animals should not be fed on corn alone. They should rather be 
given such feeds as skim milk, shorts, cowpeas, soy- 
beans, meal and peanuts because they make bone and muscle. 

Weaning the Pigs. — Don't wean under 8 weeks of age. It is 
better not to wean until 10 or 12 weeks of age. The mother's 
feed at weaning time should be reduced so that the flow of milk 
will be checked. If full feed is continued when the pigs are 

81 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

weaned, the mother's teats and udders are apt to be ruined. 
Gains on young suckUng pigs can be made as cheap by feeding 
a given amount of feed to the mother as feeding directly to the 
pigs, yet the pigs should be accustomed to feeds before they are 
taken from the mother, if not they are sure to be seriously 
checked in their growth. Feed what they will readily clean up 
of 5 parts corn meal, 5 parts of shorts and 1 part of tankage 
or 9 parts of corn meal to 1 part of tankage, bran or middlings 
for young pigs; and for adult pigs 1 part tankage to 11 parts of 
corn, bran or middlings will balance the rations in the proper 
proportion of each to build up the bone and muscle of the pig. 
Pigs 8 to 9 weeks old should weigh from 35 to 40 pounds each. 

All club members who will have pigs to sell this spring are 
urged to do their very best with them. Perhaps the above sug- 
gestions will help you if you will carry them out. Do not be 
disappointed if you do not get the price that you think you ought 
to have for your pigs. A good registered pig, 8 to 10 weeks old, 
weighing from 35 to 40 pounds is easily worth 12 dollars or more 
but if you fail the iirst time, don't become discouraged. Read 
your bulletins and follow instructions. Attend to your pig and 
care for the little ones. There is a good chance for all club 
members to make good money with their pigs. News is coming 
in from many members, telling me that Betty has just found 12 
pigs or less and I am anxious that they grow to be strong thrifty 
pigs — pigs that will make the buyer proud — pigs that will make 
you a reputation. All members are asked to write to this office 
for any problem that might confront them and if you will have 
any good heavy sound sow pigs to sell between now and April 
1st, that can be registered, write me. 

Circular No. 11. — Pig. 

HINTS ON MANAGING THE SOW AND HER LITTER. 
Selection of Brood Sow and Pigs. 

1. Select your pig from prolific sows of eight to ten per 
litter that have proven themselves to be good quiet mothers. 

2. Select your pigs from sows with thick, deep, lengthy 
sides, and good arched backs and strong pasterns. 

3. The best mothers and suckers are generally those that 
have the most teats, preferably 12-14. 

4. Select gilts that are well developed for age. A pig eight 
weeks old should weigh not less than 30 or 35 pounds. 

5. Mark your pigs when one to three days old. It will help 
in selecting your breeding stock. 

Breeding: 

6. Development for age should determine the breeding age 

82 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 




The Aim of Every Pig Club Member. 



of young gilts. It is not advisable to breed gilts under nine 
months of age. 

7. Breed gilts to old boars rather than to young ones if the 
old boar is as good as the young one. 

8. Gilts that bring but one litter the first year have a 
greater opportunity for development. 

9. Breed old mature sows for two litters a year. 

10. The sow should be in good condition at breeding time. 

11. The overfat or poorly nourished sow is not in the best 
condition to develop and suckle strong, large litters. 



Feed and Care Before Farrowing: 

12. A good brood sow is a gold bond, and her pigs are 
coupons; therefore, begin to feed the young pigs before they are 
born. 

13. To insure the best development of uniform pigs, feed 
bone and muscle-building feeds, such as alfalfa pasture, with 
some corn each day, peas, shorts, tankage, skimmed milk or pea- 
nuts along with the corn. 

14. Do not neglect feeding the sow the latter part of gesta- 
tion period when unborn pigs are making greatest development. 

15. A ration of corn alone tends to make the sows overfat 
and feverish at farrowing time. 

16. Corn alone is deficient in bone and muscle-building 

83 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

material necessary for the development of large, strong pigs 
weighing about two to three pounds or more at birth. 

17. Avoid a constipated and feverish condition at farrowing 
time by fectling a slop feed of shorts and bran or a mixture 
of corn 4 parts, shorts 2.5 parts, bran 2.5 parts, tankage 1 part. 

18. Supply the sow with exercise by feeding her some 
distance from the sleeping quarters. 

19. Wheat bran is good to feed a week before and a week 
after farrowing. The flakes act as a laxative; it is cooling to 
the blood, nutritious and a good milk producer. 

20. Sows given exercise bring better litters than pen fed 
sows. 

21. Reduce the sow's ration just before farrowing and grad- 
ually increase to full feed 10 days after farrowing. 

22. So\^^s should have access to a lime-charcoal mixture 
and salt at all times. See Farmers' Bulletin No. 56(5, page 9. 

23. Sows may eat their pigs, due to an unbalanced ration 
and feverish condition at farrowing time. Remedy: Feed one- 
half to one pound of fresh salt pork and watch animal for several 
days. In some instances this habit necessitates disposal of the 
sow. 

24. Feed 1 or 2 per cent grain ration while sows are on 
pasture or eating legume hay such as peanuts, clover, soybean 
or cowpea hay. 

25. Sows may farrow dead pigs if made to step over raised 
boards to get into pens and by walking over ridges or rough 
plowed land. 

2t). Do not let a boar run with your sow near farrowing 
time. It may mean dead pigs at farrowing time, and perhaps 
a dead sow. 

27. Avoid letting your sow run with horses or cattle near 
farrowing time. It may mean dead pigs at birth. 

28. Do not let your sow run with fattening sows. It may 
mean dead pigs or a dead sow at farrowing time. 

2!l. If we fail to save the litter of a prolific sow at farrowing 
time, our negligence has offset the meritorious quality of the sow. 

Rations for Brood Sows: 

30. E([ual parts, shorts, corn and ground oats. Corn three 
parts, skim milk or buttermilk one part. Corn one part, tankage 
one part. (]orn three to five parts, with one to two parts of 
beans, peanuts, cowpeas, and soy beans. P«ice byproducts. See 
Arkansas Bulletin No. 128. 

31. Legume hay and root croi)s may be used to furnish 
bulk to winter ration. Pasture and forage crops supply bulk 
to sununer ration. 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Care of the Sow at Farrowing Time: 

32. Provide a good shelter two weeks ahead. Build a fender 
in the house to protect the young pigs. See Farmers' Bulletin 
No. 205, page 28, "Pig Management." 

33. About 10 days before farrowing time the sow should be 
separated from the herd so as to become used to her new 
quarters. 

34. Make a good bed of chopped or short straw, leaves or 
hay. Do not have too much. 

35. Kindnes wins favor with the sow. Pet her. 

36. Be present at farrowing time to care for young pigs. 
Sixty per cent of young pigs are lost before three days old. 

37. Keep the pigs in a box until the sow has finished far- 
rowing. In cold weather, heat the box by means of hot bricks 
or stone. 

38. Chilled pigs may be revived by inuncrsing in warm 
water and rubbing dry. 

39. In cold weather give warm water and in hot weather 
give clear fresh water only for the first 24 hours. 

40. Feed grain and milk sparingly for three or four days. 

41. The first feed should consist of a slop made of shorts 
and not over half a gallon or a quarter of a pound of bran fed 
twice a day. 

42. Gradually increase the ration to full feed in 10 to 14 
days after farrowing. 

43. Feed no corn the first week. Corn may be added to 
shorts after this time and gradually increased by end of the 
second week. 

Pushing the Suckling Pigs: 

44. Feed the sow lightly at first. 

45. Slowly increase her feed. Do not change the ration 
suddenly. 

46. After your pigs are two weeks old, feed your sow skim- 
med milk tankage, shorts and hay from clover, alfalfa or peanuts. 

47. Heavy feeding of corn may cause your pigs to have 
thumps, and thumps in pigs usually means death. Feed other 
things to the sow along with corn and allow pigs ])lenty of ex- 
ercise in a large lot. 

48. Start the young pigs to eating as early as possible by 
supplying a thin slop of shorts and shelled corn in a creep away 
from the sow's. 

49. Make the creep door or opening perpendicular to pre- 
vent pigs from becoming ruptured or sway-backed. 

50. If you have no milk, feed equal parts of corn meal and 
shorts made into a slop. 

85 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

5L Begin to feed soaked corn to your pigs when four weeks 
old. 

52. Don't wean pigs until they are eight to ten weeks old. 

53. Pigs will grow best if fed small amounts often rather 
than all they can eat twice a day. 

54. Scours in suckling pigs may be due to overfeeding of 
sow, sour feed and dirty pens. Remedy: Reduce sow's ration 
and feed one-half teaspoonful of copperas for two to three feeds. 

55. A wet and dirty pen may cause pigs' tails to drop off. 
Remedy: Clean pens and grease tails with lard or carbolated 
vaseline. 

56. Feed the pigs dry feeds and grain after they get older 
by means of a self-feeder. Write H. K. Sanders, Old State House, 
Little Rock, Ark., for a plan "How to Build a Self-Feeder." 

57. Fee<l grain while pigs are on pasture. 

5!). Do not allow the young pigs to become stunted. 

60. Feed corn shorts and tankage in a self-feeder and the 
pig will do the rest. 

61. Remember that a wet bed for your pigs to lie in might 
cause you to lose half of them. 

62. When you slop your pigs, feed them in a low. Hat 
trough. Don't make them hump over a high trough to eat. Take 
a board 12 inches wide, as long as you need, and nail three-inch 
side pieces on it for pigs. It is a sensible trough from many 
standpoints. 

()3. If the hair is standing the wrong way on those pigs there 
is something wrong. Better look for the cause and remedy it. 

64. Keep the lime-charcoal mixture before your pigs all the 
time. This furnishes the necessary mineral elements to make a 
large bone for your pig. Keep the pigs healthy. Read page 
9, Farmers' Bulletin No. 566, "Boys' Pig Clubs." Write for the 
bulletin if you need it. 

65. Keep the curl of the pig's tail there all the time by 
careful feed, attention and sanitation. It means profit to do so. 

66. It is a mistake to think that the pigs can thrive in un- 
clean quarters. The pig is the cleanest animal in existence if 
given half a chance. It likes to be clean. It likes clean food and 
warm food when it is cold weather, plenty of something green 
to eat winter and sunnner, a nice place to exercise, and a clean, 
dry bed when it gets home at night. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What should be provided before farrowing time? 

2. Of what should the bed be made? 

3. What should be given the sow for the first 24 hours? 

4. How should grain and milk be fed the lirst 3 days? 

5. Should corn be fed the first week? 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

6. What per cent of pigs are lost before they are 3 days 
old? What causes this big loss? 



1. How should the sow be fed at first? 

2. Should the ration be suddenly changed? 

3. What should be fed the sow when the pigs are 3 weeks 
old? 

4. What causes thumps in pigs? 

5. When should you begin feeding young pigs? How? 

6. Give a good ration for a young pig? 

7. At what age should soaked corn be fed young pigs? 

8. How old should pigs be before they are weaned? 

9. How would you feed pigs to make them grow best? 

10. What causes scours in pigs? 

11. Should pigs have wet, damp beds? 

12. What kind of troughs should pigs have to eat out of? 

13. Should pigs have clean quarters? Why? 

CALF. 

Circular No. 1.- — Calf. 

SELECTING THE CALF. 

By J. H. McLEOD. 

The best possible start a boy can have in growing a calf is 
to begin with a good individual. For a calf to be a good individ- 
ual, it need not necessarily be a registered animal. Good, high- 
grade beef and dairy female calves can be selected that will pay 
a profit. All bull calves should be registered. 

Select calves coming from good, strong parents. It is not 
necessary that the mother be pure bred, although it would be 
well for her to be a good high-grade. The sire of the calf should 
be a registered animal and both sire and dam should show the 
strong points we would like to see in our calf. 

Cattle are divided up into three general classes: 

(1) Beef breeds. 

(2) Dairy breeds. 

(3) Dual purpose breeds. 

Each of these classes have some special functions to perform. 
As the name implies, the special function of the beef breed is to 
produce beef; the dairy breed is to produce milk, while the 
dual-purpose breed is supposed to make a combination of both 
milk and beef. 

The kind of calf the boy selects should be governed by his 
object in growing a calf. Do you want beef, milk or a combina- 
tion of beef and milk? After you have decided upon the type 
you desire then use the score card to help select the best of 
the type you have chosen. You will not be able to find a perfect 

87 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 





MJn 



»f B i::7 -J,: wi»ji-y!JsaB<ga<^?>ay- ism^. 



A Good Type of Dairy Calves. 




A Good Type of Beef Calves. 



88 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLU B MANUAL 

animal; if you could, it would cost more money than you would 
care to pay. 

By studying the score card, you can tell the most important 
points to take into consideration in selecting your calf. A score 
card for the dual purpose calf is not given. In selecting an 
animal of this type one must take into consideration that he is 
looking for beef characteristics combined with milk characteris- 
tics. The supply of good dual purpose cattle, however, is very 
scarce so it is doubtful whether these animals can be found at 
reasonable prices. 

SCORE CARD FOR DAIRY HEIFER CALVES. 

Age Scale of Points. 

General Appearance — 40 points. Possible 

Score. 

Weight proportionate to age and breed. Est. 

Actual 8 

Form, deep, long, wide; ribs well .sprung; top and bot- 
tom lines level and parallel; rump long, level and wide 10 

Head, well proportioned, clean cut; face dished; muzzle 
broad 4 

Neck, clean at throat, long free from dewlap, well joined 
to shoulders 3 

Quality, hair fine, bone clean and smooth and propor- 
tionate to body in size 5 

Disposition, active and alert 8 

Color, distinct and characteristic of breed.. 2 

Constitution and Health — 20 points. 

Skin, clean, pliable and oily 6 

Nostrils, open 2 

Eyes, prominent and bright 2 

Heart Girth, large full at crop and fore flank 6 

Backbone, straight and strong 4 

Condition — 20 points. 

Body, medium well fleshed, indicative of dairy form 15 

Hair, fine, soft and straight 5 

Milk Organs — 20 points. 

"Well developed indications of large and symmetrical 

udder 10 

Teats, good even size and well placed 8 

Mammary Veins, extending well forward as determined 

by wells 2 



Total 100 

89 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

SCORE CARD FOR BEEF CALVES. 

Age Scale of Points. 

General Appearance — 50 points. Possible 

Score. 

Weight, proportionate to age and breed. Est 

Actual 10 

Form, deep and long, thick and wide; ribs well sprung, 
top and bottom lines level and parellel; rump long, 
level and loin short front to rear, wide and level; 
thighs muscular twist plump and deep; back straight 
and wide 12 

Head, broad, face dished, muzzle large 5 

Neck, short, full, free from dewlap, neatly joined to head 

and shouklers 3 

Quality, hair fine, bone clean and smooth and propor- 
tionate to body in size 10 

Disposition, active and alert, neither nervous nor sullen .... 8 

Color, distinct and characteristic of breed 2 

Constitution and Health — 25 points. 

Skin, clean, pliable and oily 6 

Nostrils, open 2 

Eyes, prominent and bright 2 

Heart Girth, large and full at crops and fore flanks 10 

Back, straight, strong and wide 5 

Condition — 25 points. 

Body, thickly fieshed, indicative of beef form 20 

Hair, heavy, mossy, soft and straight 5 



Total 100 

QUESTIONS ON SELECTING THE CALF. 

1. Name the best way a boy can start in growing a calf? 

2. "What kind of calf would you select for your club calf? 

3. Name three general classes of cattle and functions of 
each. 

Circular No. 2. — Calf. 

PASTURE FOR CALF. 

By LOUIS SAWYER. 

Keep the calf on pasture as long as there is good grass to 
eat. One of our cheapest feeds is pasture grass. The calf should 
always be given all it will consume of the good, succulent feed. 

The calf will require about one-half acre of good pasture. 

If your half-acre pasture is on a hilly or rolling field in 
northern Arkansas, sow the following seed after they are well 
mixed: Fifteen pounds orchard grass, 4 pounds Kentucky blue 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

grass, 2 pounds white clover. The ground should be plowed 
and harrowed very fine before any grass material is sown. This 
mixture should be sown about the first of March and harrowed 
into the ground so none of the seed is over one inch deep. The 
weeds should be mowed several times each summer. 

If your half-acre is a sandy and level field in northern 
Arkansas, or any field in central or southern Arkansas, small 
bunches of Bermuda sod should be set out about one foot apart 
in the rows, and the rows should be about IVs feet apart. This 
should be set out during the rainy season during March, April 
or May. After the sod is set, sow about four pounds of white 
clover or 10 pounds of bur clover in the bur. 

If your half-acre is a wet field, the following mixture should 
be sown: Six pounds of red top and 2 pounds of Alsike clover. 
This mixture should be sown about the 1st of March and har- 
rowed in so not any of the seed is over one inch deep into the 
ground. 

You should also have wheat or rye pasture for the calf in 
the winter. Select a half-acre that will dry up quickly after 
each rain, plow the ground and harrow down very fine. If you 
can secure a drill, drill in 30 pounds of rye on the half-acre 
about the 1st of September. Do not cover any of the seed over 
1% inches deep. If you cannot secure a drill, sow the seed by 
hand and harrow it in. Do not let the calf run on this pasture 
when the ground is very wet. In central and southern Arkansas, 
oats may be used for winter pasture and the grain harvested for 
feed the following spring. 

Alfalfa, red clover and sweet clover should not be pastured. 
They are meadow grasses and should be cut for hay. There is 
a great danger of losing the calf with bloat when pastured on 
the above meadow crops. 

ROUGHAGES TO FEED THE CALF. 

Hay. — When the pasture begins to fail, the calf should be fed 
all of the alfalfa, clover or pea hay it will clean up twice a day, 
morning and night. If the calf is put in a barn at any time, a 
little hay should be fed to it. Timothy or wild hay is unsatis- 
factory and should not be fed to the calf. During the winter the 
hay should always be the last feed given the calf. It is the feed 
to finish up the calf and should be given after the calf has 
finished eating the coarser silage or fodders. 

Corn Silage. — Good silage is an excellent feed for cattle and 
can hardly be replaced for growing calves. Moldy, spoiled, or 
frozen silage is injurious and should never be fed to any class 
of cattle. The calf should be given all it will consume twice a 
day, immediately after it has finished eating its grain. 

Corn Fodder or Sorghum Fodder. — If the silage is not 

91 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

obtainable, the corn foddei' or sorghum fodder may make up the 
bulk of the roughage. Feed the calf all it will clean up of these 
coarse roughages before the hay is given. It will take more hay 
when the fodder is fed instead of the silage. 

QUESTIONS ON PASTURE FOR THE CALF. 

1. Where should the calf be kept? 

2. Name one of the cheapest feeds for a calf. 

3. About what size pasture does a calf need? 

4. Name a pasture for northern Arkansas. How should the 
land be prepared? 

5. What kind of pasture is best suited for southern Ar- 
kansas? How would you prepare the land? 

6. Wliat would you sow if the calf pasture is a wet field? 

7. What should you sow for your calf's pasture, in addition 
to the permanent pasture? 

8. Should alfalfa, red clover and sweet clover be pas- 
tured? Why? 

9. What is said about hay as a roughage to feed the calf? 
Corn silage? Corn fodder or sorghum fodder? 

Circular No. 3.— Calf. 

GRAIN RATION FOR THE CALF. 

By LOUIS SANVYER. 

Oats. — Preferably rolled or ground should make up at least 
half of the grain mixture. They are builders of muscle and bone. 
They make a fast gain and leave a smooth uniform finish. 

Corn should be fed lightly. It is a fattening feed and not a 
growing feed. It should not make up over one-fourth of the 
mixture. 

Cottonseed Meal should make up about one-tenth of the mix- 
ture. It is an excellent feed for calves when not fed in too large 
quantities. A little salt should always be added to the mixture. 

A satisfactory mixture for your caTf is: 

4 buckets oats, rolled or ground. 

1 bucket coarsely cracked corn. 

K> bucket cottonseed meal (ground to pea size.) 

2 handfuls of salt. 

(Using a half-bushel bucket.) 

The feed should be thoroughly mixed. Measure out about a 
half gallon of the mixture. This should be dampened so it will 
barely stick together when pressed with the hands. This wet 
feed should never be kept over night or allowed to sour. It 
should always be fed freshly dampened. 

If molasses or sorghum is obtainable a mixture of three- 
fourths water and one-fourth of the molasses or sorghum can 
be used instead of the water alone. Molasses is alwavs liked 

92 



BOYS' AND GIRL S' AGRICULTURAL CLU B MANUAL 

by cattle and will cause the calf to eat the grain more eagerly. 
About a half gallon of the grain mixture with a pasture or silage 
and hay should be fed morning and night. If you have only 
fodder and hay, more of the grain mixture should be fed .prefer- 
ably from three-fourths to one gallon per feed. 

Salt should be before the calf all the time. — There should be 
a small box in the corner of the stall or pasture in which salt 
should be kept at all times, thus giving the calf access to it at 
free will. 

Fresh, clean water should be kept before the calf. — The calf 
should have access to either a fresh running" stream of water or 
fresh water in a trough or bucket. It should be allowed water 
as it desires. 

If the calf should go off feed. — If at any time the calf does 
not clean up its grain mixture or hay, feed a smaller amount the 
next feed and continue decreasing it until it is again cleaning 
up all of its feed. 

The calf must have feed to grow and develop. — It will make 
a gain that will pay for the feed and leave a big profit if it is 
properly fed and cared for. 

QUESTIONS ON GREEN RATION FOR THE CALF. 

1. How should oats be fed to calves? Are they muscle 
builders or fat builders? What kind of finish does oats leave? 

2. Why should corn be fed lightly? 

3. What part of the mixture should cottonseed meal make? 

4. Give a satisfactory mixture for your calf. 

5. How would you prepare this mixture? Why would you 
not feed it after it has stood over night? 

6. Give a mixture if molasses or sorghum is to be fed. 

7. What is said about keeping salt before your calf all 
the time? Fresh, clean water? 

8. If the calf goes off feed, what would you do? 

Circular Xo. 4. — Calf. 

CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF THE CALF. 

By LOUIS SAWYER. 

From the time the calf is weaned until the following fall, 
the management will mainly be, to feed properly, to water regu- 
larly and to see that the calf is protected from an excess of wet 
weather and severe storms. 

It should be fed and watered regularly. — If you practice 
feeding at 6 o'clock in the morning and again at 6 o'clock at 
night, the calf will soon become as accustomed to eating at those 
hours as people become accustomed to their regular meals. The 
regular feeding is essential to good growth. 

93 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

The calf must have water. — It should be allowed to run 
either to a stream of water, or some other watering device that 
will furnish fresh water all times of the day. If such arrange- 
ments can not be made, the next best is leading the calf to water 
at least three times a day. 

It must have a dry bed and dry feed ground. — During the 
dry weather, a calf will do about as well if kept in a well 
drained lot, where feed may be fed or where the calf can lay 
down on dry ground. A little straw scattered on the ground 
will be picked over by the calf and the balance will pay well 
for itself if used for a bed. 

There should be a shed or stall, that the calf can go under 
during stormy weather. This may be an open shed, a stall in 
the barn or any shelter which has a roof, a dry Iloor and sides 
that break the cold, stormy wind. The open barn or shed is 
preferable to the tight stall. The stall should always be kept 
clean and should be well bedded with about a foot of straw. 
The straw should be shaken up several times during the day, 
to keep a soft bed. 

Only a rope halter should be used. — A rope halter that is 
made so it binds around the jaw when the tie rope is pulled, 
should be used on the calf. The leather halter or any halter 
that does not bind is not as effective. It gives the calf a chance 
to do very much as it desires and too great a chance to break 
loose. In breaking the calf to lead, you should always stay in 
front of the animal, giving it the slow steady pull, first to one 
side and then to the other until the calf gives up and is willing 
to follow you. 

Treat the calf as your best friend. — It should never be mis- 
treated so that it acts afraid of you when you come into the 
stall or lot. Let it know that you are its friend, but that it also 
has to do as you desire. A pat of the hand, a little feed or any 
other friendly move with which to persuade the calf is on the 
road to success in the cattle business. Do not spoil the calf on 
the start by trying to lead him alone and letting it get away, or 
by trying fo catch it in a big lot and having it go through a fence, 
when it could have been caught in the stall or in a small corral. 
If a calf is successful in not letting you do as you desire, it will 
soon think it does not have to obey and will try to do the op- 
posite as you desire or try to get away. 

There are many other things that you can do that will 
make the calf grow faster. You should always use your own 
judgment and carry out such advantages to the calf as you see fit. 

QUESTIONS ON CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF THE CALF. 

1. How would you manage the calf from the time it is 
weaned until the following fall? 

94 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

2. "What is said about feeding and watering regularly? 

3. How many times a day should the calf be watered? 

4. Is a dry bed important for the calf? 

5. Would you have a shed for your calf? 

6. Why should a rope halter be used? 

7. How would you treat your calf? 

8. Name a way in which you can spoil your calf. 



SHEEP. 

Circular No. 1. — Sheep. 

SELECTING THE EWE. 

By J. H. McI.EOD. 

The breeding and individuality of the sheep will determine 
to a large extent the boy's success in the sheep club. Do not 
expect to find a perfect sheep — there are none. One should pay 
particular attention to see that the sheep has a good, strong back, 
a well developed loin and hind quarters, as it is from these parts 
that the highest priced cuts of meat are obtained. Due consider- 
ation should also be given to the form, quality and constitution 
of the sheep. A broad, low set deep bodied animal will mature 
more quickly and put on flesh more rapidly than the shallow 
body rangy type. Constitution is judged by the appearance of 
the chest, that is, its depth and width. Without constitution an 
animal may lack vigor and be a poor feeder and breeder. 

Quality is indicated by the cleanliness of the bone, the fine- 
ness of the skin and the nature of the hair covering the face and 
legs. Qaulity is important in either breeding sheep or sheep 
intended for butcher purposes. The more quality possessed by 
a sheep the larger percentage of good edible meat it is capable 
of producing. 

In judging sheep one cannot determine the form of the 
animal with the eye. On account of the covering of wool it is 
necessary to resort to the fingers, in other words "see with the 
fingers." It is with the hand and fingers that one determines the 
straightness of the back, the spring of the ribs, the fullness of the 
leg of mutton, the depth of the chest, etc., in fact all points of the 
sheep covered by wool. 

As sheep are bred not only for mutton, but also for wool, it 
is necessary to place some value upon the nature of the wool. 
The chief points to take into consideration in examining the 
fleece are quality, quantity and condition. 

The best wool is found over the shoulders and the poorest 
over the thigh. The most satisfactory method of arriving at 
the nature of the fleece is to place the hands side by side in a 
flat position and gently pull the hands apart until the wool is 
sufficiently open for inspection. The usual method of examining 

95 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



the fleece is to open first the wool over the shoulders, then over 
the thigh and last over the belly. By examining the fleece in 
these three parts one can arrive at a fair estimate of its qualities. 
The score card given below is intended to be used in the selec- 
tion of mutton sheep. The breeds of mutton sheep include the 
Southdowns, Shropshires, Hampshires, Oxfords, Dorsets, Chev- 
iots, Sufi'olks and Tunis. The first three named breeds are the 
most i)opuIar. 

The above points are mentioned as being some of the more 
important ones. There are many more that should be taken into 
consideration. Study the score card in order to become familiar 
with the scale of points. 

Boys joining the Sheep Club should read Farmers' Bulletins 
Nos. 576 and 840. 

QUESTIONS ON SELECTING THE EWE. 

1. In selecting a ewe, what would you look for? 

2. What kind of body should the ewe have? 

3. What is constitution judged by? 

4. In judging sheep, what is meant by "seeing with the 
fingers?" 

5. Where is the best wool found on a sheep? 

6. Name a method of examining the fleece. 

7. ('an you name some mutton sheep? 

SCORE CARD FOR EWE. 

Scale of Points. 

General Appearance — 40 points. Possible 

Score. 

Weight — Proi)ortionate to age and breed Est. 

Actual 8 

Form — Deep, low, thick and wide; ribs, deep and arched; 

top and bottom lines level and parallel; rump and 

body long, level and wide; loin, broad and thick; 

thighs, full, well fleshed; twist, plump and deep; 

back, straight and wide 12 

Head — Broad, reasonably long, muzzle fair size 4 

Neck — Short, reasonably slender; throat clean 3 

Quality — Silky hair, clean bone, i^roportionate to body in 

size 6 

Disposition — Active and alert 5 

Markings — Distinct and characteristic of the breed 2 

Constitution and Health — 25 points. 

Skin — Clean, pinkish appearance and oily 6 

Nostrils — Open 

Eyes — Full and bright 2 

Heart Girth — Deep, with large circumference 10 

Back — Straight, strong, wide 5 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Condition — 20 points. 

Body — Well fleshed and compact 15 

Hair — Fine and glossy in appearance 5 

Wool — 15 points. 

Quantity — Long, dense, even 6 

Quality — Fine, soft, pure, even 5 

Condition — Bright, strong, clean 4 

Total 100 

Circular No. 2. — Sheep. 

FEEDING THE CLUB EWE AND LAMB. 

By LOUIS SAWYER. 

\Yhenever there is not sufficient grass to keep the ewe giv- 
ing plenty of milk or gaining in weight, she should have either 
alfalfa, clover or pea hay fed to her twice a day, morning and 
night. She should be fed all that will be cleaned up each time. 

Along with the hay in the winter the cheaper roughage may 
be fed and may make up the bulk of the ration. 

Corn Silage. — Good corn silage is an excellent feed for the 
ewe. Moldy, spoiled or frozen silage should never be fed. It 
has an injurious effect and has caused many ewes to die. The 
good silage should be fed before the hay, in the morning and in 
the evening. The ewe should be given all she will eagerly 
clean up. 

Corn Fodder or Sorghum. — If corn silage is not obtainable, 
the corn fodder or sorghuin fodder may make up the bulk of 
the roughage. All a ewe will clean up should be fed before the 
hay is fed. It will take more hay where the fodder is fed in- 
stead of the silage. 

Grain to Feed. — If the ewe is fed all of the alfalfa, clover or 
pea hay she will clean up, there will not be any need of grain 
until about one month before she lambs. 

The following mixture is suggested for the ewe durhig the 
month just before lambing: 

4 buckets of coarsely cracked corn, 

4 buckets of rolled or ground oats. 

1 bucket of cottonseed meal. 

2 handfuls of salt. 

(Using one-half bushel bucket.) 

Mix the feed thoroughly. 

Feed about one-half pound of this mixture morning and 
night. Feed the grain first or before any of the roughage is fed. 

Keep Salt Before the Ewe at All Times. — The rock salt is 
very satisfactory. It will not waste as badly as the fine salt, 
and the ewe will nibble it off as fast as it is desired. 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Keep Water Before the Sheep at All Times. — The pasture in 
which she is kept should have clean, fresh, running water or 
water in a trough or bucket that is obtainable at all times. If 
she is in a stall or small lot, there should be a trough or a bucket 
filled with water that she may go to at any time. 

Feeding the Lamb. — As soon as the lamb is ten days or two 
weeks old, a small pen with a gate that allows the lamb to enter 
and does not admit the ewe should be built. Such a pen is called 
.a creep. 

A trough with two partitions, making three separate places 
for the feed, should be placed in this pen. In each division of 
the trough, place one of the feeds that you have on the farm; 
in one apartment, you should place cracked corn, in another, 
rolled or ground oats, and in the other, cottonseed meal. If 
you have bran, another place should be made for it. Thus the 
lamb may choose its own grain. In other words, the lambs 
will be "Free Choice Self-Fed," they will select the grain they 
desire and eat all they desire. 

With all the milk from the ewe and the grain at free will, 
the lamb will be ready for market when it is three to four 
months old, or at a season of the year when lambs on the market 
are a high price. 

QUESTIONS ON FEEDING THE CLUB EWE AND LAMB. 

1. What should you feed your ewe and lamb when there is 
not enough grass? 

2. How often should they be fed? 

3. What is said about corn silage as a feed for the ewe? 

4. Should you feed moldy, spoiled or frozen silage? 

5. What is said about corn fodder or sorghum fodder as 
feed for your ewe? 

6. Name a good mixture to feed the ewe. How nuich should 
be fed at each time? 

7. What is said about keeping salt and water before the 
sheep ? 

(S. What is a lamb creep? 

!). How should a trough be made, and how should they be 
allowed to eat. 

10. If the ewe and lamb have all they can eat, at what age 
will the lamb be ready for market? 

Circuliu- No. 3. — Shocp. 

THE PASTURE FOR THE EWE AND LAMB. 

]5y LOUIS SAWYER. 

The ewe should have about one-fourth of an acre of 
permanent pasture. If you have a hilly pasture in northern 
Arkansas, mix the following amount of seed: Eight pounds of 
orchard grass, 2 pounds of blue grass and 1 pound of white 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



clover. This should be sown about the first of March after the 
ground has been plowed and finely harrowed into a good seed 
bed. It should be harrowed after seeding so the seed is not over 
an inch deep in the ground. 

In central and southern Arkansas you had better set out 
Bermuda sod. Small bunches of the sod should be set out about 
one foot apart in the row and the rows should be about one and 
one-half feet apart. This should be set out during the rainy 
season, during March, April or May. After the sod is set, sow 
about four pounds of white clover and ten pounds of bur clover 
in the bur. 

Sheep pasture should never be on wet ground. 

The first year the annual pastures may have to be used. 
Rape is one of the best annual sheep pastures. It will take about 
one-fourth acre of rape to furnish pasture for the ewe and lamb. 
Sow about 2 pounds of seed on this one-fourth acre after it has 
been plowed and finely harrowed. It should be seeded during 
March and harrowed in very shallow, so not any of the seed 
is over one-inch deep in the ground. There is danger of the 
ewe bloating on rape pasture. The only prevention is to turn 
the sheep on this pasture only when it is free from dew or frost, 
and to watch the animals very closely at all times. 

In the fall the winter pasture should be sown. On about 
one-fourth acre sow three-fourths of a bushel of rye. One 
bushel of oats may be sown instead of rye in central or southern 
Arkansas. The ground should be plowed and finely harrowed. 
If it can be drilled into the ground you are sure to secure a 
better stand. If it is sown it should be covered with the harrow. 
Do not cover any of the seed over an inch deep. This will 
furnish pasture most of the winter. Do not pasture it when 
the ground is wet. 

Alfalfa, red clover and sweet clover are not usually pastured 
with sheep. They are meadow grasses and should be cut for 
hay. There is a great danger of losing the sheep with bloat 
when pastured on the above meadow crops. 

Rotating the Pasture. — In summer the ewe and lamb should 
be changed from one part of the pasture to another about every 
two weeks. The reason for this is to prevent stomach worms and 
other parasites from being swallowed by the ewe and lamb. 
Most worms or parasites that injure the sheep will grow from 
cysts in the droppings. They are large enough to crawl to the 
end of the blades of grass in about two weeks. The lamb or ewe 
swallows the grass upon which the small worm is waiting. It 
is taken into the stomach and there grows about one inch long. 
All of these draw their nourishment from the lamb and ewe. 
When developed enough, it will weaken the anmial and in time 
cause its death. Thus the lamb and ewe must be placed on a 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

new i)asture every two weeks or before the worms grow large 
enough to crawl upon the bhides of grass. Many sheep are in- 
fested with stoniacli worms. The first precaution is to try to get 
a ewe that is not infected with parasites. Our western range 
sheep are freer from parasites than any other class of sheep. 
The pasture may be divided by movable panels to overcome the 
need of so many fences. 

QUESTIONS ON PASTURE FOR THE EWE AND LAMB. 

1. What sized pasture should the ewe have? 

2. Name a mixture for a permanent pasture in northern 
Arkansas. In central and southern Arkansas. 

3. Should sheep be kept on wet ground? 

4. Tell about rape as a pasture for sheep. 

5. How would you prepare the land and seed it? 

6. What should be sown in the fall for winter pasture? 

7. How would you prepare the land and seed it? 

8. Would you pasture alfalfa, red clover and sweet clover? 
Why? 

!). Can you name a way for rotating the pasture? 
10. Why should sheep not stay on the same pasture very 
long at a time? 

tMrculnr No. 1. — Slu'i'p. 

MANAGEMENT OF THE EWE IN FALL AND WINTER. 

Hy I.OLIS S.VWVKH. 

In the fall and winter our ell'orts will be to secure a good 
crop of lambs in the spring. The ewe should be gaining in 
weight from the time the flow of milk is stopped, after the lamb 
is weaned, until she lambs again in the spring. 

Time of Breeding. — The ewe should be bred about the last 
of September or fore part of October. She will carry her lamb 
about 147 days, and when bred in September, will lamb a few 
weeks before the grass starts to grow. It is preferable that the 
ewe lambs before she is turned on the pasture as on grass at 
lambing time the ewe ma> have udder trouble and the lamb may 
scour. 

Shelter. — The ewe must have a dry shetl to go under during 
the storms and a dry lot to slay in during clear weather. She 
should not be placed in a tight stall, but should have plenty of 
fresh air without being exposed to winter winds or drafts. Part 
of the feed should be fed in the dry lot during clear weather in 
order that she may get plenty of exercise. Dry bed footing 
and a (lr.\ bed are two essentials. 

Special care should be given to the ewe to prevent her 
from casting the lamb before it is mature. It is frequently 
causeil by crowding around the feed box, pushing through gates, 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



jumping over gutters or by rough handling. Before lambing the 
udder should be cleaned from dirt and all wool clipped off that 
will interfere with the lamb nursing. 

MANAGEMENT OF THE EWE DURING SPRING AND SUMMER. 

As the time of lambing approaches, the ewe should be 
watched very closely; she should not be disturbed during lamb- 
ing, but left quietly and should not know any one is around 
her. She should be watched closely enough to be able to give 
her any assistance she may need, providing there is any delay 
in giving birth to the lamb. 

If the ewe refuses to eat, droops her head and acts very 
sluggish at lambing time, it is usually a sign that the hnnb is dead. 
The lamb and the afterbirth should be taken from the ewe at 
once and the ewe washed with a solution of creoline, one part 
of creoline to 50 parts of water. As soon as the lamb is born, 
remove the mucous from the nostrils and mouth. If it does not 
begin to breathe, blow into the nostrils. Give the ewe at least 
a half hour to clean and dry the lamb. If she should have twins, 
be sure she cleans both of them. If she gives her attention to 
one hunb until it is cleaned, she may disown the other. Put 
them both before her. If she does not clean and dry the lamb, 
sprinkle a pinch of salt over it. 

A lamb in ordinary strength will soon try to nurse. If the 
lamb is weak, assist it, keeping the ewe still and holding the lamb 
up to nurse. If the hunb is too weak to nurse, feed it a little 
of the mother's milk with a spoon and wrap it in cloths warmed 
over a stove.. Alittle milk and warmth will soon give it sufficient 
strength to run with the mother. The ewe and hunb should be 
kept in a small pen by themselves for three days so they will 
become acquainted before they are put with the Hock. The 
udder of the ewe must be washed and milked out if the lamb 
does not take all the milk. Do not let the milk How decrease or 
let the milk spoil. If the lamb does not get sufficient milk, a 
little warm cow's milk should be fed it from a bottle until it is 
large enough to feed grain. 

QUESTIONS ON MANAGEMENT OF THE EWE IN FALL AND 

WINTER. 

1. In fall and winter, what should our eflorts be? 

2. What is said about a shelter for the ewe? 

3. How would you feed a weak lamb? 



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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CL UB MANUAL 

Circular No. 5. — Sheep. 

FURTHER MANAGEMENT OF THE EWE AND LAMB. 

By LOUIS SAWYER. 

Docking the Lambs. — This should be done when the lamb is 
about a week old. With sharp knife cut the tail off one inch or 
less from the body and between two joints. If the lamb is only 
about one week old, there will be very little loss of blood. If 
they are older, it may be avisable to tie a small string around 
the tail the first day. The docking should be done in cool 
weather and when the fleas are not numerous. 

Shearing the Ewe. — The ewe should be sheared when warm 
weather approaches. It should be late enough so she is not 
exposed to cold weather after she has lost her fleece, and it 
should be after the lamb is well started. Good shearing re- 
quires quick and quiet work, avoiding injury to the ewe and 
leaving the fleece together. Setting the ewe up between your 
legs with your left hand holding the front legs of the ewe, shear 
the belly by splitting the wool in the center. The left hand may 
be used to stretch the skin tight. Then turning the ewe slightly 
sideways, shear each side as near to the back as convenient to 
reach; then laying the ewe's head across your leg, shear the hind 
legs and rump. Then set the ewe up again, shear from between 
the legs to the jaw, gradually working each way until the head 
and neck is sheared. Then turning the ewe's feet toward you, 
shear the balance off the back that you could not reach from 
sides, and the fleece should be free from the ewe. The fleece 
should be folded by laying it on the floor, inside of fleece next 
to the floor, fold the sides in, and roll from the neck to other 
end. Tie with cotton or paper twine, wrapped once each way. 
A twine made of paper, especially for tying wool, called "India" 
three-ply, and size 4% is preferable to use. Never use binding 
twine or any twine from which fiber gets into the wool, as 
they lower its value. 

The ewe and lamb should always have access to salt. In 
the summer sulphur may be mixed with the salt — just enough 
sulphur to give the salt a slight yellow tinge. 

The sheep should have access to pure, fresh water at aTl 
times. 

A little tar should be applied on the nose of the sheep, or 
placed on the edge of the troughs so it will get on the nose during 
the months of July and August. This is to keep away the gadfly 
which deposits its eggs on the nostrils, and then hatches and de- 
velops into worms. 

A sheep should have access to shade during the day. 

The ewe lamb should be dipped in the spring after shearing, 
and again in the fall to kill all ticks. 

The lamb may be weaned about September 1st if not sold 
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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



before that date. By weaning about the 1st of September, the 
ewe has time to gain in condition and strength for the breeding 
season and to get in good shape to go through the winter. The 
lambs at that time are usually able to continue growth with very 
little set back. 

QUESTIONS ON FURTHER MANAGEMENT OF THE EWE AND 

LAMB. 

1. When should the lamb be docked? 

2. Tell all about shearing the ewe? 

3. Should the ewe and lamb have access to salt? 

4. When should they have sulphur? How much? 

5. Wliat good will tar applied to the nose of the sheep do? 

6. W'ould you want a shade in your pasture for your sheep? 

7. When should the lamb be dipped? 

8. When may the lamb be weaned? 



GIRLS' CLUBS. 

By MISS CONNIE J. BONSLAGEL, 
State Home Demonstration Agent. 

Lesson No. 1. — Canning Club. 

SELECTING THE PLOT. 

Canning Club members are required to select 1/10 of an acre, 
containing 4,356 square feet. It is highly avisable that this plot 
be in the shape of a rectangle, that is, long and narrow. A very 
convenient size to have the plot is 132 feet long by 33 feet wide. 
Having it in this shape will permit the use of a horse in culti- 
vating. 

Kind of Soil. 

Most soils will grow tomatoes, but the kind that gives the 
best results is a sandy loam, well-drained, fertile soil containing 
a large amount of humus or decayed vegetable matter. If the 
soil is not already fertile or does not contain the humus, it is 
well to apply two or three tons of well rotted barnyard manure 
io the 1/10 acre. This may be done in the fall or winter, or 
even in the early spring, but must be well worked into the soil, 
by breaking plow or harrow. 

Care should be taken not to select soil that has grown 
tomatoes the previous year if the tomatoes were diseased, and 
not to select soil where cotton has been injured by the root 
knot disease. 

Preparation of Seed Bed. 

It is not necessary that the land be broken in the fall un- 
less a cover crop is sown and turned under in the spring for 
humus, and it is not necessary to sow cover crops if the soil 

103 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

already contains a sufficient amount of humus. The land, how- 
ever, should be broken early in the spring to a depth of six to 
eight inches, and should be finely pulverized with a harrow 
soon after breaking in order that all possible moisture may be 
retained. 

The seed bed must have ilepth, drainage, must be well i)ul- 
verized, must be fertile and contain a large amount of humus if 
you expect your land to yield the greatest possible amount of 
tomatoes. A deep seed bed furnishes a large storehouse from 
which the tomato plants may secure their food. A well drained 
seed bed takes off surplus and unneeded water and permits the 
air to circulate well in the soil, and an abundance of humus 
puts life into the soil, absorbs and holds a large amount of mois- 
ture, so much needed by the plants. A well pulverized seed 
bed makes cultivation easy and retains moisture. No amount of 
cultivation of your tomatoes can make up for a i)oorly prepared 
seed be<l. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. How many scjuare feet in I/IO of an acre? 

2. Would you have the plot s([uare or rectangular? Why? 

3. What kind of soil is best adapted to tomato growing? 

4. W'hat special care should you use in selecting the soil? 

5. What is a well prepared seed bed? 

6. What is hunuis? Its value to the soil and how obtained? 

Lesson No. 2. — C.amiing Club. 

STARTING THE PLANTS. 

In onler to secure early tomatoes, and thus profit by the high 
price for early tomatoes as well as receive the beneht of early 
fruit yourself, it is necessary to start your plants in the winter 
by planting the seed in hot beds in rows two or three inches 
apart. 

How to xMake a Hot Bed. 

Select a location that will be well exposed to the sun. Dig 
a trench about 18 inches long, five feet and nine inches wide and 
six feet long. This will be large enough to grow an ample sup- 
ply of plants for the 1/10 acre. Fill the trench almost to the 
lop with fresh horse manure, and pack well by tamping. The 
manure furnishes the heat for germinting the seed and growing 
the plants. On top of this manure, spread a layer of rich, loamy 
soil about three or four inches deep. 

In making the frame for the bed, it should slope to the front 
and toward the south. A height of 15 or 18 inches at the back 
and about six inches lower at the front is desirable in order to 
shed the water and to get better results from the rays of the 
sun. It is better to cover this frame with regular hot bed sash, 

104 



BOYS' AND GIRL S' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

and if you have the frame five feet nine inches wide and six feet 
long, two ordinary hot bed sashes will cover it. By having the 
sash, it will permit the rays of the sunlight to reach the plants, 
and the temperature of the bed can better be regulated by use 
of sashes. However, if sashes cannot be secured, a canvas top 
may be used. For the first two or three days, the temperature 
of the hot bed will run very high, in fact, too high to plant the 
seed; hence you should wait about four or five days or until 
the temperature drops down to about 80 degrees before planting 
the seed. 

During the bright days, the bed will heat very quickly and 
it will be necessary to ventilate by raising the sash on the side 
opposite from the wind. In the evening close the sash in order 
to get the bed warm before night. Water the bed in the morn- 
ing on bright days, as watering in the evening on cloudy days 
will have a tendency to injure the plants and increase the dangei 
of freezing. Ventilate the bed after watering in order to dry ofl 
the plants. 

COLD FRAMES. 

Before the plants are put into the open, it is well to 
harden them ofi" and this is usually done by means of cold 
frames. The cold frame is built just like the hot bed except 
that it does not have the manure. Now it is not necessary to 
build a cold frame for if your hot bed is large enough, it may 
serve as a cold frame by simply raising the sash and letting the 
air and sunlight in. As the plants grow larger and become 
hardened, the sash may be kept open at night when there is no 
danger of frost, but remember that the hardening off process 
must be done gradually to prevent any serious check to the 
growth. 

If neither hot beds nor cold frames are used, boxes may be 
used. Fill them with rich loamy earth and keep them in the 
house at a temperature of about 70 degrees. Be sure to keep 
plenty of moisture in the boxes as the moisture will evaporate 
faster in the house than if it were in the open; however, the 
use of boxes is not recommended unless it is absolutely impos- 
sible to have the hot bed. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Why do you want early tomatoes? How should you 
start to secure them? 

2. What is a hot bed? 

3. How would you make a hot bed? 

4. What is a cold frame and what is it used for? How is 
it made? 

5. In what other ways may tomato plants be started? 

6. Do you have a hot bed? May a hot bed be used for other 
purposes? 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Lesson No. 3. — Canning Club. 

TRANSPLANTING INTO THE OPEN FIELD. 

Before transplanting into the open, be sure that your seed 
bed is well pulverized and in good condition. This may be ac- 
complished by running your harrow or drag just previous to 
setting the plants. 

If your seed bed is well drained, the plants should be set 
nearly on a level. One of the best ways is to take a small shovel 
plow and open a furrow and set the plants therein. Let your 
rows be four feet apart, running the long way with the plot, and 
your plants three feet in the row. If no plow is available, the 
plants may be set out at the above distance by simply making 
holes and setting the plants in them. 

In removing the plants from the hot bed or boxes wherever 
they have been started, dampen the soil in order that as much 
of the soil as possible may adhere to the roots of the plants. If 
the plants have been growing in tin cans, as is sometimes done, 
the whole amount of earth in the can may be held together by 
saturating the soil with water before taking out the plants. Set 
the plants deep into the soil, in fact, up to the top leaf. This 
will give you strong, healthy, stalky plants. 

Do not set the plants into the open until all danger of frost 
is past. On cloudy days or in the afternoon is a good time to set 
the plants, but it need not necessarily be during wet weather as 
some people seem to think. 

If the soil is inclined to be dry, water may be poured around 
the plants at the time of setting, but loose earth should then be 
placed around the plant. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. When is a safe time to put the plants out? 

2. At what distance do you put the rows? The plants in 
the rows? 

3. How many plants will there be in the 1/10 acre at these 
distances? 

4. What time of the day is best for setting plants? Why? 

5. Would you remove the soil from the roots of the plants 
before setting? 

6. How may you hold a large amount of soil on the roots? 

7. May plants be set during dry weather? Would you 
water the plants then? 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



Lesson No. 4. — Canning Club. 

STAKING, PRUNING AND CULTIVATING. 

In order to get earlier, larger and better quality of tomatoes, 
it is advisable to stake and prune your tomatoes. By "staking" 
the tomatoes is meant tying the plants to a small pole or stake 
one or two inches in diameter and about five or six feet high. This 
IS done to prevent the plants from lying on the ground as they 
continue to grow. If staking is to be done, and it is recom- 
mended for Tomato Club Girls, it should be done when the 
plants are about six to eight inches high. The stake should be 
set firmly into the ground about four inches from the plant on 
the side of the plant opposite to the sun. As the plant grows in 
height, it should be tied to the stake with a soft string. Four 
or five tyings may be necessary before the plant reaches its full 
growth. Staking should not be done, however, unless you in- 
tend to prune your tomatoes. 

By "pruning" tomatoes is meant removing the suckers and 
developing, if possible, one large stem as the main body of the 
plant. The growth that would naturally go into the suckers 
will then go to the main body of the plant and in the fruiting 
limbs. 

HOW TO PRUNE. 

1. Find the first blossom on your tomato plant. 

2. Find the first branch below the first bloom. (Call it 
No. 1.) 




A Well-staked Tomato Garden. — The Aim of Every Canning Club Girl. 

107 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

3. Pinch off or cut off all branches below No. L All 
branches below the first are the suckers referred to. 

CULTIVATION. 

Cultivation is done for two reasons: First, to keep down 
all vegetation; second to retain moisture and permit the circu- 
lation of the air in the soil; hence cultivation should begin almost 
at the time of setting the plants in order to prevent the weeds 
or grass from getting a hold and in order to hold the moisture. 

Early cultivation may be done by the use of a horse and any 
sort of implement that will accomplish the desired end. Small 
harrows are good and will usually destroy all early vegetation 
antl will leave the ground in a well pulverized and level condi- 
tion. The entire surface of the soil should be stirred, hence 
it may be necessary to use a hand rake or hoe in order to get 
close up to the plant. Common judgment must determine just 
what is the best sort of implement to use in accomplishing 
the two purposes mentioned in the beginning for cultivation. 

At no time should the grass and weeds get a hold or at no 
time should a crust be allowed to form; hence cultivation should 
be done at least every week or 10 days and always after each rain 
as soon as the soil is sufficiently dry. Cultivation should also 
be continued for some length of time, or in fact as long as the 
tomato plants continue to yield, which will be late in the sum- 
mer if proper care has been given the plant by keeping down 
diseases, insects, etc. 

QUESTIONS. 

L What is meant by staking tomato plants? How is it 
done? 

2. What advantage is there in staking them? 

3. What is meant by pruning tomato plants? How do you 
prune? 

4. What advantage is there in pruning? 

5. If you do not prune the tomatoes, would you stake them? 

6. Why do you cultivate? How often? How late? 

Lesson No. 5. — Canning Club. 

INSECTS OF TOMATOES. 
Cut Worms. 

The first insect you may have trouble with may probably 
be the cut worm, with which most of us are familiar. A good 
remedy for destroying cut worms is poison bait placed so as to 
kill the worms before transplanting. Have nothing green growing 
on the plot about two weeks before planting, and this, I am sure, 
will be the case with most of us. Take cabbage leaves, bunches 
of clover or weeds and dip into a solution of paris green made 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

by mixing one tablespoonful of paris green in a bucket of water. 
Scatter these over the plot in the evening for two or three days 
before transplanting. Another poison which can be used as a 
bait after the plants are set out is a mash made by mixing one 
peck of bran and two cups of cheap molasses with one ounce 
(two tablespoonfuls) of paris green, and enough water to mois- 
ten the mixture. This should be placed in small baits near the 
plants. Remember that paris green is poison and should be 
handled with great care. Do not allow chickens or other 
animals to eat this poison bait. Another way which possibly 
you may have tried is to wrap each plant when transplanted 
with a bit of paper which extends about one inch above and 
one inch below the surface of the ground. 

Flea Beetle. 

Another insect which may attack your plant is the flea 
beetle, a tiny, black, jumping beetle which feeds upon the tissues 
of the leaves. Any one of the following remedies is good for 
the ilea beetle: First, dust the plants thickly with ashes; second, 
dust the plants thickly with air slacked lime; third, dust the 
plants slightly with snuff; fourth, dust the plants slightly with 
one part paris green with one hundred parts of flour; tifth, 
sprinkle the plants with a mixture of one teaspoonful of Merry 
War lye to one gallon of water. 

Potato Bugs. 

When Colorado potato bugs are beginning to destroy the 
plants, use one of the following: Pick off the first large bugs 
and destroy them; look for eggs on under side of leaves, pick 
off part of leaves that have them on; dust the plants with one 
part paris green to five parts tlour or lime, or better still, dust 
the plants with powdered arsenate of lead. 

Tobacco Worms. 

If the big, green-horned tobacco worms injure your plants, 
pick them off and kill them at once. Watch for these closely 
or else they may do a great deal of damage to the plants. In 
fighting these insects that injure plants, one must keep in mind 
that all insects of this nature can be killed in one or two ways, 
tlepending upon the habits of the insects. Those insects that 
bite and actually eat the tissues of plants can be killed by the 
use of poison baits as has been suggested. Those insects that 
injure the plants by sucking their juices, as do the bugs and 
plant lice, can be killed by external poison which comes in 
contact with their bodies. This is done by spraying, but in order 
to fight insects successfully one should know the habits of 
the insects they are fighting in order that they may know the 
kind of weapon to use. 

109 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Name some of the coiiiiiion insects. How do you con- 
trol them? 

2. Have you had trouble with insects? How did you fight 
them ? 

3. How do you kill insects that bite and actually cat the 
plant? 

4. How do you kill insects that suck the juices of the 
plants? 

Lesson No. 6. — Canning Clnb. 

RULES FOR PREVENTING TOMATO DISEASE. 

Hy MISS MARY CRES^VELL, \yashington, D. C. 

1. Rotation of Crops. — Do not plant tomatoes in the same 
soil oftener than once in three years. Find what crop was on 
the land last year and look out for diseases of other plants 
which may also infect tomatoes. One of the most serious of 
these is root-knot which occurs in sandy soils. You can tell 
it by the knots or galls on the roots. These are caused by very 
tiny worms called nematodes. Root-knot attacks cotton, cow- 
peas, melons, okra, beets, tomatoes, potatoes and other plants. 
Soil can only be freed from this pest by planting it for two or 
three years in crops which are not attacked by the root-knot, 
such as iron cowpeas, corn, oats, velvet beans and peanuts. Be 
sure that you do not plant your tomatoes where any crop was 
infected with root-knot last year. 

2. Avoid Use of Fresh Manure. — If you did not have well 
rotted manure plowed under last fall, it will be best not to use 
any. LTsing fresh manure in the spring will probably cause 
disease among your plants. 

3. Spray healthy plants with Bordeaux mixture to protect 
from disease. 

4. Keep plants in good condition by careful cultivation, 

5. Pull up and burn all diseased plants promptly. 

Spraying Tomatoes. — To get the best results with Bordeaux 
mixture spraying should be begun while the plants are young. 
Spray once about five days before transplanting, then again five 
days after transpL.nting and repeat every ten days until the fruit 
is full grown. A hard rain will frecjuently wash oil" the mixture 
and make it necessary to spray again. Five sprayings should 
be given during the season. Ten gallons of spray mixture will 
be necessary for each spraying. Five pounds blue-stone and 
five pounds of fresh stone lime will be enough for the season. 
Secure these supplies at the beginning of the season. Have the 
blue-stone divided into five one-pound lots. The entire quantity 

110 



BOYS' AND GIRL S' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

of lime may be slacked at the beginning by adding water slowly 
until all the lumps are slacked. Keep this slacked lime in a 
bucket with a little water over it. As long as it is covered with 
water it is good, but if it is exposed to the air it will dry out 
and become air slacked. Lime which has been air slacked can- 
not be used in Bordeaux mixture. 

Bordeaux Mixture. — How to make for each spraying. 

Copper sulphate (blue-stone) 1 pound. 

Quick lime 1 pound. 

Water 10 gallons. 

Blue-Stone Solution. — Put 5 gallons of water in a wooden 
tub. Tie the blue-stone in a coarse sack and hang it in this 
water near the top. Do not use a metal vessel because the action 
of the blue-stone on the metal will ruin the vessel. Allow several 
hours for the blue-stone to dissolve. This can be done more 
quickly by using hot water. 

Lime Solution. — Take one-fifth of the lime which has been 
slacked by water and mix it thoroughly in 5 gallons of water. 

Mixing. — Bordeaux mixture is made out of equal parts of 
these two solutions. It is important that they be carefully mixed, 
and that only as much of the mixture be made as can be 
used at one spraying. Have the lime solution in one vessel and 
the copper sulphate solution in another. Have ready a third tub 
or other wooden vessel. Stir the solution well before using. 
Let two people pour the two solutions into the third vessel 
at the same time, stirring constantly to insure thorough mixing. 
Always stir the Bordeaux mixture before putting into the 
sprayer. 

To be of value, spraying must be thoroughly done. The 
spray mixture must cover the under side of the leaves as well 
as the upper. 

For the tenth acre, a bucket spray pump costing about $3.00, 
or a knapsack sprayer costing about $5.00, will be satisfactory. 
Every farm should have one of these sprays, which can be used 
for many purposes and will more than pay for itself in one 
year. Wash the spray pump thoroughly after each using. 

You will find below a chart which gives a description of 
some of the more important diseases of the tomato and ways 
of preventing them. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Name some methods of preventing tomato diseases. 

2. Have your tomatoes been injured by any of the diseases? 

3. How do you make the Bordeaux mixture? 

4. What is it used for? 

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BOYS' AND GIRL S' AGRICULTURAL CLU B MANUAL 

Lesson No. 7. — Canning Club. 

OTHER VEGETABLES. 

(From U. S. Department of xS.griculture.) 

Canning Club girls who do not wish to plant the entire 1/10 
acre in tomatoes may plant other vegetables, such as okra, beans 
and peppers, and this is sometimes highly advisable where there 
is not a ready market for tomatoes, either fresh or canned. 
Then, too, beans and okra can be canned to a good advantage 
and okra is easily combined with tomatoes in making soup mix- 
tures. 

For growing beans and okra, the same general directions 
of preparation of soil, fertilization and cultivation as given for 
the tomato, will be satisfactory. The seed of these two crops 
may be planted as soon as the soil has begun to warm up and 
all danger of frost is over. For a continuous supply of these 
vegetables, successive plantings, four or five weeks apart, should 
be made. 

OKRA. 

Plant seed 3 or 4 inches apart in rows 3^2 to 4 feet apart 
and cover to the depth of 1 to 2 inches according to the soil — 
the lighter the soil the deeper the seed should be planted. As 
soon as the plants are well established, thin to 12 to 14 inches 
apart for dwarf varieties and 18 to 24 inches for the larger 
growing varieties. The pods should be gathered when they are 
tender and this will ordinarily require picking every day. The 
varieties most commonly grown are the tall green long pod, 
tall green short pod, dwarf green long pod, dwarf short pod 
and the Lady Finger. 

BEANS. 

Plant the seed 2 to 4 inches apart in rows 2V2 to 3 feet apart 
and cover 1^2 to 2 inches deep. There are two types of bush 
beans grown in the gardens in this country — the wax and the 
green pod. The green pod is the better type for canning. The 
Stringless Green Pod and Refugee are the best canning varieties. 

PEPPERS. 

Cultivation. — The pepper plant is very similar to the tomato 
as to the conditions most favorable for its development and is 
even more sensitive, particularly when young, to checks in growth 
from cold, wet or unfavorable conditions of soil. In order to 
get the best returns it is important that there be an unchecked 
growth from the time of starting the seed until the fruit has 
ripened. Not infrequently large vigorous plants will yield but 
very little fruit, and usualy this can be traced to a cold, hard, 
ill-drained soil or to a check in the growth of the young plant 
from cold. It is wisest, then, to make sure of well drained soil, 
to put it into the best possible mechanical condition, and to delay 

113 



BOYS' AND GIRLS ' AGRICUL TURAL CLUB MANUAL 

planting until one can be reasonably certain of constant warm 
weather with the least possible danger from cold or wet. Very 
satisfactory crops are often grown from seed planted in place 
in the open field, but there is much greater probability of a good 
yield from the use of started plants and very often the profit 
is determined by the character of the plant set. 

Growing Plants. — In a general way the best soil to use is 
one made up of 1/3 by bulk of garden soil, 1/3 of well rotted 
manure and 1/3 of coarse-grained sand, but the best 
proportion of each will vary with its character. If 
the soil is heavy and compact, use less soil and more 
sand; if it is sandy, use more soil and less sand. If the manure 
is heavy and poorly rotted, take pains to make it as light as pos- 
sible and use a larger proportion. It is important that the in- 
gredients be well mixed, which can best be accomplished by 
throwing them into a conical heap, shoveling this over, and 
then passing it through a coarse sieve of about a half inch 
mesh. Carefully level about 2 to 3 inches of this soil in a shal- 
low box and water as thoroughly as possible without making 
it actually muddy. Let it stand for at least an hour and then 
add about one-half inch of fresh soil, and in this plant the seed 
either in drills about %-inch deep or scatter over the surface 
and evenly cover with from % to Mi-inch of the fresh earth. 
If the box is to be exposed to the sun it is well to cover it 
with a paper, but care must be taken to remove this before the 
young plants appear, which they should do in from 7 to 12 
days. The box should be kept where the temperature can be 
held as uniformly as possible at 60 to 80 degrees F, It might 
run higher in midday, but germination will be checked in pro- 
portion as it runs lower. 

Care should be taken that the young plants are not allowed 
to be so crowded as to become bleached and tender. It is better 
to pull and transplant or even throw away some plants rather 
than have the whole planting permanently injured. As soon as 
the central bud is well developed the seedlings should be trans- 
planted, setting them from 1 to 3 inches apart, according to the 
size at which it is planned that they should go into the perma- 
nent place in the field. Care should be taken that the soil of 
the plant bed is such that there is little danger of its becoming 
compact and hard, but will remain so friable as to enable the 
plants to be pulled for setting with the least possible injury to 
the roots. During the germination of the seed and the growth 
of the young plants, carefully avoid overwatering. Don't water 
unless the plants show by a tendency to wilt that they need it; 
then give an abundance. It is much better if this be done in 
the morning or evening rather than in midday. For five or six 
davs before transplatning, allow the beds to get as dry as pos- 

114 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



sible without the plants wilting; then 8 to 12 hours before the 
plants are to go to the field give the bed an abundant watering. 
In the meantime the soil of the field should have been made as 
friable as possible by repeated cultivation. After setting the 
plants, give the field a thorough cultivation, which should be 
repeated as often as practicable without injuring the plants. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Is it necessary for canning club girls to plant their entire 
1/10 acre in tomatoes? 

2. "What other vegetables are recommended? 

3. Why are these vegetables recommended for the 1/10 of 
acre? 

4. Tell how you would start pepper plants. 

Lesson. No. 8. — Canning Club. 

HOW TO MAKE A HOME-MADE CANNER. 

1. Take a washpot, reservoir, or lard can and in- 
sert therein, as a tray for holding cans or jars, a false 
bottom of wooden strips, one inch wide by one-eighth 
inch thick, nailed together like lattice work. If an or- 
dinary size washpot is used, a false bottom should be 
made large enough to hold six or eight quart jars. A 
lid should be provided for the washpot or whatever is 
used for cooking purposes, and enough water should be 
added after the false bottom and jars are placed in to 
come to the lid of a Mason jar. 

2. Another cheap outfit for use, and one which is 
very practical, consists of a wornout zinc tub to be used 
as a furnace. Cut the bottom out of this tub, cut a door 
about six inches square on one side, and on the other 
side cut a hole large enough for the elbow of a stove- 
pipe. Add two joints of pipe and your furnace will be 

completed. On top of this tub place a good zinc 
tub, allowing the rim to fit over the one used as 
a furnace. This tub is the reservoir. Inside 
this tub place another tub of the same size and 
cut in the bottom eight holes about the size of a 
quarter of a dollar. Take care that this tub 
does not extend more than one inch above the 
top of the reservoir tub. This is the tray in 
which to place cans or jars when ready for 
cooking. No. 2 or No. 3 size tubs should be 
used for the furnace. A sugar barrel cover may 
be used for a lid and the efficiency of the entire 
outfit may be increased by connecting two one- 
inch pipes to the bottom of the tub used as a 
reservoir, as this increases the heating capacity. 
115 




A Handy Home-made 
Canner. 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

List of Companies from Which Canners May Be Purchased. 

Homer Canner Co., Hickory, N. C; Farm Canning Machine 
Co., Meridian, Miss.; George L. Eubanks, Union City, Ga.; The 
Rainey Canner Co., Chappel, N. C, and Texarkana, Ark.; Dixie 
Canner Co., (steam canner) Little Rock, Ark.; Hamp Williams, 
Hot Springs, Ark.; E. S. Stahl Canner Co., Quincy, 111.; Modern 
Canner Manufacturing Co., Chattanooga, Tenn.; American Can 
Co., Atlanta, Ga. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Describe how to make a home-made canner. 

2. If there are more ways than one, describe each. 

3. About what will be the cost of making a canner from 
the use of zinc tubs? 

4. What sort of canner do you use? 

5. What is the difterence between a hot water canner and 
a steam canner? 

Lesson No. 9. — Canning Club. 

CANNING. 

(From States Relation Service Bulletin No. A-81.) 

It is important that you get ready for the canning season 
by securing in advance supplies such as jars, cans with solder- 
hemmed caps, canning outfit, etc., so that you will allow nothing 
to go to waste. It is also of the greatest importance that you 
study your instructions and follow the advice of your County 
Agent carefully that your products may be of fine quality. Club 
members must follow these instructions for canning so that all 
products may be imiform and of standard pack. Tack these 
rules up by you as you work and observe every one of them. 
Remember that the 4-H Brand label can be used only on the 
best and that every can you pack must come up to these stand- 
ards if sold. By so doing you can secure a good market and 
sustain your reputation for fine products. 

The United States Food and Drugs Act requires that foods 
in package form which are shipped from one State to another 
should have the (luantity of the contents plainly and conspicu- 
ously marked. This applies to canned fruits and vegetables, in 
which case the net weight should be stated in pounds and 
ounces. Many States have similar requirements. It is illegal 
to sell a package containing less than the net weight stated 
on the label. The directions in this circular enable you not only 
to comply with Federal requirements, but also to produce the 
quality required for standard products. 

PREPARATIONS FOR CANNING IN TIN. 

Making Flux.— Put some commercial hydrochloric (muriatic) 
acid into a glass or crockery vessel (not metal) add strips of 

116 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

sheet zinc until no more can be dissolved. To this add an equal 
quantity of water. Label this "flux" and use carefully. When 
canning, have one vessel (a can will do) with enough flux in it 
to clean the tools. Keep separately in a glass bottle the quantity 
to be used in sealing cans. 

Cleaning and Tinning the Steel and Copper. — It is of first 
importance to have the capping steel and tipping copper in 
good condition. These may need to be rubbed with coarse sand- 
paper or on a soft brick to smooth them, or the steel may have to 
be filed to take the rust off. In the latter case care must be 
taken to keep the edge of the steel true. Both the capping steel 
and tipping copper must be kept tinned or coated with solder 
to make the solder flow evenly when sealing. Have ready in 
a can a handful of salamoniac mixed with a few pieces of solder. 
Heat the already smoothed capping steel or tipping copper until 
almost red hot, dip into the flux, then into the salamoniac and 
solder, turning it about and rubbing until bright and well coated 
with solder. Then dip into the flux again. 

Preparation of Vegetables. — In securing a fine quality, much 
depends upon having the vegetables or fruit absolutely fresh, 
crisp and clean, and kept cool. All surroundings and utensils 
should be spotlessly clean, and all operations from beginning to 
end of any lot of canning should be carried on as rapidly as 
possible. A good slogan is "One hour from the field to the can." 
First have cans and lids thoroughly washed and scaled. Sort 
and grade the fruit, discarding all defective ones, and use to- 
gether those of the same size. Use only uniformly well ripened 
products. Only young, tender, quickly grown vegetables retain 
their flavor when canned. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What are the absolutely essential steps to be taken in 
successful canning? 

2. Wliat is meant by the 4-H Brand? 

3. Should care be taken in the use of this brand? 

4. Are there any State laws regarding canning? 

5. Are there United States laws, and what are they? 

6. What are the three steps in the preparation of can- 
ning in tin? 

7. Wliat is meant by the term "flux" and how is it made? 
What is it used for? 

8. What is meant by cleaning and tinning the steel and 
copper? 

9. What is the capping steel? W^hat is tipping copper? 

10. W^hy is it necessary to use great care in cleaning the 
capping steel and tipping copper? 

11. What care should be taken in selecting the fruit or veg- 
etables? 

117 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

12. In what condition must the fruit or vegetables be for 
canning? 

13. In what condition must the utensils be? 

14. What about the general surroundings? 

15. Is there any better place to practice sanitation than in 
canning? 

K). Are you successful in canning fruits and vegetables? 
If not, why? 

Lesson No. 10. — Canning Clul). 

STEPS TAKEN IN CANNING IN TIN. 

(From States Relation Service Bulletin No. A-81.) 

1. Sorting and grading fruit or vegetables, washing, peel- 
ing, etc. 

2. Scalding, Peeling-, and Coring (for tomatoes.) — Put into 
trays and lower into boiling water for one minute. Remove 
at once to prevent cooking. Plunge into cold water to make 
the fruit firm, and peel promptly. In tomato peeling use a 
slender pointed knife to cut out the core and be careful not to 
cut into the seed cells. Keep the tomatoes whole when possible. 

3. Blanching consists of plunging the vegetables or fruit 
into boiling water for a short time. Use a wire basket or cheese 
cloth sciuare for this. The blanch gives a more thorough clean- 
ing, removes the strong odor and flavor from certain kinds of 
vegetables, improve the texture, and insures a clearer liquor. 
It also shrinks the fruit or vegetable and makes it more flexible. 
A full pack is then more easily made. The time required for 
blanching varies with the state of maturity. Beans should be 
blanched until tender enough to bend without breaking. Peaches 
will pack better if quickly blanched by lowering of 15 seconds 
into water below boiling, (about 180 degrees F.) The same blanch 
will make the hard varieties of pears pack better and give them 
a more transparent appearance, and used for cherries, will pre- 
vent splitting and cracking. Spraying fruit with cold water 
after blanching will make it firmer. Frequently it is well to 
put the vegetables into cold water for an instant after blanching 
to make more crisp. In blanching asparagus, tie a few stalks 
in each bundle, lower the bundle into the water, tips up, blanch- 
ing the lower ends one or two minutes before immersing the 
tips. Blanch the tips only two or three minutes. 

Packing. — (See table for size of cans to use for dift'erent 
vegetables.) — The Federal law requires the cans to be filled as 
full of food as is practicable for processing and to contain only 
enough liquor to fill the spaces and cover the contents. Weigh 
a sufficient number of cans before and after filling to obtain an 
accurate idea of average net weight. On account of expansion 

118 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



in processing, corn can be packed less full than other vegetables. 
These instructions do not cover the canning of corn for market. 
Mark the cans with a pencil or knife to show contents. Plan in 
advance and work rapidly. Let one person do the packing and 
another attend to the weighing. Do not allow fdled cans to 
stand before adding liquor and exhausting. To do so will injure 
the product. 

5. Adding Brine, Sirup or Water.— After adding to within 
^-inch of top, shake the can gently to displace all air within 
it. Now clean and wipe the groove around the opening. Slip 
on the cap and weigh before sealing to be sure of having the 
required weight. 

6. Fluxing and Capping. — Apply the flux carefully around 
the groove, making sure that none of it enters the can. Use a 
small brush or card, or little mop made by tying a piece of clean 
white cloth around the end of a small stick. The flux is used 
to make the solder adhere to the tin. Apply the clean, hot cap- 
ping steel, holding the cap in place with the center rod, while 
you lower the steel, turn it steadily until the solder ilows. Hold 
the rod firmly and lift steel with a sudden twist to swing 
the melted solder around the groove evenly. 

7. Exhausting. — Place the cans in trays and lower into 
boiling water to within one inch of the top to drive the air out 
of the cans. Let them stay in the shortest possible time neces- 
sary to drive out the air. Ordinarily three minutes is enough, 
and the temperature need not again reach boiling before cans 
are taken out. Frequently exhausting is done at 180 degrees F. 
Exhausting is necessary. If omitted, the air left in the can 
expands ,causing it to bulge. The can may not resume normal 
shape again, or if it does and is exposed to a warmer tempera- 
ture it may again expand, giving the appearance of a "swell." 
This will not only prevent sale of that can, but may also cut off 
future orders. Furthermore, the presence of air may cause the 
tin to dissolve more rapidly and enter into the food. Exhausting 
is required where the 4-H Brand label is used. 

8. Tipping. — Close the small hole in top of the can imme- 
diately after exhausting. Apply flux as for capping, and use a 
little wire solder to close the hole. Hold the solder with left 
hand near the hole and barely touch the hot copper to it, so 
that only a bead will drop and cover the hole. This makes a 
neat tip. 

9. Processing.— Boil the cans which have been exhausted 
and tipped to sterilize the contents. Have the water boiling 
vigorously when the cans go in. Lower the cans slowly under 
the water and look out for any showers of bubbles from a can. 
These show that it leaks at the point from which the bubbles 
come and must be taken out and resoldered. Begin counting time 

119 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

when the water first boils after immersing the cans. Keep it 
boiling constantly. In intermittent processing, the vegetable is 
processed for one hour on each of three successive days. The 
time is sometimes reduced to two days with very young string 
beans and some other more easily sterilized vegetables. It is 
not possible to state the shortest time which may be used safely 
because of the varying conditions. 

10. Cooling. — Cool all canned products as quickly as pos- 
sible to stop the cooking, which breaks down and injures the 
flavor and color. Plunge the cans into very cold water imme- 
diately, especially when processing intermittently. Never stack 
cans close together until entirely cold. 

11. Labeling.— After 8 to 10 days, or innnediately before 
selling, label all cans. Place the sealed end down so that the 
opposite end will appear at the top when placed on the shelf. 
Use a rather dry paste and put it only on the end of the label 
so that no paste will touch the tin. If paste touches the can, it 
may cause rust. Where a damp climate causes cans to rust 
easily, the outside of the can may be lacquered before being 
labeled. Club members may use the 4-H Brand label only on 
first class goods. They must put net weight in pounds and 
ounces and packer's name and address on each can. Every 
girl thus guarantees her own goods. 

QUESTION" 

1. How many steps are required in canning in tin? 

2. What is done in the first step? Second step? 

3. What is meant by "blanching" and how is it done? 
Why? 

4. What care must be used in packing, and how should the 
weight of the contents be shown? 

5. How full should the can be before adding brine? 

6. Describe how to apply the flux? 

7. Describe the process of packing. 

8. What is meant bv "exhausting" and how is it done? 
Why? 

9. W'hat is meant by "tipping" and how is it done? 

10. What is meant by "processing?" W^hat is meant by "in- 
termittent processing?" 

11. Why is it necessary to cool the canned products quickly, 
and what is a good way? 

12. On what kind of a pack should the 4-H Brand label 
be placed? 

Note. — The above questions, with many others, should be brought out 
while performing the actual operation of canning. Why not have the pupils 
to make a home-made canner and bring in samples of fruits and vegetables 
to be canned? 

120 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Lesson No. 11. — Canning Club. 

BRINING AND SEASONING. 

(From State's Relation Bulletin No. A-87.) 

Brine, sirup, or water are added immediately after packing 
to such fruits and vegetables as need to be surrounded by a 
liquid either for proper preparation or for purpose of steriliza- 
tion. No more liquor is allowed than is actually necessary to 
cover the contents after as full a pack as possible is made. 
All 4-H Brand tomatoes have a mixture of sugar and salt added. 
Mix this in the proportions of one-third salt and two-thirds 
sugar and put two level teaspoonfuls in each No. 3 can of 
tomatoes and one teaspoonful in each No. 2 can. Use this 
for peas, lima beans and corn. It is required that all products 
to be sold be packed with sirup or brine indicated, so as to 
come up to the standard. The flavor of the product is much 
superior to those without sugar or salt. In canning tomatoes, 
no addition of tomato juice in excess of the amount present in 
the tomatoes canned is allowed. Any water is considered an 
adulteration. In canning tomatoes in glass for exhibits and 
home use, when it is desirable to keep the tomatoes whole, they 
may be packed carefully and a thick liquor poured over them. 
This may be obtained by cooking smaller or broken tomatoes 
and putting through a sieve. Brine for beans, okra, cauliflower, 
etc., should contain 2V2 ounces salt to a gallon of water. For 
asparagus a heavier briu. 4 ounces to a gallon of water, is 
needed. 

STANDARDS FOR 4-H BRAND CANNED VEGETABLES. 

Tomatoes. — Cans to contain not less than 2 pounds 1 ounce 
tomatoes in No. 3 and not less than 1 pound 4 ounces tomatoes 
in No. 2. To be fdled with sound, ripe fruit, carefully peeled 
and cored; tomatoes to be whole or in large pieces, firm, uni- 
formly red, and of good flavor. 

Tomatoes and Green Pepper. — Cans to contain not less than 
2 pounds packed in No. 3 cans. For this pack add 1 medium size 
green sweet pepper, after removing the stem and seeds, to each 
can tomatoes. 

String Beans. — Net weight in No. 3 can before liquor is 
added at least 1 pound 8 ounces, brine 8 to 10 ounces. Net 
weight No. 2, 13 ounces beans and about 8 ounces liquor. Beans 
to be tender, green, uniform in size, well strung and of good 
flavor. Liquor clear. The net weight which appears on label 
should be No. 3, 2 pounds, for No. 2, 1 pound 5 ounces. 

Peas. — No. 2 cans to have at least 13y2 ounces net weight of 
peas and about 8V2 ounces liquor — peas to be fairly uniform 
in size, tender, whole, and of good flavor; liquor clear. Net 
weight appearing on label should be for No. 2 cans, 1 pound 8 
ounces. 

121 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Baby Beets. — To be packed in No. 2 lacquered tins, about 
30 baby beets to each can, maximum size IV2 inches in diameter 
and average size 1 inch in diameter. No. 2 can to have at least 
16 ounces whole beets and 4 ounces liquid. Net weight on label 
should be for No. 2 can 1 pound 4 ounces. 

Okra.- — Net weight of contents in No. 3 can should appear 
on label 2 pounds. Only young, tender okra should be packed, 
and it is best to simply remove the cap without cutting into the 
seed pod and pack it whole. Brine is added as explained in 
the table. 

Peppers. — No. 2 cans to contain between 8 and 10 whole 
peppers. Flat No. 1 cans to contain 4 or 5 whole peppers and net 
weight of contents appearing on the label should be for No. 2 
can not less than 1 pound, or flat No. 1 can not less than 8 ounces. 

Soup Mixture. — This should consist of a mixture which is 
made in the proportion of one-half tomato pulp, one-fourth corn 
or tiny lima beans, and one-fourth okra with seasoning added. 
One slice of onion 2 inches in diameter should be ad<led to each 
No. 2 can. The tomatoes should be heated, rubbed through a 
sieve and cooked down to about the consistency of ketchup 
before measuring; then the corn, okra, onion, and seasoning 
should be added and cooked until the corn ami okra are about 
three-fourths done. Then pack into cans and follow directions 
as given in the table in lesson 12. Net weight of contents ap- 
pearing on label of No. 2 can should be 1 pound 4V2 ounces. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. For what purpose is brine, sirup or water added? 

2. Describe how the sirup is made and how the brine is 
made. 

3. Name the standard weights for the 4-H Brand for toma- 
toes, beans, peas, baby beets, okra, peppers, soup mixtures. 

Lesson No. 12. — Canning Club. 

PREPARATION FOR CANNING IN GLASS. 

(From States Relation Service Bulletin No. A-81.) 

Jars. — The glass top jar with wire clamp is the best type of 
jar for use in intermittent processing. If products are to be 
sold, a good connnercial jar is necessary, (^onnnercial jars 
when purchased in gross quantities are cheaper than house- 
hold jars and can be chosen in appropriate size for each 
product. A 10 or 12 ounce jar with glass top and screw rim 
can be effectively used for preserves, jams, pickles, etc. An- 
other good type of commercial jar is one with hermetic cap 
and can be had in dilferent sizes for various products. A 4 
ounce size is suitable for individual service, a 10 ounce size 

122 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



for general use. Assemble all supplies and utensils such as 
jars, new rubbers and lids, wooden spoons, paddles, one-half 
pint measuring cup, measuring spoons, paring knives, sugar, 
salt, soda, etc., in a clean convenient place in which to work. 

STEPS TO BE TAKEN IN CANNING IN GLASS. 

The steps, 1, 2 and 3 under "Canning in Tin" are also to be 
followed when packing in glass. Sterilize jars by placing them 
in a vessel, side down, covering with cold water, bringing to 
a boil and boiling for 15 minutes. 

4. Packing. — After selecting fruit or vegetables for uni- 
formity in size and quality (see score) it should be arranged 
with reference to symmetry and the best use of the space within 
the jar. In placing the fruit or vegetables in a jar, a thin, 
slender, flexible paddle made out of cane is useful. This 
paddle is also used to take out the bubbles of air by running 
it down the side of the jar to touch these bubbles after the 
liquor has been added to the pack. 

5. Adjusting the Cap. — Before placing the cap be sure that 
the rubber is flattened in its groove, without the presence of 
any seed or particle of the fruit. When a screw-top jar is 
used, screw the cap evenly about half way. When a glass top 
jar with wire clamp is used, place the lid on evenly and raise 
both clamps up, the upper one fastened to hold the lid in place. 
With a hermetic jar, fasten the cap on the jar evenly with the 
clamp. This type of jar is self-sealing as it cools. 

6. Processing.— Place the jars in a water bath on a rack (a 
wooden one is good) to avoid breaking. Have the water the 
same temperature as the contents, letting it come to within 2 
inches of the top of jars. Have a tight cover for the vessel to 
keep in the steam. Do not count time until the water begins 
to boil; keep it boiling steadily for the time required. Seal the 
jars air tight promptly at end of processing and remove them 
from the bath, being careful not to allow a cold draft to strike 
them. In intermittent processing, raise the clamp of each jar 
at the beginning of each processing to allow for expansion. 
Seal at close of each processing. The hermetic jar is not a suit- 
able one for intermittent processing. 

7. Labeling. — Before labeling, wash and polish each jar. 
Place the label on the plain side of the jar midway between the 
seams one-fourth inch from the lower edge. On every label must 
appear the name of the contents, name and address of the 
packer, and net weight in pounds and ounces. 

8. Store products in a cool, dry, dark place. 

STANDARDS FOR 4-H BRAND CANNED FRUITS. 

Figs. — The net weight contents of a No. 2 enamel-lined can of 
figs should, as shown on the label, be not less than 1 pound 

123 



BOYS' AND GIRLS ' AGRICUL TURAL CLUB MANUAL 

6 ounces. Figs should remain whole and a No. 2 can should 
contain about 30 to 35 whole figs. 

Peaches. — A No. 3 can should have at least 1 pound 5 ounces 
solids and 11 ounces liquid, should contain between 10 and 12 
halves of peaches, and the net weight of contents appearing on 
label should be not less than 2 pounds. 

Pears. — The net weight in a No. 3 can should be not less 
than 2 pounds, having 11 ounces liquid, 1 pound 5 ounces solids 
and between 12 and 14 halves. 

Berries.- — The net weight of a No. 3 can of blackberries 
or raspberries should be 2 pounds. Of a No. 2 can, 1 pound 6 
ounces, whole berries weighing about one-half of total in each 
can. The berries should be large, whole, and of good color and 
flavor. The sirup used in packing must be made out of strained 
berry juice and sugar with no water added. Enamel-lined cans 
should always be used. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What kind of jars are best for canning in glass? 

2. What should be done in getting ready to can in glass? 

3. What steps in canning in tin are also taken in canning 
in glass? 

4. Should more care be exercised in packing in glass than 
in tin? 

5. What care should be exercised in adjusting the cap? 

6. How is "processing" done in canning in glass? 

7. Is there danger in breaking the jars in canning in glass 
by the hot water method? 

8. May the glass jar be used in the intermittent processing? 

9. What care should be taken in showing the products that 
are canned in glass? 

10. W^hat are the standard weights of the 4-H Brand of 
peaches pears and berries, in the No. 3 cans. 

Lesson No. 13. — Canning Club. 

CANNING PEPPERS. 

(U. S. Department of Agriculture Bulletin No. 782.) 

The fruits of the mild-flavored varieties of Spanish peppers 
(used in canned pimentos) dift>r from the ordinary sweet bell 
pepper in that they have a much thicker meat, a very tough skin, 
and are smooth in contour, being comparatively free from 
ridges. These peppers upon being heated develop a juice which 
when mixed with water makes an unpleasant slimy mixture. 
For this reason no water is used in their preparation for salads 
or in canning. The peppers should be picked in the early 
morning and handled carefully, to prevent bruising. This can 
be done by placing them in shallow trays, from which they can 

124 



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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



be easily sorted. The medium sized, uniformly sound peppers 
should be canned whole. The irregular, broken ones, must 
be cut into strips and canned or used in relishes, sauces or 
soup mixtures. 

STANDARD PACKING IN TINS. 

Select sound, uniform peppers of medium size. To remove 
seeds, cut around the stem of each with a slender paring knife 
and remove inside partitions. To peel, place the peppers in a 
hot oven from 6 to 10 minutes (until the skin blisters and cracks), 
being careful not to allow them to burn. Then remove the skin 
with a slender paring knife. Flatten the peppers and pack in 
horizontal layers. Place whole, uniform peppers in the cans, 
putting 4 peppers into the flat No. 1 can and 8 into the No. 2 
can. This number makes the standard pack, the net weight of 
which should not be less than 1 pound in a No. 2 can and 8 
ounces in a flat No. 1 can. The peppers should be selected so as 
to fill the cans. No liquid is used. The processing brings out of 
the peppers a thick liquor, which almost covers them in the can 
or jar. Cap and exhaust flat No. 1 can for 2 minutes and No. 2 
cans for 3 minutes. Tip and process in hot water at boiling tem- 
perature, the flat No. 1 cans for 15 minutes, the No. 2 cans for 
25 minutes. 

STANDARD PACKING IN GLASS. 

Prepare the peppers as for packing in tin. For the 4-H 
Brand package use a 10-ounce tumbler-shaped glass jar with 
hermetic cap. This jar should contain, packed in flattened 
horizontal layers, six whole peppers. The jar should be well 
filled and in some cases seven peppers may be necessary for a 
full pack. Cap, clamp and process for 20 minutes. Do not 
remove the clamp until the jar is thoroughly cold. The strips 
and cubes cut from irregular and broken peppers may be packed 
in pints and quarts for home use. Process pint jars for 20 
minutes and quart jars for 30 minutes. The best way to chop 
the vegetable ingredients uniformly is to put them through a 
food chopper. 

DIXIE RELISH. 

1 qt. chopped cabbage 4 tblsps. mustard seed. 

1 pt. chopped white onion 2 tblsps. celery seed (crushed.) 

1 pt. chopped sweet red pepper % cup sugar. 
I pt. chopped sweet green pepper 1 qt. vinegar. 
5 tablespoonfuls salt. 
Soak the pepper in brine (1 cup salt to 1 gallon water) for 
24 hours. Freshen in clear cold water for one or two hours. 
Drain well. Remove seeds and coarse white sections. Chop 
separately and measure the chopped cabbage, peppers and onions 
before mixing. Add spices, sugar and vinegar. Let stand over 
night covered in a crock or enameled vessel. Pack in small 

127 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

jars. The standard pack will be in a vase-shaped 10-ounce 
hermetic jar. When ready to pack drain the vinegar off the 
relish, in order that the jar may be well packed. Pack the 
relish in the jars, pressing it carefully, then pour over it the 
vinegar which was drained ofT. Paddle the jars thoroughly 
to get every bubble out and allow the vinegar to displace all 
air spaces. Garnish each jar with two quarter-inch pointed 
strips of red pepper 3 inches long. Place these strips vertically 
on opposite sides of the seams of the jar. Cap, clamp and 
process for 10 minutes at boiling temperature. 

CREOLE SAUCE. 

1 pint tomato sauce (about consistency of ketcup.) 
1 cup green pepper (cut in 1 inch cubes or strips.) 
% cup red pepper (cut in 1 inch cubes or strips.) 

1 tablespoonful celery seed (crushed.) 
% tablespoon minced parsnips. 

2 tablespoonfuls chopped onions. 
1 tablespoonful sugar. 

1 tablespoonful butter. 

1 bay leaf. 

4 tablespoonfuls minced ham or bacon. 

Season with salt and pepper. 

Make tomato sauce by first cooking the tomatoes and put- 
ting them through a sieve. Cook the pulp until about the con- 
sistency of ketchup. Chop the onions and fry in the butter until 
yellow. Add the pepper, tomato sauce, ham and seasoning and 
simmer for half an hour. Serve hot. This Creole sauce can be 
used in omelets, rice croquettes, veal, lamb, boiled or baked 
fish, in soup, and with creole chicken. When the cerole sauce 
is to be canned, omit the ham or bacon, and simmer only 15 
minutes. Process in 10 ounce glass jars for 20 minutes in a 
water bath at boiling temperature. 

GREEN PEPPER AND CHEESE SALAD. 

Select and wash three medium sized green peppers. Cut 
around the stem of each with a slender paring knife to remove 
the seed and white sections. StufT the inside of the peppers 
with cottage cheese, pressing it in firmly. Chill and when 
ready for use, cut the i)epper into ([uarter inch slices and place 
two or three of these slices in a nest of tender lettuce. Serve 
with a salad dressing. 

COMBINATION SALAD. 

% cup chopped green pepper. 
% cup chopped red pepper. 
Vi cup chopped onions. 
1 cup tomatoes cut in pieces. 
Vi cup sliced cucumbers. 

128 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Chop separately, measure, mix and serve in a bed of shred- 
ded tender lettuce and serve with a French salad dressing. 

SWEET RED PEPPER AND LETTUCE SALAD. 

A very good salad can be made by using small leaves of head 
lettuce with strips of bright red sweet pepper. This salad is 
especially attractive when served with a small cheese ball on 
each plate. Roll the cheese into balls about the size of a wal- 
nut. These cheese balls may be made of cottage cheese or pimento 
cheese. 

Cottage Cheese. — Take fresh clabber before it loses its best 
flavor by becoming too sour. Heat slowly until barely hot 
enough to separate the curd from the whey. This takes place 
much below the boiling point. Pour into a thin cloth bag and 
allow to drip for one or two hours. Turn the curd into a boil 
and season with salt and pepper. Add one-half cup cream to 
about 1 pint of dry curd and mix thoroughly.* 

Pimento Cheese. — Chop finely two or three medium sized 
ripe pimentos which have been baked until tender and peeled. 
10 pimentos may be used. The peppers should be soft enough 
to make a smooth mixture. Cream the pimentos and curd to- 
gether until a smooth mixture is obtained. This cheese may 
be used for a sandwich fdling, for cheese balls and also for the 
stufFing in the green pepper and cheese salad. 

PIMENTO AND COTTAGE CHEESE ROAST. 

2 cupfuls cooked lima beans. 
% pound cottage cheese. 

3 canned pimetos chopped. 
Bread crumbs and salt. 

Put the first three ingredients through a meat chopper. Mix 
thoroughly and add bread crumbs until it is stiff enough to 
form into a roll. Brown in the oven, basting occasionally with 
butter and other fat and water. 

Lesson No. 14. — Canning Club. 

PRESERVING. 

(From State's Relation Bulletin No. A-81.) 

These recipes are prepared for advanced club members who 
are ready to begin work in preserving. In order to secure the 
uniform products required for market, it is necessary to have 
some special equipment. Good enamel or aluminum vessels, 
scales, measuring cups, wooden spoons and paddles, thermome- 
ters and saccharometer are needed. 

In making preserves, the object is to have the fruit permeated 
with sirup. Care must be taken to do this gradualy so as to pre- 
vent shrinking and toughening which results when fruit is 

129 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

placed at once in very dense sirup. It is also important not to 
pack the linished preserves in siruiJ heavy enough to crystalize 
later. To insure accurate and uniform results, test with a 
saccharometer the density of all sirups used in packing pre- 
serves. A 25()-centimeter glass cylinder or other tall slender ves- 
sel is needed to hold the sirup in which the saccharometer is 
floated. The <legrees of density used in these recipes are those 
indicated by Balling of Brix saccharoir.eters. Process preserves 
or jam in 12 ounce or pint jars, 20 minutes at 180 degrees F. (sim- 
mering.) When jars with glass top and screw cap or wire clamp 
(lightning seal) are used, tighten caj) immediately at end of 
processing. When hermetic jars are used, leave clamp on cap 
until jar is entirely cold. Measurements level. 

PRESERVED BERRIES. 

Practically the same methods are to be followed in preserv- 
ing and making jams of all berries. Berries should be gathered 
in shallow trays or baskets and not in deep vessels which allow 
them to be bruised and crushed. They should be uniform, ripe 
and sound. Select only large, firm berries for preserving; those 
for jam may contain the smaller and broken ones. All berries 
should be carefully sorted and lightl.\ washed by placing in a 
colander and pouring water over them rather than putting them 
into a pan of water. 

To retain the best possible color and llavor, sirup for i)re- 
served berries should be made of berry juice obtained by crush- 
ing, heating and straining the softer broken berries. Add 1 pint 
of sugar to each pint of berry juice and allow to boil 10 minutes. 
Weigh the choice, perfect berries after removing the caps or 
stems and allow 1 pound of sugar extra for each pound of whole 
berries. Add the extra sugar to the sirup, bring to a boil and 
skim. Remove fi'om the fire and cool sirup before dropping the 
berries into it to i)revent shriveling and toughening the fruit. 
Place over the lire and bring slowly to a boil and sinuner until 
the berries are heated through, being verx careful not to over- 
cook; the berries should remain whole. Lift the berries from 
the sirup and place carefuly into shallow pans. Pour sirup over 
them and allow to stand over night. Pack cold, filling the jar 
with berries before pouring the sirup over them. Cap, process 
and seal. The preserves may be packed hot, after removing from 
the fire, capped and processed immediately. The sirup in which 
berry preserves are packed should have density of 50 to 55 
degrees and will often need to be boiled <lown to this density 
after removing berries. 

JAM. 

In selecting berries for jam, the ripe broken ones suggested 
above will give fine color and flavor, but at the same time there 

130 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

should always be about one-half the quantity which are slightly 
underripe. This is necessary to give a jelly like consistency to 
the product. Cooking in small quantities also helps to retain 
color and flavor. Weigh the berries and allow li -pound sugar 
to each pound of fruit. Rapid cooking with constant care is 
essential. In stirring jam use a wooden spoon or paddle, moving 
it across the center of the vessel first one way and then the 
opposite and next around the pan, gently moving the mixture 
from the bottom of the pan, being careful not to stir rapidly 
or heat. Cook the jam to 220 degrees F. When finished it will 
give the same test as required from finished jelly, that is, when 
a little is held a moment cooled in a spoon and allowed to drop 
from the side of the spoon it will not pour, but will fall in a 
sheet or flake. 



Lesson No. 15. — Canning Club. 

PRESERVED FIGS. 

(From State's Relation Bulletin No. A-81.) 

6 quarts figs. 2 quarts sugar. 3 quarts water. 

Select firm, sound fruit, discard all overripe or broken 
figs. Sprinkle 1 cup of soda over the selected figs and cover with 
about 6 quarts of boiling water. Allow to stand 15 minutes, drain 
off this soda solution and rinse the figs well through two baths 
of clear cold water. Let the figs drain while sirup is prepared. 
Mix sugar and water, boil 10 minutes and skim. Add well 
drained figs gradually so as not to cool the sirup. Cook rapidly 
until figs are clear and tender, (about 2 hours.) When the 
figs are transparent, lift them out carefully and place in shallow 
pans. If the sirup is heavy enough (about 50 degrees) continue 
boiling until it reaches this density, then pour it over the figs, 
being careful to see that the fruit is entirely covered. Let stand 
over night. Next morning pack the figs cold into sterilized jars, 
having stems all the same length and placing the figs so that all 
stems will be upward. Fill each jar to overflowing with the 
sirup testing 55 degrees. Cap, clamp, process and seal innne- 
diately. 

FIG MARMALADE. 

Select very ripe figs, remove all stems, treat them with 
scalding soda solution and rinse thoroughly as in preserving. 
Cook in quantities not larger than 3 pounds at a time. Allow 
IV2 pounds sugar to each 3 pounds of figs. Add barely enough 
water to start the cooking (about one-half cup) crush the figs, 
heat to boiling and add the sugar. Cook rapidly to 220 degrees 
following instructions given in berry jam. Pack and process 
like proserves. 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS ' AGRICUL TURAL CLUB MANUAL 

PRESERVED WATERMELON RIND. 

Cut 1 pound rind into 1 inch squares. Remove peel and all 
pink part. Soak over night in lime water (1 ounce lime to 2 
quarts water.) The following morning let stand for 2 hours in 
clear water. Drain well then drop into boiling water and boil 
rapidly for 10 minutes. Drain again and add gradually to the 
sirup (made by boiling 3 cups sugar, 3 pints water). Add to this 
the juice of one-half lemon and three extra slices of lemon. 
Cook until the melon is tender and transparent. Allow to stand 
until cold, arrange the pieces attractively in the jar, garnishing 
with a slice of lemon. Cover with the sirup testing .")0 to 55 
degrees. Process and seal. 

GINGERED WATERMELON RIND. 

Follow the same method as for preserves until after rind 
has been freshened in cold water. Then drain well and boil 
rapidly for 15 minutes in strong ginger tea (1 ounce ginger to 

1 quart water.) Finish cooking in a 30 degree sirup made by 
using 1 pint strained ginger tea with 1 quart w^ater and l^-> 
pounds sugar. Cook rapidly until tender and transparent (about 

2 hours.) After rind has boiled for one-half hour, add one- 
half lemon, cut into thin slices. Pack and process like preserves. 

PEACH MARMALADE. 

2^/4 pounds peaches cut into small i^ieces. 

1 pound sugar. 

6 whole allspice. 

1 cracked peach seed. 

1 inch ginger root. 

^2 cup peach juice. 

y^ teaspoon whole cloves. 

1 teaspoon cinnamon bark. 

1 teaspoon sprig mace. 

(Tie spices in cheesecloth bag.) 

Cook together until thick as marmalade and clear (to 220 
degrees F.) Pack hot in hot jars and seal at once. If this is 
done quickly, having everything very hot, a good seal should 
result. However, when packing for market, it is safer to process 
this jam both to insure sterilization and a tight seal. 

GINGERED PEARS. 

Use iK-ars not (luite ripe, peel, core and cut in tbin slices. 
To 8 pountls of pears, allow 8 pounds sugar, 1 cup of water, 
juice of 4 lemons. Cut the lemon rinds into thin strips and add 
them. Also add Vs pound of ginger root cut into pieces. Simmer 
until thick as marmalade. Pack like peach jam. 

132 



BOYS' A ND GIR LS' AGRICULTURAL CL UB MANUAL 

Lesson No. IC. — Canning Club. 

PICKLING. 

(From State's Relation Bulletin Xo. A-81.) 

These recipes have been prepared for iinifonu 4-H Brand 
pickles and ketchup. Brine in which vegetables stand for a 
brief time is about 45 per cent. (1 cup salt to 1 gallon water.) 
If vegetables are to be brined for several months it is necessary 
to use a salt per cent scale. 

TOMATO KETCHUP. 

Select red ripe tomatoes. The extra juice, small and broken 
fruit, which will not do for canning may be used if they are 
sound and red. Any green or yellowish parts of fruit will make 
a ketchup inferior in flavor and color and not good for market. 
Use whole spices tied loosely in a bag while cooking and remove 
before bottling to prevent darkening the product caused by 
ground spices. This does not apply to red pepper, which helps 
to give a bright, red color. The pulp of sweet Spanish pepper 
or the ground Hungarian paprica may also be used to give color 
and flavor. Remove seeds from sweet red pepper, chop and add 
1 cup of this pepper and 2 medium size onions to 1 gallon 
tomatoes before cooking. Cook the tomatoes thoroughly, put 
through a colander or sieve, saving all pulp, and measure. For 
every gallon of pulp use the following: 

2 tablespoons salt. 

4 tablespoons sugar. 

1 tablespoon mustard (powdered.) 

1 pint good vinegar. 

1 level tablespoon whole allspice. 
Cloves, cinnamon and pepper. 

2 small red peppers sliced and seed removed. 

After putting tomatoes through a colander add ground 
spices and spice bag and cook for 1% hours, or until nearly thick 
enough, then add vinegar and cook until thick. Rapid cooking 
(being careful not to scorch the ketchup) will give a better 
color than slow cooking. The finished product should be a 
fine, bright red. Pour the ketchup at once into hot sterilized 
bottles. If any quanitity is made for sale, set the hot bottles 
at once in a vessel of hot water, having a false bottom in it to 
prevent breakage, put the cork stoppers in loosely and process 
at boiling point for 30 minutes. Drive the corks in tightly and 
when cool dip mouth of bottle into melted paraftin, or cover 
with sealing wax. 

MUSTARD PICKLE. 

Vegetables. 

1 pint whole small cucumbers. 
1 pint sliced cucumbers. 
. 1 pint small whole onions. 

133 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

1 cup beans. 

3 green sweet peppers. 

3 red sweet peppers. 

1 pint green fig tomatoes, or 1 pint cauliflower. 
1 quart vinegar. 

4 tai)lespoons flour. 
1 cuj) sugar. 

3 tablespoons powdered mustard. 
^i- tablespoon turmeric. 

1 tablespoon celery seed. 

Cut_ all vegetables before measuring, tonudoes into balves, 
cucumbers into slices, string beans into lV-;-inch lengths, diago- 
nally or on the bias, and chop peppers. All vegetables should be 
tender, and tlie whole cucumbers not longer than 2Vi. inches. 
Put all vegetables into brine over night then freshen in clear 
water for 2 hours. Let these vegetables stand in licjuor of one 
half vinegar and one-half water for 15 minutes, then scald in 
same licjuor. To make nuistard dressing, rub all the dry ingre- 
dients together until smooth then add the hot vinegar slowly, 
stirring to nuike smooth paste. Cook over pan of water, stir- 
ring carefully until the sauce thickens. Then drain the vegetables 
thoroughly an<l pour the mustard dressing over them wliile 
hot. Mix well and pack in sterilized jars. Process lO-ounce 
jars for 20 minutes at l.SO degrees F. (sinnnering.) 

Lesson Xo. 17. — C;iiiiui^ ('.Iiib. 

SPICED CUCUMBER SALAD. 

(From State's Relation Bulletin No. A-81.) 

Vegetables. 

5 pounds sliced cucumljers (about 2 dozen.) 
% cup chopped onion. 

2 cups chopped sweet red pepper. 

1 cup chopped sweet green pepper. 
Spiced vinegar. 
1 quart vinegar. 
V^ cup sugar. 

1 tablespoonful each, powdered ginger, and mustar<l seetl. 

2 tablespoons celery seed (crushed.) 

1 tablespoonful eacli whole peppers, cloves, cinnamon and 
allspice. 

Mix the cucumber and onions and sprinkle alternate layers 
with salt, using % cup for whole. Let stand over night. Put pep- 
pers into brine over night. Next morning drain vegetables and 
freslien for one to two hours in clear water. Put all whole 
spices into cheese cloth bag, except the celery seed and mustard 
seed, which are i)ut in loose. Add spices to the vinegar and boil 

134 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

for five minutes. Drain the vegetables well and pour the hot 
spices and vinegar over them. Let stand for 24 hours. Pack, 
distributing the pepper well, and flattening some of the cucumber 
slices against the face of each jar. Fill jars with same vinegar 
and paddle well to remove all bubbles. Garnish with strips 
of red pepper or pieces of spice. Process 12 ounces or pint 
jars for 15 minutes at 180 degrees F. 

PICKLED ONIONS. 

Select small white onions and sort into 2 sizes. One-half 
inch diameter in one and -Id-inch in another. Peel, cover with 
fresh water and let stand for 2 days, changing the water on 
the second day. Wash well and put into brine for four days, 
changing brine at the end of second day. Take out of brine and 
put into boiling water. Let stand for 10 minutes then put into 
cold water for 2 hours drain and pack into jars, putting in a 
few small red peppers and garnishing with sprigs of mace. Fill 
jars to overflowing with spiced vinegar made previously and 
allow to stand for a few days with spice bags left in it. Process 
as for pickles. 

SPICED VINEGAR. 

% gallon vinegar.. 

IV2 tablespoons celery seed. 

V2 cup grated horseradish. 

1 cup sugar. 

1% tablespoons mustard seed. 

1 tablespoon salt. 

1 tablespoon cinnamon. 

Cloves, nutmeg and grated onion may be added if desired. 

GREEN TOMATO PICKLE. 

1 gallon green tomatoes. 

V2 dozen large onions. 

3 cups brown sugar. 

¥2 lemon. 

3 pods of red pepper. 

1 tablespoon whole black pepper. 

1 tablespoon whole cloves. 

1 tablespoon whole allspice. 

1 tablespoon celery seed (crushed.) 

1 tablespoon mustard seed. 

1 tablespoon ground mustard. 

Slice the tomatoes and onions thin. Sprinkle over'them V2 
cup salt and let stand overnight in a crock or enamel vessel. Tie 
the pepper, cloves, allspice and celery seed in a cheese cloth bag. 
Slice the lemon and slice 2 pepper pods very fine. Drain the 
totmato and onion well. Add all seasoning except one pepper 
pod to the vinegar, then add the tomato and onion. Cook 

135 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



for % hour, stirring gently at intervals to prevent burning. 
Remove spice bag to prevent darkening product. Pack in 10 ounce 
jars and garnish with slender strips of the red pepper, placing 
them vertically on the opposite sides of each jar. Process for 
15 minutes. 




Home-made Drier. 



136 



BOYS' AND GIRL S' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Lesson No. 18. — Canning Club. 

DRYING OF VEGETABLES AND FRUITS FOR HOME. USE. 

( I'loni State's lU-lation Bulletin Xo. A-88.) 

Many vegetables and fruits, which often go to waste, can 
very easily be conserved for home use by a simple process of 
drying which can be done in the average home. Dried products 
require no outlay for expensive containers and can be stored 
almost indefinitely under proper conditions in relatively small 
space. 100 pounds of fresh vegetables will average ten pounds 
of the dried product. Vegetables and fruits, if properly dried, 
retain their natural flavor and food value and when properly 
cooked can be made into most attractive and wholesome dishes. 

DRIERS OR EVAPORATORS. 

Vegetables and fruits can be dried in an oven, in trays or 
racks over the kitchen stove, or in a specially constructed drier. 
There are small driers on the market which give satisfactory re- 
sults. The small cookstove driers or evaporators are small 
oven-like structures, usually made of galvanized sheet iron or 
of wood and galvanized iron. They are of such a size that can 
be placed on the top of an ordinary wood or coal range, or a 
kerosene stove. These driers hold a series of small trays on 
which fruits or vegetables are placed after being prepared for 
drying. Portable outdoor evaporators are especially convenient 
when it is desired to dry as much as ten bushels of fruit or 
vegetables per day. They are usually constructed of wood except 
the parts in direct contact with the healer. The homemade dry 
kiln used in some sections of the country can be cheaply and 
easily made of brick and stone. 

Homemade Cookstove Drier. — A drier that can be used on 
a wood or coal range or a kerosene stove can be easily and 
cheaply made. Dimensions: Base 24x16 inches; height 36 
inches. A base 6 inches high is made of galvanized sheet iron. 
This base slightly flares toward the bottom and has two small 
openings for ventilation in each of the four sides. On the base 
rests a box-like frame made of 1 or iy2-inch strips of wood. 
The two sides are braced with 1%-inch strips which serve as 
cleats on which the trays in the drier rest. These are placed 
at intervals of 3 inches. The frame is covered with tin or 
galvanized sheet iron, which is tacked to the w^ooden strips of 
the frame. Thin strips of wood may be used instead of tin or 
sheet iron. The door is fitted on small hinges and fastened 
with a thumb latch. It opens wide so that the traps can be 
easily removed. The bottom in the drier is made of a piece of 
perforated galvanized sheet iron. Two inches above the bottom 
is placed a solid sheet of galvanized iron 3 inches less in length 
and width than the bottom. This sheet rests on two wires 

137 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

fastened to the sides of the drier. This prevents the direct heat 
from coming in contact with tlie product and serves as a radiator 
to more evenly spread the heat. 

The first tray is phjced tliree inches ahove the radiator. The 
trays rest on the cleats 3 inches apart. A drier of the given 
dimensions will hokl eight trays. The frame of the tray is 
made of one-inch strips on which is tacked galvanized screen 
wire, which forms the hottom of the tray. The tray is 21x15 
inches, making it 3 inches less in depth than the drier. The 
lowest tray when placed in the drier is pushed to the back, 
leaving the 3-inch space in the front. The next tray is placed 
even with the front, leaving a 3-inch space in the hack. The 
other trays alternate in the same way. This permits the hot 
current of heated air to pass around and over the trays. A 
ventilator opening is left in the top of the drier through which 
the moist air may pass away. 

The principle of construction is that currents of heated 
air pass over the product as well as up through it, gathering the 
moisture and passing away. The movement of the current of 
air induces a more rapid and uniform drying. The upper trays 
can be shifted to the lower part of the drier and the lower trays 
to the upper part as drying proceeds, so as to dry product 
uniformly throughout. 

If drying is done in a cookstove oven, leave oven door ajar. 
Note temperature of oven often. Trays for use in the oven can 
be made by using a convenient sized piece of galvanized wire 
screen ami bending up to the edge one or two inches. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What is meant by drying fruits and vegetables? 

2. Have you dried fruit? Vegetables? 

3. What common ways are used in drying fruit? 

4. Describe how to make a homemade drier. 

Note to Teacher. — Have pupils Ijriiig niatorials and make diicr at 
school. 

Lesson No. 19. — Canning Clul). 

DRIED VEGETABLES. 

(From State's Relation Bulletin No. A-88.) 

E(|ually as great care should be given to the selection and 
preparation of vegetables for drying as for canning. To secure a 
tine cjualitN of dried products, much depends upon having the 
vegetables absolutely fresh, young, tender and perfectly clean. 
Wash all vegetables and clean well. If steel knives are used in 
paring and cutting have them clean and bright so as not to 
discolor the vegetables. 

138 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

After vegetables are prepared properly, they are blanched. 
The blanch gives a more thorough cleaning, removes the strong 
odor and flavor from certain kinds of vegetables and softens 
and loosens the fibre. This allows the moisture in the vegetable 
to evaporate more quickly and uniformly. It also quickly 
coagulates the alubuminous matter in the vegetables which helps 
to mould in the natural flavors. Blanching consists of plunging 
the vegetable into boiling water for a short time. Use a wire 
basket or chese cloth bag for this. After blanching the required 
number of minutes, drain well and remove surface moisture 
by placing vegetables between two towels or by exposing to the 
sun and air for a short time. 

The vegetable thus prepared is spread in a thin layer on 
the trays of the drier. The temperature for drying should be 
rather low to prevent scorching the product. For most vege- 
tables, after surface moisture is removed, begin drying at a 
temperature of lUO degrees F. Increase temperature gradually 
from 110 to 145 degrees and complete drying in two or three 
hours. The time required for drying vegetables varies; how- 
ever, it can easily be determined by a little experience. The 
material should be stirred or turned several times during the 
drying in order to secure uniform product. 

It is important to know the temperature of the heat in the 
drier and this cannot be determined very accurately except by 
using a thermometer. Inexpensive oven thermometers can be 
found on the market, or an ordinary chemical thermometer can 
be suspended in the drier. If a thermometer is not used, the great- 
est care should be given to the regulation of the heat. The 
temperature in the drier rises rather quickly and the product 
may scorch unless close attention is given. 

Green String Beans. — All varieties of string beans can be 
dried. Wash and string the beans carefully. The very young 
and tender string beans can be dried whole. Those that are full 
grown should be cut in M to 1 inch lengths with a vegetable 
slicer or sharp knife. It is better to cut beans than snap 
them. They are then put in a bag of cheese cloth, or in a wire 
basket and blanched in boiling water for G to 10 minutes, de- 
pending on the maturity of the bean. One-half teaspoon of 
soda may be added to each gallon of boiling water to help set 
the green color in the bean. Remove surface moisture accord- 
ing to directions given above. Young string beans dry 2 hours, 
more matured beans 3 hours. Begin drying at a temperature of 
110 degrees F., and raise temperature gradually to 145 degrees. 
Wax beans are dried in the same manner as the green string 
beans. 

Lima or Butter Beans. — Lima or butter beans can be shelled 
from the pod and dried. If gathered before maturity, when young 

139 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL _ 

and tender, wash and blanch from 5 to 10 minutes. Length of 
time for blanching depends upon size and maturity of bean. 
Remove surface moisture and dry from 3 to 3^^ hours at same 
temperature for string beans. 

Dry Shelled Beans. — Different kinds of beans, after matur- 
ing and drying on the vines, can be treated as follows: Shell, 
wash and spread in thin layers on the trays of the drier and 
heat 10 minutes, beginning at 160 degrees and gradually raising 
the temperature to 180 degrees. This high tmperature will de- 
stroy all insect eggs that might be in the beans. Cowpeas or 
any field pea can be treated in the same way. Cool and store 
carefully. It might be added that the heating of the bean or 
pea <lestroys its vitality and thus treated cannot be used for 
seed purposes. 

Garden Peas. — When drying the very young and tender 
sugar peas use the pod also. Wash and cut in i/4-inch pieces, 
blanch in boiling water 6 minutes, remove surface moisture, and 
dry the same length of time and at the same temperature as 
string beans. It is not necessary to use soda when blanching 
peas. The garden pea, wdiich has a non-edible pod,, is shelled 
and blanched from 3 to 5 minutes. Remove surface moisture, 
spread in single layer on trays and dry from 3 to 3% hours. 
Begin drying at 110 degrees, raise temperature very slowly in 
about IV2 hours to 145 dgrees. Continue drying l^.\i to 2 hours 
at 145 degrees. 

Sweet Corn. — Select very young and tender corn and pre- 
pare at once after gathering. Boil or steam on the cob 8 to 10 
minutes to set the milk. To improve flavor a teaspoon of salt 
to a gallon of water may be used. Drain well and cut corn from 
cob, using a very sharp and flexible knife. Cut grains fine, only 
half way down to the cob and scrape out the remainder of 
grain, being careful not to scrape off any of the chafT next to 
the cob. Dry from 3 to 4 hours at 110 to 145 degrees. When 
field corn is used, good plump roasting ear stage is the proper 
degree of ripeness. A pound of dried corn per dozen ears is an 
average yield. Corn may be <lried in the sun. Dry in oven 10 to 
15 minutes and finish drying in the sun. Sun drying is, of course, 
not satisfactory in moist weather and the dried product will be 
darker in color and not as attractive in appearance. When drietl 
in the sun it should be heated in the oven before storing to kill 
insect eggs. 

Carrots and Parsnips. — Clean, scrape or pare and slice in 
%-inch slices. Blanch 6 minutes, remove surface moisture and 
dry 2% to 3 hours. Begin drying at 110 and raise temperature 
gradually to 150 degrees. Kalarabi, celeraic and salsify are 
dried by the same method. 

140 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB :MANUAL 



Onions and Leek. — Wash, peel and slice onions in Vs to ^d- 
inch slices. To avoid any unpleasantness, peel and slice, holding 
under water. Blanch in boiling water 5 minutes, remove surface 
moisture and dry 2M> to 3 hours, beginning at 110 and raising 
temperature gradualy to 140 degrees. Leek is cut in i/i-inch 
strips and dried the same as onions. 

Beets. — Boil the whole beets with skin until a little more 
than % done. Oip in cold water, peel and slice in Vs to i/4-inch 
slices. Dry 2'/. to 3 hours at 110 to 150 degrees F. 

Pumpkin and Squash.— Pare and cut in about Vs-inch strips 
and blanch 3 minutes, remove surface moisture and dry slowly 
from 3 to 4 hours, raising temperature from 110 to 140 degrees. 
Celery cut in one inch strips is dried in the same way as pumpkin 
or squash. 

Okra. — Wash, blanch 3 minutes in boiling soda water and 
dry 2 to 3 hours, at 110 to 140 degrees. Use 1-: teaspoon soda to 
a gallon of water. Dry young and small tender pods whole. 
Older pods should be cut in 14 -inch slices. Small tender pods 
are sometimes strung on a string and hung over the stove to dry. 
If dried in that manner, heat in oven before storing. 

Cabbage.— Cabbage is shredded or cut in strips a few inches 
long. Blanch 10 minutes, drain, remove surface moisture and 
dry 3 hours, at 110 to 145 degrees. 

Cauliflower. — Clean, divide in small bunches, blanch 6 min- 
utes and dry 3 to 3Mi hoj.n's at 110 to 145 degrees. Cauliflower will 
turn very dark when drying, but will regain part of color in 
soaking and cooking. Dried cauliflower is especially good in 
soups and omelets. For drying brussel sprouts treat like cauli- 
flower and add pinch of soda to blanching water. 

Peppers. — Peppers may be dried by splitting on one side, 
removing seed, drying in the air and finished in the drier at 140 
degrees. A more satisfactory method is to place peppers in bis- 
cuit pan in oven and heat until skin blisters or steam peppers un- 
til skin softens. Peel, split in half, take out seed and dry at 110 
to 140 degrees. In drying thick fleshed peppers like the pimento 
do not increase heat too quickly, but dry slowly and evenly. 
Small varieties of red peppers may be spread in the sun until 
wilted and the drying finished in the drier or they may be en- 
tirely dried in the sun. 

Vegetable Soup Mixtures. — Each vegetable used in the soup 
mixture is prepared and dried separately. They are put together 
in proportions desired, the desired flavored vegetables predomi- 
nating. A combination of several vegetables makes a most de- 
sirable soup mixture. Those most often used are carrots, cab- 
bage, onions, celery, okra and corn. 

141 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Herbs, Etc. — Celery tops, parsley, mint, sage and herbs 
of all kinds need not be blanched, but washed well and dried 
in the sun or in drier. These are good for flavoring soups, purees, 
gravies, omelets, etc. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What care should be used in selecting vegetables for 
drying? 

2. Does this diflcr from that in canning? 

3. In what condition must the vegetables be in order to get 
a good dried product? 

4. What is the first thing done to the vegetables in pre- 
paring for drying? Why is this done? 

5. After the vegetables are thus prepared, how should they 
be place<l for drying? 

G. What does the temeperature have to do with drying? 

7. Is it necessary to give any attention to the vegetables 
while the process of drying is going on? 

8. How may you determine the temperature of the drier? 

9. Describe the methods of drying such vegetables as beans, 
peas, corn, carrots and parsnips, onions, beets, pumpkins, okra, 
cabbage, peppers, etc. 

10. Have you dried successfully any of the above vegetables? 

11. One hundred pounds of fresh vegetables should weigh 
about how nuich when dried? 

12. What becomes of the lost weight? 

Lesson No. 20. — Cniiiiing Cliil). 

STORING DRIED VEGETABLES. 

(From State's Relation lUilletin No. A-88.) 

When vegetables are first taken from the drier, if completely 
dried, they are very brittle. They are more easily handled and 
are in better condition for storing if allowed to stand 1 to 3 
hours to absorb enough moisture to make them pliable before 
putting inlo bags or storing otherwise. If it is not convenient 
to store products inunediately and they are allowed to stand 
several days, they should be heated to 100 degrees F. to destroy 
any insect eggs that might be on them. Care should be taken 
not to heat the vegetables higher than 100 degeeres F. 

Dried vegetables should always be stored in moisture proof 
containers and in a dry place free from dust and dirt. The best 
container is a tin box, bucket or can fitted with a perfectly 
tight cover. Perhaps the most convenient and cheapest con- 
tainer is the small paper bag. A small amount should be put in 
each bag, just enough to use for one or two meals. This will 
prevent the opening of any dried product that cannot be con- 
sumed in a short time. The upper pari of the bag is twisted to 

142 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

form a neck. The neck is bent over and tied tight with a string. 
The entire bag is then painted with a coat of melted paraRin, 
using a small brush or a frazzled end of a piece of rope. This 
makes the bag practically moisture and insect proof. To further 
protect from the insect ravages, label and pack bags in a tin 
container with a tight fitting cover. A large number of bags 
could be stored in an ordinary lard can. A glass jar with a tight 
seal is a good container for dried products. Paraffin coated paper 
containers of various sizes can be found on the market. If such 
containers are used they should also be stored as the paper bags. 
A list of companies from whom such containers can be purchased 
will be furnished upon request. All dried products should be 
examined occasionally. Upon the first appearance of insects, 
spread in thin layers in the sun until insects disappear; then 
heat at a temperature of 160 degrees and re-store carefully. 

DRIED FRUITS. 

In very dry climates fruits are usualy dried in the sun. 
Most fruits dried in the sun discolor unless especially treated. 
For drying fruits in small quanities for home use only the small 
drier is satisfactory. On very hot (Iry days, fruits may be dried 
in the sun until surface begins to wrinkle and then finished in 
the drier. Only fresh ripe fruits should be used. The ideal 
moisture content of dried fruits is about 23 per cent. The ability 
to judge accurately as to wh^n the fruit has reached the proper 
condition for removal from drier can be gained only be expe- 
rience. When sufficiently dried, it should be so dry that it is im- 
possible to press water out of the freshly cut ends of the pieces 
and will not show any of the natural grain of the fruit on being 
broken, yet not so dry that it will snap or crackle. It should be 
leathery and pliable. Before spreading fruit on the trays of the 
drier, line the tray with wrapping paper or cheese cloth. There 
is a possibility of the acid of the fruit acting upon the zinc. 
After drying cool quickly as fruit when cooled slowly shrivels 
and looks unattractive. 

Berries. — Wash berries, free from leaves and stems, and 
remove surface moisture. Handle carefully and do not bruise. 
Spread in a thin layer on tray and dry slowly. Raise tempera- 
ture gradualy from 110 to 125 degrees in about 2 hours. Do not 
raise temperature higher than 130 degrees until a considerable 
portion of moisture has evaporated, as otherwise there would 
be expansion and loss of juice by dripping. This is accompanied 
by loss of flavor and color. Finish drying berries at 140 degrees 
from 2 to 3 hours. The whole process of drying berries takes 
from 4 to 5 hours. 

Cherries. — Wash, remove surface moisture and spread cher- 
ries unseeded in thin layers on travs. If cherries are seeded 

143 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

there will be a loss of juice. Dry from 3 to 4 hours, at 110 to 
150 degrees. Raise temperature gradually. 

Plums. — Select medium ripe plums, cover with boiling water, 
cover the vessel and let stand 20 minutes. Small thin fleshed 
varieties are not suitable for drying. Drain, remove surface 
moisture and dry from 4 to G hours, gradually raising tempera- 
ture from 110 to 150 degrees F. 

Apples and Pears.- — Pare, core and cut apples in Vs or core 
and slice in rings using fruit or vegetable slicer. As apples dis- 
color quickly do not let stand long before drying. To prevent 
discoloration as the fruit is prepared it may be dipped for one 
minute in a cold salt bath, using 1 ounce of salt to 1 gallon of 
water. Remove surface moisture and dry at 110 to 150 degrees, 
raising temperature gradually. Dry from 4 to G hours and longer 
if necessary. Pears are dried in the same way as apples. They 
may be steamed 10 minutes before drying. 

Peaches. — Peaches are usually dried unpeeled. They may 
be peeled is desired. Cut in halves, pit, lay in trays pit side up 
and dry at same temperature and for same length of time as 
apples. 

Store dried fruits in the same way as dried vegetables. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. Should vegetables be stored away immediately after 
drying? 

2. About how long should they be allowed to stand before 
packing away? 

3. Why is this done? 

4. If they cannot be stored away before two or three days, 
what should be done to them, and why? 

5. In what kind of container should the dried vegetables 
be placed? 

G. In what sized containers or packages should they be 
placed? Why? 

7. What is a very cheap and safe way of storing dried 
vegetables? 

8. If you should find insects in your dried vegetables after 
having stored them, how would you proceed to destroy them? 

9. What common ways are used for drying fruits? 

10. Is drying in the sun a good practice? 

11. How does it all'ect tlie fruit? 

12. Would it be all right to begin the drying in the sun and 
then finish with a drier? 

13. What precaution should be used in storing dried fruits? 



144 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CL UB MANUAL 

Lesson 21. — Canning Clulj. 

HOW TO BUILD AND USE A FIRELESS COOKER. 

(State's Relation Bulletin No. 77G.) 

Principle. — The principle of the fireless cooker is to retain 
the heat obtained by first boiling the food for a few minutes. It 
is then placed in the cooker which does not allow the heat to 
escape. The food must be heated in the same vessel in the 
cooker. This vessel must have tight- cover and be moved from 
fire to cooker as quickly as possible. Otherwise, heat will be 
lost. Hot soapstones are sometimes placed in the cooker with 
the food when higher temperature is needed or longer cooking 
desired. These may be purchased from a hardware dealer at 
50 cents each. 

Advantages.^ — 1. Time saving; while food is cooking, the 
housekeeper may be occupied with other duties without fear 
of its burning. 

2. Better foods; many foods thus cooked for a longer time 
at a low temperature have finer flavor and are more whole- 
some than if cooked on a stove at higher temperature. 

3. Comfort; saves working in hot kitchen, keeping up 
fires, watching food. 

4. Fuel saving; fire kept up just long enough to make food 
boiling hot before putting in cooker. In summer, the use of a 
fireless cooker with a kerosene stove will result in both com- 
fort and economy. 

Building the Cooker. — Select a tightly built w^ooden box, an 
old trunk, barrel, large lard tub, or tin lard can for the outside 
container. This must be large enough to allow at least four 
inches of packing all around the nest. A box long enough to con- 
tain two compartments may be secured. If this is done there 
should be at least 6 inches of packing between the two nests, 
and two cushions to cover each nest separately so that one ves- 
sel may be removed without disturbing the other. 

The Nest. — The nest, to contain the vessel of hot food, must 
be considered next. If no hot stone is to be used, this nest may 
be made of strong paste board cylindrical in shape and as snug 
as possible to allow cooking vessel to be moved in and out. If 
too large, the air space will cool the food. The cardboard form- 
ing this cylindrical nest should be lapped and fastened tightly. 
If a hot stone is to be used, a metal nest must be used. A tin 
bucket will do, or better still, have a tinner make a galvanized 
iron one deep enough to contain a soapstone and the cooker 
vessel. This metal vessel must be wrapped with asbestos to pre- 
vent the hot stone from scorching or burning the packing. 

Packing. — For packing between the nest and outer container 
some material which heat will not pass through quicklv must 

145 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 









-- .- ■.- ^ ', - 






, c,"'^-- 















:^:-i5f;\ -' - .■ \^\ 






















What Every Home Should Have — A Home-made Fireless Cooker. 

146 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

be used. First, line the box or other container with layers of 
paper to keep out cold air. Lint cotton, wool, shredded news- 
paper, Spanish moss and excelsior are good for packing. The 
packing should first be placed in the outside container to a 
depth of four inches, then place the cardboard or asbestos for 
the bottom of the nest. Next place the cardboard cylinder or 
the* asbestos can and hold steady while pressing the packing 
tightly around it, leaving no air spaces. When this has reached 
the top of the nest, cut a piece of cardboard to fit the space, 
cutting out a circle to open the nest. This cardboard cover 
should be fastened securely to the nest by pasted strips of cloth 
or heavy paper. It is well to make a paper cover to keep the 
cardboard clean and hide the pasted strips on top. The space 
between the top of nest and the lid of the outside container 
must be filled with a cushion or pad. Make this the exact size 
of the space and stuff with the packing material. It should be 
at least four inches thick and should fit against the top tightly 
enough to cause pressure when the lid is closed. If a box is 
used, the lid should be on hinges with hook to fasten it down. 
The lid of a barrel or lard tub may be fastened by means of 
screw hooks and eyes at intervals around the top. If a wooden 
container is used, it will be more sightly if stained or painted 
a dull, dark brown or green. The cooker will be complete when 
castors have been put on bottom to make it easily moved. 

Food Vessel. — For this any utensil which has a tight cover 
and which will fit the nest may be used. There should be no air 
space left to cause loss of heat. A vessel having straight sides 
and having the same depth as diameter is best. A special enamel 
or aluminum fireless cooker vessel can be purchased for 50 
cents to $1.50, depending upon size and material. Aluminum is 
the best because it will retain heat for a longer time. 

Lesson No. 20-A. — Canning Club. 

USING THE HOME-MADE COOKER. 

Efficient cooking will depend upon retention of heat. A 
small quantity of food will not hold as nuich heat as a larger 
one and w-ill therefore continue cooking for a shorter time. The 
more nearly full the vessel is of food, the better will the heat 
be retained. In heating the soapstone, be careful not to let them 
become red hot because of danger of cracking. 

Note. — All measurements used in tliese recipes are level. The cup used 
holds one-half pint. The abbreviations are: Tsp.— Teaspoonful ; tbsp.— 
tablespoonful ; c. — cup. 

CREOLE CHICKEN. 

1 medium sized chicken. 
() tomatoes or 1 No. 2 can tomatoes. 
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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

3 sweet red peppers, cut in small cul)es. 

3 sweet green peppers, cut in small cubes, or 1 No. 2 can of 
peppers. 

Vi pound ham or 2 or 3 slices bacon chopped finely. 
1 bay leaf. 

1 tablespoon chopped parsley. 

2 teaspoons salt. 

1 onion, size of egg. 

2 tablespoons butter or bacon drippings. 

(]ut chicken as for stew: Sear by dropping it into 1 pint 
boiling water; then let sinniier gently for one-half hour. 

Cook the chopped onion in the butter or meat (h'ippings 
until light yellow. Sinnner tomatoes for 15 nunutcs with the 
bay leaf, strain, and pour over the onions. Now add the minced 
ham and parsley and cook for 15 minutes longer. To this mix- 
ture a<ld the chopi)ed peppers and the chicken stock and bring 
to a boil. Place the chicken in the fireless cooker vessel, pour 
over it this mixture of vegetables and let boil 5 minutes. Put 
at once into the Ih'elcss cooker. With the hot soapstone, let the 
chicken stay in the cooker for 2 hours; without hot stone, for 
3 hours. 

A ham bone may be substituted for the ham or bacon. If 
this is done, boil it for one-half hour in enough water to cover. 
Then add one cup of the ham broth to the tomato before cooking 
it with the bay leaf. This recipe gives a good way to use chicken 
too old to fry or broil. A similar dish can be made by using a 
quart of Canning Club soup mixture. When necessary, thicken 
th& broth with a little browned Hour before putting the chicken 
in the cooker. 

CEREALS. 

Hominy Grits. — Five cups water, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 cup hom- 
iny grits. Pick over and wash hominy grits. Have the salted 
water boiling and add the hominy slowly so as not to stop the 
boiling. Continue to boil rapidly for ten minutes over the fire, 
then place the vessel into the cooker as (juickly as possible and 
allow to remain (over night) for about 12 hours. The vessel of 
hominy may be placed in another vessel of boiling water before 
being placed in the cooker. 

Samp (Coarse Hominy. — One-half cup samp soaked in 1 
cup cold water 6 hours. Add H' teaspoon salt and 3 cups boiling 
water. Boil rapitlly 45 minutes. Put in cooker 8 to 12 hours. 

Oat Meal. — Three cups water, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 cup oat meal. 
Carefully look over the oat meal and remove any husks or for- 
eign substance. Atld gradually to the boiling salted water and 
boil rapidly for 10 minutes stirring constantly. Now it may be 
put into the cooker. After 2 or 3 hours it is soft, but a better 
flavor will be developed by longer cooking. It may remain in 

148 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

the cooker over night in the same manner the hominy grits are 
cooked (ahout 12 hours.) Next morning it may have to be 
reheated: to do this, set the cooker pan in a pan of water over 
the fire. When the water boils up well, the oat meal may be 
served. 

Plain Rice. — One cup rice, 3 cups water, 1% teaspoon salt. 
Look over and wash the rice through several waters, until 
cloudiness is removed. Bring the salted water to a boil. One- 
half teaspoon lard may be added. Then add rice gradually into 
the boiling water in the cooker vessel so as not to stop the 
boiling. The grains should be kept moving in the boiling water 
and allow to boil 5 minutes before putting it into the cooker 
for 45 minutes or an hour. 

There is considerable difference in rice. Old rice absorbs 
more water than new rice and the time for cooking it will vary. 
An hour will be sufficient usually for this small amount. Rice is 
injured by overcooking. When rice is tender, drain in colander 
and place in warm oven for about 5 minutes. Serve at once. 
Sometimes it is well after ilraining rice in colander to pour 
cold water over it. This will wash away the starchy substance 
between the grains, and keep them from adhering or sticking 
together. Then place the colander in a hot oven to heat and 
dry out the rice. If desired the lard may be omitted. It lends 
a brilliancy to the rice grains when cooked. 

Rice in Pilaf. — (An Oriental Mixture.) Two cups stock, 
1 cup rice, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon sugar, 2 
slices onion, G ripe tomatoes or 1 cup canned tomato juice, 1 
teaspoon salt, Vs teaspoon pepper, 1 tablespoon chopped green 
sweet pepper may be added. 

Look over and wash the rice. Chop the onion very finely 
and fry in 1 tablespoon of the butter until yellow\ Add to it 
the boiling juice of the tomatoes, and the boiling broth and al- 
low all to boil before adding the rice gradually so as not to stop 
the boiling. Boil mixture about 5 minutes and place in cooker 

1 hour. When ready to serve, add 1 tablespoon butter. Stir 
with a fork to mix evenly. Pilaf is injured by overcooking. 

Lesson No. 20-B. — Canning Clul). 

SOUPS. 
Vegetable Soup. — (Made without stock.) One-half cup carrots, 
% cup turnips, 1 cup potatoes, % cup onions, IV-i cups cabbage, 
3 cups tomato juice or 1 No. 3 can tomatoes, 1 tablespoon flour, 

2 teaspoons salt, 1 tablespoon celery seed (crushed), 1 quart 
water, 4 tablespoons butter, M> tablespoon parsley, % teaspoon 
pepper. 

Cut all vegetables (except potatoes and onions and parsley) 
into small pieces. Cook them for 10 minutes in 3 tablespoons 

149 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL_ 

butter. Add potatoes and cook 3 minutes longer. Mix all in- 
gredients (except parsley) in the cooker utensils and boil 5 
minutes. Mix 1 tablespoon butter and 1 teaspoon Hour; add 
enough of the liquor to make it smooth and pour it into the mix- 
ture, (look .") minutes more and place into the cooker lor 4 to 6 
hours. 

Creole Soup. — (Made with stock.) Stock two pounds shin 
beef (meat and bone), 1% quarts water. Cut the meat from the 
bone into small pieces. Crack the bone and soak 1 hour in 
cold water. Bring to boil slowly and when boiling place in 
cooker for 5 to 7 hours. When cooketl, strain and set away to 
cool. The cake of fat which forms on top when stock is cold 
seals the stock and keeps out air and germs and should not 
be removed until soup is to be made. Then fat is removed and 
stock heated and any seasonings or additions desired are put in. 

To 1 quart of this stock or 1 quart water in which chicken 
has been cooked, add quart of canned soup mixture and 2 
tablespoons rice or barley, bring to a boil and cook in cooker 
2 to 3 hours. This will make a delightful soup. 

Meat and Vegetable Combinations. — With the less tender 
cuts of beef and mutton which reciuire long, slow coking, deli- 
cious dishes may be prepared by adding vegetables and cooking 
in the fireless. 

Cut the meat in cubes, dredge with Hour and brown it in 
meat drippings or lard and butter. Then brown the onions in 
the same fat. For every 3 or 4 cups of meat, use one of the fol- 
lowing vegetable combinations or 1 quart of Canning Club soup 
mixture. Put into the fireless cooker vessel and add 1 cup boiling 
water with the first combination or two cups water with the 
second one. Boil for 5 minutes and put in cooker for 3 or 4 
hours. 

First: Second: 

2 cups okra. 2 cups potatoes. 

2 cups tomatoes. 1 cup turnips. 

2 onions. 1 cup carrots. 

P/l' teaspoons salt. 2 onions. 

% teaspoon pepper. V2 cup celery or 1 tablespoon 

celery seed crushed. 



Lesson No. 22. — Canning Club. 

FALL AND WINTER GARDENS. 

Geo. C. Pye, County Agent, Greenwood, Arkansas, otfers the 
following suggestions for fall and winter gardens: 

All weetls and trash should be gathered and burned so as 
to destroy the thousands of insects which are so numerous at 
this time of the year. 

150 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



Well rotted barn manure should be spread liberally over the 
ground and turned under carefully. 

The land should be plowed several times, followed each time 
by a good harrowing, thus making a well prepared seed bed. This 
must be done in order to secure moisture enough to germinate 
the seed. 

IMPORTANT: A well prepared seed bed or no garden. 



VEGETABLES 


VARIETY 


TIME TO PLANT. 


* BEANS 


Early Valentine 
Stringless Green Pod 


July 15 to August 15. 


BEETS 


Early Blood Turnip 
Early Eclipse 


August 1 to September 1. 


CABBAGE 


Early Drum Head 
Jersey Wakefield 
Savoy 


August 1 to September 1. (Plant In 
tlrills; thin out when 3 in. high. Leave 
plants 8 to 12 in. apart. Do not trans- 
plant.) 


*CARROTS 


Early Varieties 


August 1 to September 1. 



COLLARDS 



Georgia 



August 1 to August 15. (Plant in drills.) 



GREENS 



Mustard 

Rape 

Seven Top Turnips 



September 15 to December 1. (Plant 
every two weeks until there are thrifty 
plants.) 



KALE 



Dwarf German 



July 15 to September 15. 



♦LETTUCE 



Big Boston 



*ONIONS 



PEAS 



September 1 to October 31. (Plant every 
two weeks until good stand is secured. 
Some protection necessary in winter.) 



(Plant only 



Silver Skin varieties August 1 to November 1. 
large sets.) 



Eirst and Best 



August 15 to October 1. (This crop will 
succeed when winter is late setting in.) 



RADDISH Early Turnip Rooted September 1 to October 15. (Plant a 

White Icicle few seed every two weeks.) 

Chinese Rose 



RUTABAGAS Purple Top 



July 15 to August 15. (They will some- 
times succeed.) 



'SPINACH 



Bloomdale 



August 1 to November 1. (Plant every 
two weeks until there is a stand.) 



TURNIPS 



Purple Top Globe 
Early Amber Globe 
White Egg 



.Vugust 15 to September 30. (For best re- 
sults plant in drills and cultivate.) 



Note. — Vegetables marked with (*) are especially recommended for 
Canning Club members for their fall and winter garden work. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What attention should be given to the seed bed before 
planting fall and winter gardens? 

2. What is the advantage of having a fall and winter 
garden? 

3. Do you have a fall and winter garden at your home? 

4. Is it possible to grow vegetables in the fall and winter? 

5. What vegetables are especially recommended for fall 
and winter use? 

151 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

6. What special vegetables are recommended for Canning 
Club girls? 

7. About what part of the 1/10 acre should be planted for 
fall and winter gardens'? 

8. Shouhl there be more than one i)lanting of any of the 
vegetables reconnnen<led? 

9. Can you find use for >our hot bed and cold frame at 
this time of the vear? 



Lesson No. 23. — Canning Clul). 

FOOD THAT CAN BE USED SOMETIMES INSTEAD OF MEAT. 

(Peanuts, Soy Beans, Cowpeas and Milk.) 

Do you grow peanuts in your held? You ought to eat more 
peanuts. They are too good for the pigs to get them all. Do 
they make you sick? Then do not eat so many at one time; 
don't eat them between meals nor at night after supper and 
don't eat them so fast. 

Peanuts help to build muscle and keep you strong and make 
you grow, very much as does meat. They have lots of fat in 
them, too. Why not serve them for dinner or supper and in 
your school lunch? You can learn to make them into many 
delightful dishes. 

PEANUT BUTTER. 

P«un evenly roasted peanuts through a food chopper, using 
the blade that crushes the food. Measure these crushed nuts and 
a(hl "4 of a level teasjjoonful of salt to each cupful of peanuts. 
Stir the salt well into the nuts then put them through the chop- 
per two or three times. The peanut butter is then ready to use 
for making sandwiches, cookies, salads an<l other good things. 
It can be thinned with water and a little lemon juice or vinegar 
and used as a sala<l dressing for lettuce, bananas or pears. 

PEANUT COOKIES No. 1. 

2 tablespoons butter. ^i> teaspoon lemon juice. 

1 teaspoon baking pciwder. % to l^-.> cups flour. 

1 egg beaten. l^ii cups chopped nuts. A few 
^4 cup sugar. whole nuts. 

2 tablespoons milk. 

Cream butter and sugar, add eggs and milk gradualh, then 
Hour mixture, nuts and lemon juice. Drop from spoon to 
greased tins, put nut in center of each and bake. 

PEANUT COOKIES No. 2. 

2 cui)s flour. 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 1/3 cups crushed nuts. 2 tablespoons butter. 

% cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 egg. 2/,3 cup milk. 

152 



BOYS' AND GIR LS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Cream butter and sugar, add egg, slightly beaten, then the 
milk. Sift dry ingredients together and add to the sugar and 
butter mixture. Add the crushed nuts, roll very thin on iloured 
board, cut and bake in hot oven. 

PEANUT BREAD. 

(Enough for three loaves.) 

2^/4 pounds or 2 quarts sifted flour (more if Hour is soft.) 
% pound roasted and hulled peanuts. 

2 cakes yeast or 2 little cups liquid yeast. 

3 tablespoons sugar. 
1 VL> tablespoons salt. 

3^/4 cups lukewarm li(iuid, (water, milk, or equal parts 
water and milk.) 

Break the peanuts lightly into small pieces and mix 
thoroughly with the flour. Proceed from this point exactly as 
directed under the straight-dough method if compressed or 
liquid yeast is used, using only SV-t cups liquid instead of 1 quart. 
Place the loaves in the oven to bake when the dough in the 
indicator show's 2Yjt times the original volume. If dry yeast is 
used, soak 1 yeast cake in water as usual for 1 hour. Use this 
in making a sponge with IV2 quarts sifted flour and the required 
amount of salt. In the morning, or when the sponge is light, 
stir it until it is smooth, add the sugar, and, finally, the well- 
blended mixture of % quart of flour and % pound of crushed, 
roasted peanut meats. Knead until smooth and elastic, adding 
flour or water, if required to make the dough of the proper 
consistency. Cover and allow to rise again until quite light, 
divide and mould into loaves, allow to rise until the indicator 
shows 2^1; times the original volume, and bake as directed above. 

CREAM OF PEANUT SOUP. 

2 tablespoons butter. 4 cups milk. 

2 tablespoons flour. % to Vi- cup cracked parched 

Salt, pepper. peanuts. 

Make a thin, white sauce of the butter, flour and milk, add 
the peanuts and seasoning and boil one minute. Serve hot. 

Lesson No. 24. — Cannhig Club. 

SOY BEANS. 
Soy beans arc a very good food for people. They, too, help 
to cut down the meat bill. Try these recipes. 

SOY BEAN CROQUETTES. 

2 cups beans. - salt, black pepper, cayenne. 

1 egg. 3 tablespoons melted butter. 

V4 cup crumbs. 

153 



BOYS' AND GIPxLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB .AL\NUAL 



Cook beans in firelcss cooker over night. Rub through fine 
strainer. Mix half of beaten eggs with beans. Add salt, pepper 
and butter, brea<l crumbs, and mix well. Shape in cro(|uettes, 
roll lirst in egg and then in crumbs, being sure that the crocpiette 
is well coated on both sides with both egg and crumbs. Fry in 
deep fat and garnish with lemons and serve with tomato sauce. 
This mixture can be shaped and baked as a meat substitute loaf. 

SOY BEAN SOUFFLE. 

1 cup yellow beans. 1 teaspoon salt. 

2 tablespoons butter. % teaspoon pepper. 
4 tablespoons Hour. 2 or 3 eggs. 

1 cup milk. 

Soak beans 12 hours, cook 4 hours, drain and run through 
sieve. Melt butter, add flour then milk and boil one minute, 
stirring constantly. Add 2 cups bean pulp, cool and add beaten 
egg yelk and seasoning. Fold in beaten whites. Bake in buttered 
dish in a moderate oven 30 minutes. 

SOY BEAN BISCUIT. 

Two cups Hour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 
2 tablespoons shortening., about 2/3 cup liquid. You may sub- 
stitute VL> soy bean meal or 2/3 peanut meal. 

Alix thoroughly; sift two or three times to accomplish this. 
Cut shortening in with a knife; then rub between hands. This 
W'ill give a flaky texture to bread. Always work shortening in 
dry. Add licpiid; mix with knife or hand. Have dough as soft 
as nia> be handle<l, roll and cut and bake in oven 500 degrees F. 

MUFFINS. 

l^L" cups soy bean meal. 2 cups water. 

Steam for 1 hour; cooking takes away strong flavor. Y'ou 
may substitute rice, potato, grits or any cereal left over. Corn 
meal mush may be used. 

2 cups flour. 2 cups cooked material. 

1 Vi teaspoons salt. 2 teaspoons sugar. 

3 teaspoons baking powder. 2 eggs (beaten lightly.) 

2 tablespoons shortening. About V^ cup liquid. 

Sift baking i)owder with flour well. Dissolve sugar and 
salt in the liquid, or put in dry. Combine and mix well. Bake. 

SOY BEAN BREAD. 

(Enough for four loaves.) 

2V4 quarts sifted bread flour, (more if flour is soft.) 
% quart (3 cups) soy bean meal. 

1 quart lukewarm liquid, (milk, water or e(iual parts milk 
and water. 

4 tablespoons sugar. 

154 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

4 teaspoons salt. 

2 cakes yeast or 2 cups liquid yeast. 

If liquid yeast is used, a corresponding reduction must be 
made in the remaining liquid used for the dough. If dry yeast 
is used, follow directions given under "Peanut Bread" with dry 
yeast, making a sponge at night with part of the flour, salt, 
water and yeast. In the morning, add the sugar and the mixture 
of soy-bean meal and the remaining flour. Mix the soy bean meal 
thoroughly with the flour by sifting together twice. Rub the 
yeast smooth with a small portion of the lukewarm liquid. 
Dissolve the sugar and salt in the rest of the liquid and add to 
the yeast mixture. Mix this liquid with the flour and say bean 
meal, adding more flour if necessary to make a dough stiff 
enough to knead, kneading until a smooth and elastic dough has 
been formed. Cover and set aside in a moderately warm place 
until the dough has doubled in volume. Then cut down from 
the sides of the bowl, knead, and if too soft or too stiff, add flour 
or water to make a dough of the proper consistency. Have the 
dough a trifle softer than for ordinary bread. Cover and set 
to rise again until double in bulk. Cut down from the sides of 
the bowl, divide into four equal portions and mold into loaf 
shape, place in greased and slightly warmed pans, and allow to 
rise until double in bulk according to indicator. Bake in mod- 
erately hot oven 45 to 50 minutes. Other dry meals, such as 
corn meal, finely ground oat meal, barley, ground rice, rye flour, 
kafir, niilo, feterita, dried peas, beans, etc., may be used in 
place of the soy bean meal in this recipe. Allow dough contain- 
ing the cereals to rise until the indicator shows 2Vj times the 
original volume. 

Lesson No. 25. — Canning Club. 

COWPEAS. 
We used to cook peas with salt pork every time we served 
them. Cook them different ways then you won't get tired 
of them. 

COWPEA SOUP. 

2 tablespoons butter. 1 tablespoon chopped onion. i 

2 tablespoons flour. 2 tablespoons chopped celery or 

V2 bay leaf. parsley. 

Salt, pepper. 1 cup dried cowpeas. 

Soak the peas over night in water enough to cover, then 
boil 3 or 4 hours in clear water. (Fireless cooker may be used 
to advantage here.) Dry onion in the fat until it is tender but 
not brown. Rub into this the flour, then add 2 cups of water 
from the cooked peas, the bay leaf, celery, parsley, salt and 
pepper. Mash the cooked peas through a strainer and add them 

155 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

to the soup mixture. Add hot water, or the remaining water 
from the peas if there is any, enough to make 6 cups of soup. 
Serve very hot. 

COWPEA LOAF. 

2 cups cooked cowpeas. 

1 cup cooked rice or stale hread crumbs. 
Vi cup grated cheese (if you have it). 

2 slices fat pork. 

2 tablespoons chopped onion. 

2 tablespoons chopped sweet pepper. 

2 medium tomatoes peeled and chopped. 

1 bay leaf crushed. 

2 teaspoons ketchup. 
Pinch black pepper, salt. 
2 tablespoons tlour. 

Mash peas and rice, or run through vegetable press. Fry 
the pork until it is crisp and brown, remove from pan and break 
in bits. Add onion to the fat and cook until brown, add flour, 
tomatoes, peppers, bay leaf, bits of meat and ketchup. Cook 
until smooth and thickened. Add to the rice and pea mixture. 
Season and make into a loaf, acKling bread crumbs or hot water, 
which ever is needed. Garnish with strips of bacon ^4-inch 
wide and bake as you would a loaf made of cooked meat. 

Note. — This mixture may he nKuic into i-rofiuettes anil fried in deep fat, 
or as a fillins for stufl'i'tl peppers or tomatoes. 



Lesson No. 20. — Canning Cliil). 

MILK. 

IJy HELEN S. BROWN, 
District Home Demonstration Agent. 

Milk, the only food of the young of the human and other 
animals, is the most essential of foods for children. If every 
child should have a quart of milk per day why not use more 
for the whole family? For those members of the family who do 
not like raw milk, let us conceal it by using in some of the fol- 
lowing ways: 

MILK SOUP. 

The ingredients of milk soups may be grouped under four 
heads: (1) a li(iuid; (2) a starchy substance used for thickening; 
(3) a fatty substance, and (4) flavoring. The liquid may be 
milk, either whole or skim, or a mixture of two or more of the 
following in any proi)ortion. Meat stock, water, cream, vegetable 
juice, including pulp. The starchy substance may be Hour, corn- 
starch, or potato starch. The proi)ortions are usually three- 
fourths of a level tablespoon of flour and an ecpial amount of 
butter to each cup of li(iuid. If starch is substituted for Hour, 

15G 



BOYS ' AND GIR LS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

one half tablespoon to a cup will usually be found sufficient. 
An interesting school exercise may be arranged by having 
students make potato starch and use it for thickening these 
soups or in other ways. The following recipes for soup and 
chowder will serve six children generously: 

CREAM OF PEA SOUP. 

1 can peas or 1 quart fresh peas. 

1 pint milk. 

2 tablespoons butter. 1 teaspoon salt. 

2 tablespoons flour. Vi teaspoon pepper. 

Heat the peas in their own liquor or cook them in boiling, 
salted water until tender. Drain off the liquid and rub the peas 
through a strainer. Scald the milk and add to it the butter and 
flour rubbed to a smooth paste. Cook 1 minute, add the peas, 
salt and pepper. Boil for a few minutes and serve at once. 

CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP. 

1 pint or 1 can tomatoes. 1 quart milk. 

2 tablespoons butter. Sprig parsley. 

1 tablespoon flour. • i/4 teaspoon white pepper. 

1 teaspoon sugar. I'ii teaspoon soda. 

1 teaspoon salt. 

Cook the tomatoes slowly with the flavoring for 10 minutes 
and rub through a strainer. Scald the milk, thicken with the 
flour and butter rubbed to a paste; reheat the tomatoes and add 
the soda; combine with the milk and serve at once. 

POTATO CHOWDER. 

6 medium sized potatoes, sliced. 1 tablespoon flour. 

Vi lb. salt pork. 1 pint milk. 

1 tablespoon chopped onion. 1 pint water. 

1 tablespoon butter. 1 teaspoon salt. 

Fry the onions and pork together until both are a delicate 
brown. Put a layer of the sliced potatoes into a kettle, then a 
layer of onions and pork, and sprinkle with salt. Repeat this 
until those materials are all used. Pour over them the grease 
from the pan in which the pork and onions were fried and add 
the water. Cover and sinmier 20 minutes or until potatoes are 
tender. Thicken the milk with the flour mixed with the butter 
and pour it over the potatoes. 

Lesson No. 27. — Canning Club. 

SAUCES. 

By HELEN S. BROWN, 
District Home Demonstration Agent. 

There is a great variety of sauces which can be used in the 
home to serve with meat or vegetables and can also be used in 
making sandwich fillings. In a general way they are like milk 

157 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

soups, except that more flour is used. Two tablespoonfuls of 
flour and 2 tablespoons of butter or other fat are usually allowed 
for each cup of liquid. This liquid may be water, broth, tomato 
juice, milk, cream, the water in which vegetables are cooked, or 
a combination of two or more of these. 

TOMATO SAUCE. 

l^L' cups tomato juice. 1 slice onion. 

1* tablespoons flour. Sprig parsley. 

2 tablespoons butter. ^-i teaspoon salt. 

^s teaspoon pepper. 

Add the seasoning to the tomato juice and sinuner until the 
li(iui(l has been reduced to about 1 cup. Melt the butter in a 
saucepan, stir in the flour, and when this is smooth add the 
strained tomato juice, (^ook for a few minutes or until smooth 
and thick. The tomato juice may be used plain, omitting the 
first cooking with the seasoning. This will provide a table- 
spoon for each of 10 people. 

WHITE SAUCE. 

2 tablespoons butter. ^-j teaspoon salt. 

2 tablespoons flour. V-i teaspoon pepper. 

1 cup milk. 

Melt the butter, stir in the flour, and cook until smooth, but 
not brown; add the milk and cook until smooth and creamy. 
Season. Serve with cabbage, onions or even hot toast, shredded 
meat, lish, etc. This makes 12 portions of 1 tablespoon each. 

MILK TOAST. 

Toast bread or cold biscuits a good brown. Arrange in bowl; 
pour hot white sauce over the toast. If desired, add 1 teaspoon 
sugar and a little nutmeg to the white sauce. 

HOT COCOA. 

14 cup cocoa. 1 cup water. 

.*} cups milk. % cup sugar. 

1 tablespoon cornstarch. % teaspoon salt. 

Mix cocoa, cornstarch and water; boil 10 minutes. Add milk 
and sugar to the mixture and cook about 10 minutes more. Add 
salt. Beat w^ell and serve. Whipped cream adds food value 
and makes delicious. 



Lesson, Xo. 28. — Canning Cliilj. 

HOW TO USE DRIED FRUITS. 

By HKLKX S. BUOWN, 
District Homo Demonstration Agent. 

Do you know how good dried fruits can be? Let us learn 
to use them in other ways besides sauce. How many ways do 

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BOYS' AND GIRL S' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

you plan to use that peck or more of dried apples? Remember 
these general rules for cooking all dried fruits, whether prunes, 
peaches or apples. 

1. Wash dried fruit in cold water. 

2. Let soak in cold water over night or until it has regained 
natural size. 

3. Cook in an enamelware or an earthenware dish. Tin 
or iron gives unpleasant flavor and an undesirable color. 

4. After soaking the fruit, cook it slowly on the back of the 
stove. 

5. Cook in the water in which the fruit has been sojlked. 

6. Do not sweeten until half done. 

APPLES. 

Why not serve apple sauce for breakfast with a bowl of 
well-cooked mush? Then serve peach sauce with well-cooked 
oat meal for another breakfast. For a light dessert use one of 
these, either apple or peach whip, scalloped apples or bread and 
apple pudding. 

Soak 6 to 8 hours, or overnight, using 6 pints of water to 1 
pound of apples or 3 parts of water to 1 part of apples. Two 
hours' soaking is sufficient for thinly sliced apples. Commercial 
apples are sulphured and do not discolor. 

APPLE SAUCE. 

Cook about 30 minutes in the same water; then add 1 cup of 
sugar to 1 pound of fruit, Vi; teaspoonful of nutmeg or cinnamon 
and mash. 

APPLE PIE. 

Cook in the same water about 5 minutes to make them 
tender, then drain oft" water and use in pie in the same way as 
fresh apples. One pound of dried apples will make 8 large pies. 

APPLE BUTTER. 

Wash apples, let soak in cold water until they have regained 
natural size. Cook slowly until tender. Run through sieve or 
strainer. Add sugar to taste. 

APPLE WHIP. 

Take 2 cups of apple sauce or apples, cooked and run 
throufgh a sieve. Beat the whites of 2 eggs until stift". Graflually 
beat in the apple; sweeten to taste, beating in sugar gradually. 
Flavor with a little nutmeg or cinnamon. Pile on a cold dish, 
serve plain with whipped cream or a boiled custard made of the 
yellows of the eggs. 

BREAD AND BUTTER APPLE PUDDING. 

Cover bottom of a shallow baking dish with apple sauce, cut 
stale bread in 1/3-inch slices, spread with softened butter, re- 
move crusts and cut in triangular shaped pieces, then arrange 

159 



BOYS' AND (ilHLS' AilP.ICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

closely over the apple. Sprinkle generously with sugar, add few 
drops of vanilla. Bake in moderate oven; serve with cream. 

PEACH BUTTER. 

Wash dried peaches; let soak in cold water until they have 
regained their natural size. Cook slowly until tender in the 
water they were soaked in. When soft run through a sieve. 
Season with sugar and spices if desired. 

PEACH WHIP. 

Take whites of two eggs, beat stifT; have cooked and run 
through sieve 2 cups of peaches. Add slowly to the beaten 
eggs. If a less fluffy whip is desired, use 3 cups of peaches to 
2 egg whites. Add sugar to taste and nutmeg if liked. Serve 
plain, with whipped cream or a custard made of the egg yelks 
This dessert is light, suitable for children or sick, as well as 
for the rest of the family. 

Lesson X<i. 29. — Canning Club. 

BREADS— WHEAT AND WHEAT SUBSTITUTES. 

Every club girl wants to be a successful bread maker. Let's 
practice on both yeast and quick breads. Be sure to use some 
of the wheat substitutes. They are good for us and will mean 
more wheat for the hungry world. These recipes are by Mrs. 
Hannah Wessling of the Bureau of Chemistry. 

BAKING POWDER BISCLFITS. 

2 cups Hour. 

4 teaspoons baking powder. 

1^2 teaspoons salt. 

2 tablespoons butter or other fat. 

About % cup milk, water or a mixture of the two. 

Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Work in the fat with a 
fork or with the lingers. Add the liquid gradually, making a 
dough that is of the right consistency to roll out easily. Turn 
out on a Iloured board and roll to one-half inch in thickness. Cut 
with a biscuit cutter, place in a buttered pan and bake in a hot 
oven about 15 minutes. An easier way is to add so much liquid 
that the biscuits can be dropped from a spoon on the baking tin. 
This saves the use of board and roUijig pin. Baking powder 
biscuits and many other kinds of bread that are served hot con- 
tain more fat than ordinary wheat bread does and are usually 
eaten with more butter. These facts should be taken into con- 
sideration in jjlanning meals, particularly those which are to 
be kept within a given fuel value. 

50 PER CENT FLOUR SUBSTITUTE BISCUIT. 

2 cui)s corn meal or soy bean meal, peanut meal, rice flour, 
or other substitute. 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



2 cups white flour. 

4 teaspoons baking powder. 

2 teaspoons salt. 

4 tablespoons shortening. 

Liquid sufficient to mix to proper consistency (1 to 1% cups.) 

Sift together the flour, meal, salt, and baking powder twice. 
Have the shortening as cold as possible and cut it into the mix- 
ture with a knife, finally rubbing it in with the hands. Mix 
quickly with the cold liquid (milk, skim-milk or water) forming 
a fairly soft dough which can be rolled on the board. Turn 
onto a floured board; roll into a sheet not over one-half inch 
thick, but into rounds; place these in lightly floured biscuit tins 
(or shallow pans) and bake 10 to 12 minutes in a rather hot oven. 

SWEET POTATO MUFFINS. 

IVj cups cooked sweet potato (Irish potatoes may be used 
instead with or without the sugar.) 

1% cups sifted white flour. 2 tablespoons sugar. 

1 teaspoon salt. 2 eggs. 

2 teaspoons baking powder. 2 tablespoons shortening. 
Liquid sufficient to make a rather stiff batter (about % cup.) 
Boil the potatoes in the skins until tender, drain, peel and 

mash fine. Putting the potatoes through a ricer or colander is 
better than mashing. Sift together the flour, salt, sugar and bak- 
ing powder twice. Beat the eggs until light and add to the cool 
mashed potato. Next add the melted shortening, then the flour 
mixture, alternating with portions of the liquid, until a batter 
is formed somewhat stifTer than for ordinary flour nuiflins. 
Drop by spoonfuls into greased muffin pans until half filled and 
bake 20 to 25 minutes in a fairly hot oven. 

SOY BEAN. RICE. OAT MEAL, CORN MEAL, OR WHITE POTATO MUFFINS. 

In the above recipe, replace the cooked sweet potato with 
any cooked cereal, such as rice, oat meal, corn meal or with 
cooked soy bean meal, cooked or baked dasheen, etc. When 
using any substance containing cooked starch it is necessary to 
have the batter rather stifTer than for wheat flour muffins. 

CORN BREAD. 

One: Two: 

2 cups corn meal. 2 cups corn meal. 

2 cups sweet milk (whole or 2 cups sour milk, 

skim.) 1 teaspoon soda. 

4 teaspoons baking powder. 2 tablespoons fat. 

1 tablespoon sugar. 1 teaspoon salt. 

2 tablespoons fat. 1 egg (may be omitted.) 
I teaspoon salt. 1 tablespoon sugar. 

1 egg (may be omitted.) 

Mix dry ingredients. Add milk, well-beaten egg, and melted 
fat. Beat well. Bake in a shallow pan for about 30 minutes. 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



SPOON BREAD. 

2 cups water. 1 tablespoon fat. 

1 cup milk (whole or skim.) 2 eggs. 

1 cup corn meal. 2 teaspoons salt. 

Mix water and corn meal and bring to the boiling point and 
cook 5 minutes. Beat eggs well and add with other materials 
to the mush. Beat well and bake in a well greased pan for 25 
minutes in a hot oven. Serve from the same dish with a spoon. 
Enough for six. 

CORN MEAL COOKIES. 

V2 cup sifted flour. 1 cup sugar. 

IMi cups fine corn meal. 3 tablespoons butter. 

1 teaspoon salt. 1 egg. 

2 teaspoons baking powder. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. 

Milk suflicient to mix (about one-half cup.) 
Follow directions given for soy bean wafers, adding, how- 
ever, the well-beaten eggs to the creamed butter and sugar, then 
the flavoring extract, and finally the flour mixture and milk. Roll 
thin, cut and bake until a delicate brown. 



Lesson No. 30. — Canning Club. 

LIGHT OR YEAST BREAD. 

LONG FERMENTATION METHOD— OVERNIGHT SPONGE. 

(Enough for four loaves.) 

3 pounds or 3 scant quarts sifted flour (more if flour is soft). 
1 cake yeast, dry or compressed, or \-> cup liquid yeast. 

1 quart lukewarm liquid. 

2 tablespoons sugar. 
IV2 tablespoons salt. 

3 tablespoons shortening if desired. 

Where liquid yeast is used its volume must be included in 
the total liquid required. If dry yeast is used it should be 
soaked in some lukewarm water for an hour before mixing with 
the flour. This amount of water will form part of the total 
liquid required for mixing. In the evening measure or weigh 
out into the mixing bowl one-half the required amount of flour, 
and if the weather be cold, warm slightly. Mix the yeast, rub- 
bed smooth, with two-thirds of the total amount of lukewarm 
li(iuid in which has been dissolved the salt. Add this yeast mix- 
ture to the flour, beat thoroughly, cover, and place where it 
will be from Go to 75 degrees F. In weather moderately warm 
neither the flour nor the water need be heated. In hot weather, 
it is better not to set a sponge overnight, since there is great 
danger of it turning sour before morning, unless the dough 
can be kept cool enough. 

102 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL » 

In the morning sift the sugar with the rest of the flour and 
warm. Beat up the sponge thoroughly, add the remaining one- 
third of liquid, which may be warm enough to bring the tepmera- 
ture of the sponge up to 80 to 88 degrees. Next add the w\arm 
flour and sugar, then the softened shortening, if the latter is 
desired. Should the dough be too soft or too stifT, add flour or 
liquid, a little at a time, kneading it in thoroughly until a dough 
of the proper consistency is formed; knead until the dough is 
smooth and elastic and no longer sticks to the l)owl or finger. 
Cover and set where it will be kept at about 80 to 88 degrees. 
Allow to rise 2 hours or until quite light. 

Cut down from the sides of the bowl, grease the hands 
lightly and knead just enough to expel the largest bubbles of 
gas. Cut ofT a bit of dough to serve as an indicator; divide the 
rest into four equal portions, mold each quickly, stretching the 
outside of the loaf and pinching together underneath; place 
crease side down in lightly greased pans which have been 
warmed but are not hot. Set the loaves in the same warm 
place and allow to rise 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until the indi- 
cator shows two or three times the original volume, depending 
upon the kind of flour used. Place in the oven and bake 50 
minutes. The oven should be about 425 degrees at first and may 
then decrease gradually until about 375. 

SCORING BREAD. 

It is very helpful, especially for a beginner in the art of 
bread making, to know what the characteristics of a good 
loaf of bread are. 

Appearance. — First of all, bread should be attractive in ap- 
pearance. This requires that it should be of good shape, evenly 
rounded on top, with a smooth unbroken crust, having neither 
breaks nor bulges. It should be of uniform golden brown color 
over the entire loaf. 

Lightness. — It should be light i. e., be relatively large for its 
weight. 

Crust. — When the loaf is cut the crust should be found of 
even thickness over the entire loaf and shoukl be crisp and 
tender rather than hard and tough. 

Color of crumb. — The crumb should be of a pale creamy tint 
with a satiny luster or sheen as one looks across the loaf. 

Texture. — The grain of the loaf should be fine and even, 
having many small cells, more or less uniform in size, rather 
than fewer cells of larger size. A good bread flour, properly 
handled during the process of bread making, will usually yield 
cells oblong in shape rather than round, while the feel of it 
will be soft and almost velvety. 

163 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Elasticity. — The loaf should he elastic so that if pressed 
rather firmly between the hands it will spring back to its 
original shape when the pressure is removed. This elasticity 
is also evident if the cut portion of a loaf is pressed with the 
fingers and shows no impression after the pressure is removed. 

Flavor. — Above everything, however, ranks flavor, for bread 
is made to be eaten and no matter how attractive in appearance 
within or without, the loaf which does not taste and smell good 
will never be a desirable one. 

BREAD SCORE CARD. 

1. General appearance (form, smoothness of 

crust, uniformity and depth of color 1.3 points. 

2. Size and lightness of loaf 10 points. 

3. Crust (crispness, tenderness) 10 points. 

4. Crumb — color 5 points. 

5. Crumb — texture (fineness antl uniformity of 

grain) 10 points. 

(). Crumb — elasticity (softness, pliability, springi- 
ness) - 10 points. 

7. Flavor and odor 40 points. 

Total 100 points 

Lesson No. 31. — Canning Cliil). 

STORED VEGETABLES AND THEIR USES. 

By HELEN S. BROWN, 

District Home Demonstration Agent. 

BAKED POTATOES. 

Select smooth, medium sized potatoes; scrub clean with 
vegetable brush. Place in pan, bake in hot oven until soft. 
Test by pressing with finger — <lo not punch with fork while 
baking. When done, break potato to let steam escape. If steam 
is allowed to cool and condense in the potatoes they will be 
soggy. Serve hot with salt and butter. 

BOILED POATOES. 

Select smooth medium sized potatoes, scrub clean and pare 
thinly. Drop in boiling salt water and boil gently until soft. 
When done drain oft' water and shake over fire until dry. Serve 
very hot with lueat gravy or butter. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

C) jiotatoes. 1 teaspoon salt, speck pepper. 

',] tablespoons butter. 1/3 cup milk (about.) 

Mash the hot boiled potatoes, add butter, salt, pepper and 
enough hot milk to moisten. Keep hot and beat until light and 
creamv. Pile lightly in a hot dish. Serve hot. 

164 



BOYS' AND GIRLS ' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

CREAMED POTATOES. 

Take 1 cup hot white sauce. (See milk lesson.) Add 2 cups 
diced cooked potatoes, reheat and serve. 

MASHED TURNIPS. 

Wash and pare turnips, cut in slices and cook in boiling 
salted water until tender, from 35 to 45 minutes. Drain, mash 
and season with butter, salt and pepper. 

CREAMED TURNIPS. 

Wash and pare turnips, cut in 1-inch cubes. Drop into boil- 
ing salted water, boil until tender. To 3 cups turnips take 1 cup 
medium white sauce. Drain turnips, reheat in white sauce, serve. 

SWEET POTATO PUFF. 

Select smooth, medium sized potatoes, wash well, pare very 
thinly. Cook until tender in boiling salted water. Drain, mash 
and add 1 tablespoon butter to 2 cups potato. Beat until light 
and fluffy. Put in buttered baking dish, brown lightly in the 
oven. Serve hot. This dish may be much improved by adding 
1 cup nut meats, as pecans, black walnuts or peanuts. 

GLAZED SWEET POTATOES. 

Wash and pare six medium sized potatoes. Cook 10 minutes 
in boiling salted water. Drain. Cut in halves lengthwise and put 
in a buttered pan. Make a sirup by boiling 3 minutes % cup 
sugar, 4 tablespoons water and 1 tablespoon butter. Brush 
potatoes with sirup and bake 40 minutes, basting twice with 
remaining sirup. 

COOKING DRIED VEGETABLES. 

It must be remembered that the water which has been dried 
out of vegetables must be restored to them before cooking and 
that this process requires time. In general, the longer it takes 
to dry the longer should the dried products soak. Because the 
kind of vegetable (old and tough or young and tender) the size 
of the pieces (large or small), and the amount of moisture 
which the dried product contains affect the length of time the 
vegetable should soak and the club girl must use her best judg- 
men in selecting the method of preparation best suited to her 
own products. Once soaked, dried vegetables can be cooked 
in almost any of the ways in which fresh ones can be cooked. 

BEANS. 

Wash. Soak over night in three times as much water as 
beans. Cook in same water used for soaking about 2 hours. 
Season with butter. Do not salt until three-fourths done. A 
white sauce may be served with these. 

PEA PUREE, 

Wash peas. Soak over night then drain. Add fresh water 
and cook at simmer point until tender. Press through a strainer. 

165 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Season with butter, salt, pepper and onion juice if liked. Add 
three times as much milk as pea pulp. Serve hot. 

TOMATOES— BROILED. 

Wash and cut tomatoes in halves, crosswise. Place them, 
with cut surface up in a frying pan without fat. Cook on top 
of range or in oven at low temperature for about 30 minutes 
or until tomatoes are soft, but not broken. Add a bit of butter 
to each half of tomato and season with salt and pepper. Serve 
at once. This is very nice served on cri.sp, hot toast. 

TOMATO SURPRISE. 

Cut stem end from tomato. In hole made drop an egg. 
Place in oven and bake until egg is firm. Fleck with butter, salt 
and pepper. Place on toast and serve at once. 




Showing Strong and Weak Constitution. 

Lesson No. 1. — Poultry Clulj. 

INSTRUCTIONS TO POULTRY CLUB MEMBERS. 

1. Girls joining the Poultry Club nmst be between 10 and 18 
years of age on January 1st of any given year. 

2. Any boy or girl may become a member by signing the 
regular application card. 

3. A first year member nuist set at least one setting of 
thirteen eggs from standard variety of chickens during the hatch- 
ing season. 

4. A second year member must set at least three settings 
of thirteen eggs from standard variety of chickens during the 
hatching season. 

166 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



5. Each girl must plan to do as much as possible of her 
own work and keep strict account of all expenses, such as feed, 
labor (for which 10c an hour should be charged) sale of chick- 
ens, sale of eggs, number of eggs set, number hatched, etc. 

6. Each member must agree to study the Instructions. 

7. Each member must agree to send to the local Canning 
Club Agent on November 30th, the record of her year's work 
made out on a blank furnished by the Agent. 

8. Each member should write a history of her year's work. 

9. Each first year member is expected to exhibit at the 
County Fair or County Contest in the fall, a pair of chickens 
of her own raising. 

10. Each second year member is expected to exhibit at the 
County Fair or County Contest in the fall, a pair of chickens and 
one dozen eggs of her own raising. 

IL All prizes on live poultry must be decided in accordance 
with the standards of the breeds of the American Standard of 
Perfection, published by the American Poultry Association 
Sanders Publishing Co., Chicago. 

12. State prizes will be offered for the following standard 
varieties only: Plymouth Rocks, Wyandottes, Rhode Island 
Reds, Leghorns, and Orpingtons. 

13. Incubators are not to be used. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What are the requirements for membership in the Poul- 
try Club? 

2. What are first year members required to do? 

3. What are second year members required to do? 

4. What must the record book of Poultry Club members 
show? 

5. What constitutes an exhibit of first year members? 
Second year members? 

Lesson No. 2.— Poultry Club. 

VARIETY OF CHICKENS— NEST. 

By G. C. WATKINS. 

Your chickens or eggs are to be of the following standard 
varieties: 

Plymouth Rock Leghorns 

Rhode Island Red Orpingtons 

Wyandottes 

If you are starting this year with four hens and a rooster: 
Gather eggs daily. 

Keep in cool place away from drafts. 
If the eggs are kept long turn half over twice a week. 
Select normal size and shaped eggs for setting 
1G7 



BOYS' AND GIRLS ' AGRICUL TURAL CLUB MANUAL 

If you are starting with thirteen eggs they must be from the 
above standard varieties of chickens. If they are tcept long 
before setting follow the above rules. 

Do not wait until you are ready to set your eggs before you 
prepare the nest. Select a dry place in the hen house or shed 
away from the strong light and up olF the ground about two 
feet. Prepare a box about 16 inches long, 16 inches wide and 
16 inches high with tight sides and top, a narrow strip above 
five inches wide across the front of the box to keep the nesting 
material from falling out. Nail a strip about four inches wide 
on the bottom of the front edge of the box for the hen to fly 
upon when she gets in and out of the nest. 

Sprinkle the inside of the box with snuft' or small pieces of 
tobacco leaves. 

Make the nest in a shallow saucer shape of dry and clean 
straw, hay, dry leaves, or pine needles. 

After the hen has set two or three days on a nest egg in 
the old place she will be ready for her new nest. 

Late in the afternoon place the thirteen standard variety 
eggs in the nice new nest. 

Next take the hen by the feet, hold her head down and dust 
the feathers well with insect powder, especially under the wings. 

After dark carefully place the hen on her new nest. 

Mark the date of setting of hen on a calendar. 

Feed the hen while she is setting, with whole corn, wheat or 
oats. Put this in a little box where she can get it just after she 
comes from the nest. Fresh water and grit should also be right 
near the nest. 

Dust the sitting hen with insect powder once a week. 

Watch the hen to see that she sits regularly. It is well for 
her to be olT the nest about one-half hour each day. 

Three weeks after the date of sitting, thirteen little downy 
chicks should hatch, which the next letter will tell you how to 
care for. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. What varieties of chickens are reconunended for Poultry 
CUiIj members? 

2. Are you familiar with these varieties? 

3. How often should eggs be gathered, and what care should 
l)e taken of eggs after gathering? 

4. Describe how to make a good nest. 

."). What should be the shape of the nest, and what are some 
good nuiterials for making nests? 

6. Why is it a good plan to sprinkle the inside of the nest 
with snulT or pieces of tobacco leaves? 

7. What care should be given the sitting hen? 

8. How long does it require to hatch the chickens? 

168 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



Lesson No. 3. — Poultry Club. 

CHICKEN HOUSES AND COOPS. 

By G. C. WATKINS. 

In planning to build a new chicken house or remodel an 
old one remember that you are planning for the comfort of the 
chickens and your own convenience. 

Make the chicken house have plain shed roof covered with 
roofing felt that will turn any kind of weather. 

5 feet high at back or north side. 

7 feet high at front or south side. 

As long and as wide as you need it. 

Have good tight walls on north, east and west. 

Leave the south side open. 

Cover with wire netting. 

Have a door in each end. 
Build a dropping platform across the north side against the 
wall just half way from floor to roof. Make the platform 30 
inches wide. Place the roosts about a foot above the plat- 
form. The nest boxes which should be made of empty soap or 
cracker boxes may be set under this platform facing the back. 
This will afTord a nice hiding place for the hens when they go 
on the nest to lay. 

Don't make up a lot of nests and nail them fast to the side 
of the building. Have all furnishings so they can be easily taken 
out and cleaned. 




Showing Comparison of Eggs from Mongrel or Scrub Variety and Pure Bred Variety. 

109 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CL UB MA NUAL 

If you do not care to follow the above plan, build with an 
open south front so that the sunshine may reach every part of 
the inside of the house on every sunny day. 

Keep the inside of the hen house well white-washed. 

Use a little coal oil at the ends of the roost poles where they 
rest on their sui)ports. 

Keep the dropping board covered lightly with fresh soil. 

Clean it ot!" Saturday evening and put the droppings in the 
garden. 

An earthen floor is next best after cement. 

Keep the floor well littered with straw or leaves which 
should be cleaned out and put on the garden once a month. 

Feed hoppers and water fountains should be hung on the 
wall or set on small platforms where the litter will not get in 
them. 

Keep everything clean. 

BROOD COOPS. 

A good brood coop for the hen and chickens may be made 
from an empty dry goods box about 3 feet long by 2 feet wide 
and high. 

Take the cover otT and nail narrow slats across this opening 
an inch and half apart. 

Turn the box tlown so this will be the front. 

Take the board oft" the back and replace with leather hinges 
and a button for convenience in cleaning and to put in and take 
out the hen. 

Cover the top with a piece of oil cloth or roofing felt. 

Cover the floor with fresh soil and clean out twice a week. 

A wide board propped up against the front at night will 
keep out rats, weasles and skunks. 

Keep the hen in the coop and let the chicks run out. 

Keep the things sweet and clean and never let the coop get 
"smelly." 

QUESTIONS. 

1. In planning a chicken house, what should you keep in 
mind? 

2. Give two plans for a good chicken house. 

3. What care should be given to the house? 

4. Describe a good coop and tell how it should be kept. 

Lesson No. 4. — Poulli y Club. 

FEED FOR CHICKS. 

By G. C. WATKINS. 

Do not feed your little chicks for 36 hours after they have 
been hatched. 

First day feed: Butter milk or sour milk in a clean dish. 
170 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Second day feed: Toasted bread or thoroughly dried bread, 
without grease, moistened with buttermilk. Fresh water, or 
hard boiled eggs and fresh water, or Rolled Oats moistened with 
buttermilk, and fresh water. 

Fifth day: Dry bran in a shallow box. Cover the bottom of 
the box thickly with bran. Tack a narrow strip arountl the 
edge of the box to keep the chicks from scratching out the bran. 

Always give plenty of fresh clean water. Make some char- 
coal for your chicks. Give plenty of fine grit or coarse sand. 

Third week feed: A dry mash in a box of: 2 parts ground 
oats, 2 parts cracked wheat, 1 part corn meal, 1 part cheap flour. 

Once a day add to the dry mash two parts bran and moisten 
with a little buttermilk or water, feed just enough for the 
chickens to eat up in five minutes. 

If you cannot get ground oats, soak oats 24 hours in water, 
spread them out in a box, cover with a cloth, keep damp until 
they sprout, then feed. 

Feed the dry bread crumbs or rolled oats all the time. 

Feed green food all the time. 

Make a frame about 8 feet long, 4 feet wide and 3 feet high, 
cover the top and sides with chicken wire. In one corner nail 
a box big enough for the hens and chickens to roost in. Keep 
the hen and chicks in this pen night and day for six weeks. Move 
the pen once a day over the green grass. 




Brood Coops for Hens and Chicks. 

171 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Important points toward success: 
First. Always give clean water. 
Second. Always give clean food. 
Third. Always have eating and sleeping place clean. 

QUESTIONS. 

1. How long should you wait to feed the chicks after they 
hatch? 

2. What kind of feed is rccomniendcd for the first day? 
Second day? Fifth day? Third week? 

.3. Ahout how much should chickens he fed at a time? 

4. What size pen is recommended for the hen and her 
chicks? 

."). Why is it necessary to have such a pen and how long 
should you keep them 'n it? 

(). Name three essentials towartl success. 

7. Have you practiced these three and do you know them to 
he safe? 



Lt'ssoii No. "). — Poultry (Jul). 

LICE AND MITES. 

By G. C. WATKINS. 

Look out for lice and mites as they are the indirect cause 
of a great many chicken trouhles. 

The first ones to look for in the Spring are the tiny red 
mites that live in the cracks of the nest boxes and under the 
ends of the roost poles or in any little crack or cranny where 
they can hide during the day and come out and suck the blood 
of the chickens at night. They cause disease by causing weak- 
ness in the fowls due to loss of blood. Sitting hens often desert 
their nests because of the millions of mites sapping her life's 
blood. They are very small and you have to look closely to 
find them. 

Cleanliness is one of their worst enemies. 

Keep the roost and quarters wdiitewashed. 

Turn the roost poles over and pour a little coal oil on 
the under side and on the supports where they rest, once a week. 

Do not use coal oil about the nests as a drop of coal oil on 
the sitting hen's feathers will cause every unhatched chick in 
her nest to die in the shell. 

Change the straw in the nest boxes every three weeks. 

Burn the old straw and hold the boxes in the flames. 

Put a small amount of Scotch snuff in the corners and cracks 
of the nest boxes before putting in new straw. 

Scrape up all the litter and dropping about the chicken house 
and yard once a week and put them on your garden. 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

WHEN THE BABY CHICKS ARE FOUR DAYS OLD. 

Make a mixture of one-half coal-oil and one-half lard. 

Dip the finger in the mixture and rub a tiny bit into the 
down on the backs of their heads and under the throat. Do this 
once a week until they begin to get their grown up feathers. 
This will keep the blood-sucking head lice from killing them. 

Provide a dust bath for the larger chickens and old hens. 
A box about two feet square and six inches deep filled with 
clean, dry soil to which has been added a small package of 
Scotch snuff placed in a dry, sunny location will be used by 
the biddies in keeping themselves free from body and feather 
lice. Don't allow the chickens to dust in an ash heap. It ruins 
the feathers and bleaches the legs of the yellow-legged varieties 
so you may not be able to win a prize with your chickens, if 
allowed to do this. 

FOR STICK TIGHTS AND BLUE BUGS. 

Have the druggist make an ointment of one part iodoform 
and 20 parts vaseline. 

Rub a little on where you find a bug. 
Clean up and look for the red mites every Saturday. 
Use the preventatives whether you find them or not. 
KEEP CLEAN. 




A Colony House. 

173 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CL UB MANUAL 

QUESTIONS. 

L Describe the kind of lice that usually injure the chickens 
early in the spring. 

2. Where would you look for these? 

3. How do these lice of mites injure the chickens? 

4. How would you go about destroying them? 

5. Why is it not a good practice to use coal oil about the 
nest? 

C. What treatment is recommended for baby chicks? 

7. What is recommended for larger chickens and old hens? 

8. Is it a good plan to allow the chickens to dust in an 
ash heap? 

9. What treatment is reconnnended for stick tights and 
blue bugs? 

Lesson No. (■). — Poultry C.lii!). 

SUMMER CHICK DISEASES. 

By G. C. NY ATKINS. 

There are three principle causes for baby chick ill. 

1. A chill, caused by wading out in the wet grass early in 
the morning, being caught out in a shower or too early removal 
from the nest. 

2. Too early and improper feeding. 

3. The presence of head lice on the chicks themselves or 
mites in their roosting quarters. 

The symptoms of trouble resulting from either of the above 
causes will be droopiness, peevishness and crying, and nearly 
always a diarrhea. 

If the trouble comes from either of the first two mentioned 
causes, the chicks should be kept warm and dry, and positively 
no food allowed them except a little boiled sweet milk to which 
has been added just a dash of grated nutmeg for two days. If 
they seem better at the end of this treatment, they may be grad- 
ually brought back to a full ration of their regular food. But 
care must be used that they get only a small quantity of feed 
at a time and require them to take plenty of exercise, scratching 
for the food given them. A part of the ration when possible 
should be clabber milk or butter milk. 

If the trouble is caused by lice or mites, the first thing is 
to get rid of the cause. If you think this is not the cause, be 
absolutely sure before you treat the chicks for something else. 
About nine times out of ten, illness in baby chicks, up to six 
weeks of age is caused by lice and mites. 

Look very closely on the head and throat for the head lice 
and for the nits from which they are hatched. Apply a little 
carbolated vaseline oi- a mixture of coal oil an<l lai'd to the top 

174 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

of the head and throat with the end of the finger, hcing careful 
not to overdo the amount. Repeat this once a week till the 
chicks are as large as quails. 

Then be sure that there are none of the little red mites in 
the coops or roosting quarters. Better wash them out thoroughly 
once every two weeks with strong, hot, lye soap suds, and pour 
a little coal oil in all the cracks. 

Don't let the mother hen lead her little ones out in the 
grass and weeds on a morning till all the dew has dried ofT and 
the sun is shining. 

Don't feed sloppy feed of any kind. Feed dry feed a little at 
a time and often, and be sure to let the little chicks out on the 
ground where they can scratch. 

Always be on the lookout for lice and mites, and keep every- 
thing sweet and clean. 

QUESTIONS. 

L Name three causes for illness among baby chicks? 

2. What are the symptoms for the above illness? 

3. How would you treat the chickens for such illness? 

4. Should the young chicks be allowed to run in the dew 
in the morning? 

5. Is it a good practice to feed sloppy food to chicks? 

6. Is it worth while to keep a close look out for lice and 
mites? 

7. Have you lost chickens from any of the causes given 
here? 



Lesson No. 7. — Poultry Club. 

FALL COLDS AND ROUP. 

By G. C. WATKIXS. 

When the fall rains come on with cooler nights, see that the 
chickens have dry roosting quarters and plenty of fresh air. A 
good tight roof over them is the main things, with a good wind- 
break on the north, east and west. Always keep south front 
open. 

If any of the birds contract colds as shown by watery eyes 
and nostrils, give a tablespoon of common salts, (Epsom) to each 
six half gro\vn fowls or three full grown ones. Give in drink- 
ing water or mash food and follow by giving each atTected bird 
a tw^o grain capsule of quinine. Then keep enough permangan- 
ate of potash in the drinking water to color it a light red, to 
prevent the colds developing into chronic roupy condition. 

Remember always, three things for health: Dry quarters, 
fresh aid and all the sunshine possible. 

175 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

GREEN FEED FOR WINTER. 

Plenty of green stuff through tlic winter means more eggs, 
better health, stronger chicks in the spring and a decided reduc- 
tion of the fee<l hill. 

Sow "dukes mixture" of winter growing plants: wheal, rye, 
winter oats, rape, collards, spinach, seven top turnips, crimson 
clover, red and bur clover, vetch, etc. Any or all of these sown 
together in good soil where the chickens can range on them at 
all times during the winter is good. Sow plenty of it and it is 
surprising what a large amount of grazing the chickens will do. 

Club members living near water courses in the rice grow- 
ing section can add valuable "meat rations to the chickens' bill 
of fare" by catching "crawdads" with a seine made from rice 
bags. A bucketful of "crawdads" chopped up with an okl 
spade and fed to the chickens once each week during the milder 
portion of the winter is one of the greatest egg producing feeds 
that can be used. Be careful not to overfeed. Those who can- 
not get the crawdads should try to get green bones and scraps 
from the local butcher and chop them \.\]) fine for the chickens. 

Keep everything sweet and clean. 

QUESTIONS. 

L ^Yhat are the symptoius for fall colds or roup among 
chickens? 

2. How would you prevent these? 

3. How would you treat the chickens for cold or roup? 

4. What are the three things essential for health among 
chickens? 

5. Has green feed any value in feeding chicks in the winter? 
G. What crops are recommended for winter feed for 

chickens? 

7. Have you ever used these crops for chickens and did you 
get good results? 

Lesson No. 8. — Poultry CluL. 

OUTLINE FOR ILLUSTRATED BOOKLET ON GIRLS' 
POULTRY CLUB WORK. 

Use a good grade drawing paper, about 9 by 11 inches. 

Make a cover design which will indicate in a neat and at- 
tractive manner the contents of the booklet. Do not make this 
cover design too gaudy in color. In drawing letters, chickens, 
marginal lines, etc., use water color paint if possible. Bind the 
booklet at the top with a modest colored baby ribbon or cord. 
Ask your teacher for cooperation in getting out this illustrated 
booklet. Illustrate the story as you proceed, using the following 
title and outline. 

176 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



HISTORY OP MY POULTRY. 

The purpose of the Girls' Poultry Club Work. 

Why I enrolled as a member. 

The breed selected and why I selecte<l it. 

a. Number of eggs started with or number of ihickens 
started with. 

h. How and where the eggs were set. 

c. Management and feed of setting hen, 

d. IManagement and feed of little chicks. 
Housing, (if a new house is built.) 

a. Describe kind of house. 

b. Location with reference to direction of front. 

c. Cost and time of building. 

(If an old house is remodeled.) 

a. Describe the changes. 

b. Cost and time of rebuilding. 
Feeding. 

a. What grains are fed. 

b. How often is water given. 
Management. 

a. Tell how often you can clean the house. 

b. ^Method of cleaning. 

c. Troubles from animals, insects or disease. 
Exhibit. 

a. Number of chickens taken to the Fair. 

b. Give time and place of Fair. 
Cooking. 

a. Give recipes for different ways of preparing poultry 
and eggs. 
Results. 

a. Number of chickens raised. 

b. Cost of raising. 

c. Number of eggs sold. 

d. Number of chickens sold. 

e. Profits. 
Conclusion. 

a. Benefit to you from Poultry Club work. 

b. Your name, address and county. 

Lesson Xo. 9. — Poultry Club. 

USE OF POULTRY CLUB PRODUCTS. 

(State's Relation Bulletin No. 777.) 

Since many women in the Home Demonstration Clubs and 
girls in the Poultry Clubs are working with poultry, we have a 
demand for information on the use of poultry products to be 
used in demonstration. The following material is prepared 

177 



BOYS' AND (HHLS' AGRICl LTUHAL CLUB MANUAL 

to meet this demand. It is important that the agents in their 
public demonstrations stress the use of only a few of the recipes 
at one time. Note especially the different uses of tomato sauce, 
which is one of the concentrated mixtures that we are stressing 
in the canning work. 

Throughout the instructions we would stress the fact that 
eggs should be cooked at a low temperature if the greatest en- 
joyment and value of food is to be obtained from eating them. 
Cooking eggs at a low temperature will keep them from becoming 
tough, which state renders them less digestible. All measure- 
ments are level and should be carefully made. The abbreviations 
used are: tbsp. — tablespoonful; tsp. — teaspoonful; c. — cup. 

SIMPLE WAY OF COOKING EGGS. 

Soft Cooked Ejjss- — Heat the water in the sauce pan to the 
boiling point. Hemove from fire and place eggs in the water 
with a spoon. (]over the pan and allow to stand 6 to 8 minutes, 
keeping the water at the same temperature. The water should 
be ileej) enough to entirely envelop the eggs. Remove the 
eggs and serve immediately. 

Allow them to stand 15 to 20 minutes if medium hard cooked 
eggs are desired. 

Hard Cooked Ej^gs. — Place eggs in a sauce pan of cold 
water and allow to slowdy come to the boiling point. As soon as 
it l)egins to boil i-emove from fire and cover the pan. Let stand 
for ;{() minutes, keeping the temi)erature even. Chill in cold 
water; remove shell and serve. 

I'oaehed Eggs on Toast. — Break each egg into a saucer. Com- 
bine an equal quantity of nnlk with water anil let this reach the 
boiling point. Carefully slip the egg into the boiling liciuid, 
cover, and remove from tire. (]ook until the white is iirm, and 
baste the >olk to form a film over it. Take up carefulh with a 
skinnner and serve on slices of toast. Season to taste. 

Steamed Eggs. — Ijutter slightly the bottom of custard cup and 
slip an egg into it. Place the cup in a pan of gently boiling 
water (water should come half way up side of cup); cover and 
steam luitil white of the egg is done. Steamed eggs may be 
served on crisp toast if desired. 

I*oached Eggs and Tomato Sauce. — Allowing ^j tbsp. of salt 
to one quart of water, have a shallow pan 2/3 full of boiling 
water. Break each egg separately into a saucer and slip them 
into the w^ater. Cook as for poached eggs and serve with the 
following sauce: 

2 c. canned tomatoes and 1 slice onion or 1 c. tomato sauce. 

I4 tsp. salt. 2 tbsp. Hour. 

2 tbsp. butter. ^s tsp. jjepper. 

Cook tomato and onion 20 minutes, then rub through a 
strainer. ^lelt the butter, add dry ingredients and strained loma- 

178 



BOYS' AND GIR LS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

toes. Tomatoes will retain their red color if the flour is browned 
before using. Pour this over the eggs and serve. 

BAKED EGG DISHES. 

Shirred Eggs. — Cover the bottom and sides of a small bak- 
ing dish, preferably an earthen one, with fine bread or cracker 
crumbs. Break each egg into a saucer and carefuly slip it into 
the dish. Cover with seasoned buttered crumbs and bake in a 
moderately hot oven until the whites are firm and crumbs are 
a golden brown. 

Egg in Nest. — Carefully separate the white from the yolk of 
an egg. Beat the white until stiff and pile lightly on a nicely 
trimmed slice of toast. With a spoon make a depression in the 
top of the white and slip the egg yolk into it. Place on a baking 
dish in a moderate oven and when the white has become a golden 
brown remove and serve. It may be seasone<l to taste.: 

Egg Baked in Tomato. — Cut a slice from the steam end of a 
small tomato and scoop out part of the pulp. Refill this with an 
egg, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add a few small bits of 
butter. Cover the opening with buttered crumbs and bake in 
a moderate oven until crumbs are a golden brown. 

EGGS COMBINED WITH SAUCES. 

Egg Goldenrod. — 

1 c. milk. 4 hard cooked eggs. 

2 tbsp. butter, • 1 tsp. chopped parsley. 
1/4 tsp. white pepper. % tsp. salt. 

P/l' tbsp. flour. 6 slices toast. 

Melt the butter add the dry ingredients and stir until smooth. 
Add the heated milk slowly, stirring contsantly, and allow to 
come to the boiling point. Separate the yolks from the whites 
of the hard cooked eggs. Chop the whites finely and add them 
to the white sauce. Cut the slices of toast in half and after ar- 
ranging on the platter, pour the sauce over them. Put the yolks 
through a potato ricer or press them through a strainer, sprinkle 
them over the sauce. Garnish with parsley and serve. 

Delicate Eggs. — 

ly- tbsp. butter. 2/3 c. milk. 

Vs tsp. pepper. G eggs. 

1/2 tsp. salt. 

Break eggs into a bowl and beat only enough to break the 
> oiks. Add the seasoning and milk. Pour mixture into the upper 
part of a double boiler in which the butter has been melted. 
Constantly stir and scrape from the bottom of the pan, allow- 
ing to cook until of a creamy consistency. 

Dutch Eggs. — 

6 hard cooked eggs. 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

la cup grated cheese. 
1 cup white sauce. 

1 sweet red pei)per cut into strips. 

Cut the eggs into (juarters and place about Vi of the amount 
in a buttered baking dish. Cover this layer with sauce, and 
sprinkle over it a layer of the cheese; then a few pieces of the 
pepper. Repeat until the dish is full. Sprinkle bread crumbs 
on top, dot with butter and brown in a hot oven. 

Ecalloped E^j^s. — 

2 tbsp. butter. i.L' tsp. salt. 

2 c. bread crumbs. 2 tbsp. dour. 

(! hard cooked eggs. 3 tbs]). grate^l cheese. . 

2 c. cooked macaroni. Vs tsj). i)epper. 

1 c. milk. 1 c. tomato sauce. 

]\Iake a sauce of the dour, butter, salt and pepper, and re- 
move from the (ire to add grated cheese. Stir until melted. Com- 
bine carefully the cooked macaroni, sliced egg and salt. After 
covering bottom of baking dish with buttered crundjs add the 
ndxturc. Then add rest of crumbs, brown in hot oven and serve 
with tomato sauce. 

StuJfed Ej,-f>s.— 

li tsp. salt. 1 ts|). vinegar. 

^4 tsp. mustartl. (i hard cooked eggs. 

Vs tsp. pei)per. 1 tsp. olive oil. 

^4 tsp. paprika. Butter. 

Cut the eggs in half, length-wise. Remove yolks and place 
them in a bowl. Mash thoroughly and add the seasoning, vinegar 
and oil. Add enough butter to make mixture of right consistency 
to shape. Make into balls the size of the original yolks and re- 
nil wdiites. Arrange on a serving dish and if desired to serve 
hot, pour around them one cup of white sauce. Cover and reheat. 

Creamed Eg:gs. — 

1 c. milk. 2 tbs]). butter. 
4 hard cooked eggs. 2 tbsp. flour. 
14 tsp. salt. ^/s tsp. pepper. 

Separate white from the yolks of the hard cooked eggs. Make 
a white sauce and add to this the yolks which have been pressed 
through a strainer. The white may be cut into small pieces and 
also added to the sauce. Creamed eggs are particularly nice 
when served on toast. 

OMELETS. 
Plain Omelet. — 

'4 tsp. salt 3 tbsp. hot water. 

2 tsp. butter. Vs tsp. white pepper. 

3 eggs. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs until light and creamy. Add salt, 
pepper and milk. Beat whites until still" and fold them into the 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



yolks. Heat a small frying pan and put in enough butter to 
cover the bottom of the pan, turn in the omelet and spread it 
evenly. When the omelet is set, carefully fold and turn out onto 
a hot platter. Serve immediately. 

French Omelet. — 

4V2 tbsp. milk. 1/2 tbsp. salt. 

2 tbsp. butter. 1/16 tsp. pepper. 

4 eggs. 

Beat the eggs slightly, just enough to mix yolks anil whites, 
then add the milk and seasoning. Put the butter in a small hot 
frying pan and when melted turn mixture into the pan. While 
this is cooking, mix slightly with a fork until the whole is of 
a creamy consistency. Place on a hotter part of the fire and 
allow to brown quickly underneath. Fold and turn on a hot 
platter. 

Spanish Omelet. — Mix and cook a French omelet. Serve 
with tomato sauce in the center and around the omelet: 

Tomato Sauce. — 

2 tbsp. butter. i/> tbsp. capers. 

IV2 tbsp. onion. , 3 tbsp. mushrrooms. 

1 c. tomatoes. 1/. tsp. salt. 
Cayenne. 

Brown onion (finely chopped) in the butter. Cook the tonui- 
toes with the onion for 15 minutes. Add the capers, mushrooms 
and seasoning. If desired substitute 3 tbsp. peas and 2 tbsp. 
chopped red peppers for the capers and mushrooms. 

Egg Souffle.— 

2 tbsp. butter, 1/2 c. cream. 
IV2 tbsp. flour. 1 tsp. salt. 
IV2 c. milk. Cayenne. 

5 eggs. 

Cream the butter, add the flour and gradually the scalded 
milk and cream. Cook in double boiler five minutes and add 
yolks of eggs which have been beaten until lemon colored. Add 
seasoning and fold in stiffly beaten whites. Turn into a buttered 
dish, set in a pan of hot water and bake in slow oven until Arm. 

CUSTARDS. 

Soft Custard. — 

1 c. milk. 2 tbsp. sugar. 
Vanilla. 34,; tsp. salt. 

2 eggs. 

Heat the milk in a double boiler. Mix the eggs in a bowl 
with the sugar and salt. Add hot milk slowly, stirring, and re 
turn mixture to the double boiler. Cook until custard will coat 
a silver spoon. Strain and serve. If the custard curdles, set the 
pan into cold water and beat the custard until smooth. 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Steamed or Baked Custard. — 

1 pt. milk. % c. sugar. 

2 eggs. Vs tsp. salt. 
Vs tsp. nutiucg. 

Mix eggs as for soft custard. Strain into tustard cups and 
steam until iirm over hot water which is hoiling gently. To 
bake: Strain the custard into cups and place in a pan of warm 
water. Bake in a moderate oven until the custard is firm. To 
test a steamed or baked custard, slip a knife blade to the bottom 
of the cup in the center of the custard and draw out without 
turning. If the knife is not coated the custard has cooked 
enough. Grate the nutmeg over the surface and cool before 
serving. 

Floating Island. — 

2'2 c. milk. 5 eggs (yolks). 

% tsp. salt. 1-2 tsp. vanilla. 

V-; c. sugar. 

Prepare as a soft custard. The whites should be beaten light 
and (5 tsp. of powdered sugar added for the meringue. When the 
custard is cool it may be poured into sauce dishes and the 
meringue dropped in large spoonfuls into it. 
Custard Pudding. — 

V2 c. pearl tapioca or rice 2 c. milk. 

2 eggs (yolks). 2 eggs (whites). 

H- tsp. vanilla. Vs tsp. salt. 

^•j c. sugar. 

Soak the tapioca in enough hot water to cover it, until it 
absorbs the water. Add the milk and cook in a double boiler 
until the tapioca is soft and transparent. Combine the yolks of 
eggs with sugar and salt and add to the mixture in the double 
boiler. Cook ten minutes. Add stifTly beaten whites and flavor- 
ing and when cold, serve. Rice must be cooked in boiling water 
until soft. 
Apple Whip. — 

2 c. ajiple sauce. (Iream for serving. 

4 eggs (whites). 

Cook (i or 8 medium-size apples until soft in just enough 
water to keep them from burning. Add sugar to suiliciently 
sweeten and Vs tsp. grated nutmeg. Cool. Press the apple sauce 
through a strainer and add to it the stitlly beaten whites of eggs. 
Beat until light and foamy. Pile onto saucers and serve with 
fresh cream or a custard sauce made of the egg yolks. This 
sauce may be prepared by the same method as for soft custard, 
omitting the whites of eggs. Canned fruit such as peaches, figs, 
cherries, or guava may be substituted in the same proportion as 
the apples. 

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BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



EGG SALAD AND SANDWICEHES. 

Stuffed Egg Salad.— 

Crisp lettuce. Mayonnaise. 

6 stuft'ed eggs. 

Follow recipe for stufTed eggs. Arrange 2 half eggs in nest 
of crisp fresh lettuce on salad dishes. Add mayonnaise dressing. 
Garnish with strips of sweet red pepper and serve. 
Egg Sandwiches. — 

6 hard cooked eggs. Mayonnaise or salad dressing. 

Remove the yolks and mash them thoroughly. Add mustard, 
salt, and pepper to taste and combine with enough mayonnaise 
to make of proper consistency to spread. Slice the whites very 
thin. Have bread cut thin and spread one slice with yolk mix- 
ture: add a few slices of the whites and place on other slice of 
bread which has been thinly buttered. Sandwiches may be kept 
fresh by folding in a damp napkin over which has been placed a 
dry napkin. Wrapping in parafTm paper is also an eft'ective 
method. 
Metropolitan Sandwiches. — 

Vi It) cheese. 3 hard cooked eggs. 

3 Ibsp. melted butter. 3 tbsp. cider vinegar. 

1 tsp. prepared mustard. Vi tsp. pepper. 
i/L' tsp, salt. 

Mash yolks, add butter, salt, pepper, and mustard, and mix 
until smooth. Grate cheese or put through a food shopper; chop 
whites of eggs. Mix all thoroughly, stir in vinegar, and spread 
between three or four thin slices of buttered bread; press to- 
gether, and cut in long, narrow strips. 

EGG SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. 

Hollandaise Sauce. — 

y^ c. butter. 1 c. boiling water. 

2 eggs (yolks). % tsp. salt. 

IV2 tbsp. lemon juice. Mo tsp. cayenne. 

Cream the butter, add the yolks one at a time and beat well; 
then add the lemon juice, salt and pepper. A short time before 
serving add boiling water. Cook over boiling water and stir 
until the mixture is of the consistency of custard, then serve im- 
mediately. 

This is a delicious dressing to serve with cauliflower, aspar- 
agus tips, or with fish. 
Egg Sauce for Fish. — 

V2 c. butter. 3 hard cooked eggs (cut in 

2 tbsp. flour. y2-in. slices). 

iy2 c. boiling water. y- tsp. salt. 

Melt the butter, add flour and seasoning and gradually the 
boiling water. Add sliced eggs and serve. 

183 



■ BOYS' AND GIRLS' ACiRICULTURAL CLl B MANUAL 

Mayonnaise Dressing. — 

lit tsp. mustard. 2 tbsp. vinegar or lemon 
% tsp. salt. juice. 

2 eggs (yolks). Ca>enne. 

1 c. olive or Wesson oil. 

Mix yolks and add mustard, salt, and cayenne. Add the oil 
a few ilrops at a time and stir steadily. When half the oil has 
been used, or when the dressing becomes very thick , alternate 
with a few drops of vinegar. Continue this process until both 
are used. If the dressing curdles, start the process over again, 
beginning with a fresh yolk in a clean bowl, adding a little of the 
curdled dressing at a time and stirring constantly. 

(^ooked Salad Dressing. — 

Vi tbsp. mustard. Vs tsp. cayenne pepper. 

Vt tbsp. salt. 2 eggs. 

2 tbsp. Hour. 2 tbsp. butter. 
I tbsp. sugar. % c. vinegar. 
•■'4 c. sweet milk. 

Rub together the dry ingredients and a<ld egg yolks, slightly 
beaten. Add melted butter, cold milk, and hot vinegar in the 
order named, stirring until perfectly smooth. Cook the mixture 
in a double boiler until thickened. Set the pan into a bowl of 
cold water and beat well until cool and smooth. 

Golden Dressing. — 

^4 c. lemon juice. (] tl)sp. sugar. 

Vi c. light colored fruit juice. 2 eggs (yolks). 

Beat the eggs, adil the fruit juice, stir gradually into the 
lemon juice and add the sugar. Ckiok in a double boiler and stir 
until the mixture coats a spoon. Cool quickly by placing pan 
into cold water, beating the mixture at the same time. This 
dressing is combined with fruits to be served as salads or des- 
serts. Some attractive combinations of Canning Club products 
are: 

L Canned peaches, cherries, and fresh apples, using cherry 
juice with the lemon in the dressing. 

2. Canned figs, fresh oranges, and pecans, using orange 
juice in the dressing. 

3. Guava, pineapple, and grai)efruit, using pineapi)le juice 
in the dressing. 

4. ('anned berries or fresh grapes, apples, antl jjears, using 
scuppernong juice in the dressing. 

Any of these dishes may be made especially attractive by 
garnishing them with nuts, whole cherries, berries, or mashmal- 
lows. 

184 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 



RECIPES FOR USE OF CHICKEN. 

Dressing and Cleaning. — 

Remove feathers. Hold the bird over a flame to remove hair 
and down, constantly changing the position until all parts of the 
surface have been exposed. Cut ofT the head and draw out the 
pin feathers, using a small pointed knife. Cut through the skin 
around the leg, about IVi; inches below the leg joint, care being 
taken not to cut the tendons. Snap the bone and take the foot 
in your right hand, holding the bird firndy in the left, pull off the 
foot and with it the tendons. In old birds the tendons must be 
drawn separately, which is best accomplished by the use of a 
steel skewer. Make an incision through the skin below the 
breast bone, just large enough for the hand, and remove the en- 
trails, gizzard, heart, and liver. The three last named are called 
giblets. The gall bladder, lying just under the surface of the 
liver, is removed with the liver, care being taken not to break it. 
Inclosed by the ribs and on either side of the backbone are the 
lungs, which are bright red in color and spongy. These must be 
entirely removed. Remove also the kidneys, which lie in the 
hollow near the end of the backbone. The windpipe may easily 
be removed by putting two fingers under the skin close to the 
neck. Remove the crop, which will be found adhering to the 
skin close to the breast. Draw down the neck skin and cut off 
the neck close to the body, leaving the skin long enough to fasten 
under the back. Remove the oil bag and wash the bird, allow- 
ing cold water to run through it but not allowing the bird to 
soak in the water. Wipe inside and out and examine carefully to 
see that everything has been removed. 
Trussing. — 

Draw- the thighs close to the body and hold by inserting a 
steel skew-er under the middle joint, running it through the body 
and coming out under the mi<ldle joint on the other side. Cut 
a piece about an inch wide from the neck skin, and with it fasten 
the legs together at the ends; or cross the drumsticks, tie se- 
curely with a long string and fasten to tail. Place the wings 
close to the body and hold them by inserting a second skewer 
through the wing, body, and wing on opposite side. Draw the 
neck under the back and fasten with a smaller wooden skewer. 
Turn the bird on its breast, cross the string attached to the tail 
and draw it around each end of the lower skewer; again cross 
the string and draw around each end of upper skewer, fasten the 
string in a knot and cut oft' the ends. 

Chicken Broth. — 

IMi lbs. meat and bone. 1 qt. cold w^ater. Salt. 
Draw, singe, clean thoroughly and disjoint the fowl. After 
removing the meat from the bone grind it and then add the bones. 

185 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAL 

Put all in a saucepan, add the water and stand for 15 minutes in 
a cold place. Cook over moderate heat in a double boiler for 6 
or 8 hours, or cook in a fireless cooker. Strain and season. 
When cold, remove the fat, reheat and serve. 
Stewed Chicken. — 

Dress and cut up medium-size chicken. Put into a kettle and 
cover with water. Add salt and simmer slowly several hours, 
until the meat is very tender. After lifting out the chicken make 
a thickening, using 2 tbsp. flour and adding 1 pt. of the stock for 
gravy. Season to taste. 

Dumplings may be cooked in the stock and served with 
gravy. 

(thicken prepared in this way may be cooked in a tireless 
cooker. 

Broiled Chicken. — 

Singe and wipe, and with a sharp knife cut through the back- 
bone the entire length of the bird. Lay open the bird and re- 
move the contents. Remove the ribs and breast bone and cut 
the tendons at the joints. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, place 
in a well-greased broiler and broil for about twenty minutes 
over a clear tire, turning frequently so that all parts may be 
equally browned. Remove to a hot platter and spread with soft 
butter. 

BAKED CHICKEN DISHES. 

Baked Chicken. — 

Dress, clean, stufT, and truss the chicken. Place on its back 
in a baking pan, rub the entire surface with salt, then spread two 
tablespoonfuls of butter on the breast and legs. Dredge the bot- 
tom of the pan with Hour, place in a hot oven and when Hour is 
well browned, reduce the heat and then baste. Continue bast- 
ing every ten minutes until chicken is cooked. For basting, use 
tablespoonful of butter melted in two-thirds cup of boiling water 
and after this has gone, use the fat in the pan. During the cook- 
ing turn the chicken frequently to brown it evenly. If a glazed 
surface is preferred do not dredge during the baking, but if a 
crusted surface is desired, dredge with flour during the baking. 
When the breast meat is tender the bird is sufTiciently cooked. 
A four-pound chicken requires about IV2 hours. This method 
of baking chicken can be used in a fireless cooker provided 
heated disks or soapstones are used to furnish sufficient heat to 
brown it. 

Escalloped Chicken. — 

Slightly butter an earthen baking dish, put into it a la>er of 
cold cooked chicken which has been sliced or cut in cubes, then 
a layer of rice or boiled macaroni. Alternate until the dish is 
full and pour over it tomato sauce. Cover with buttered bread 
crumbs and bake in a hot oven until brown. 

186 



BOYS' AND GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLUB MANUAI. 

Chicken Souffle. — 

1¥2 c. scalded milk. 2 eggs (yolks), well beaten, 

Hi c. butter. M; tbsp. parsley, chopped. 

3 tbsp. flour. 2 eggs (whites) beaten still". 

V2 c. soft bread crumbs. Vs tsp. pepper. 

2 c. cold cooked chicken. 

Make a sauce with butter, flour, salt, pepper, and milk. Add 
the bread crumbs and let stand until thoroughly blended. Add 
chicken, yolks of eggs, and parsley, and fold in the stiffly beaten 
whites. Turn into a buttered baking dish and bake thirty min- 
utes in a slow oven. Serve immediately. 

CHICKEN COMBINED WITH SAUCES. 

Creamed Chicken on Toast. — 

2 c. cold cooked chicken. 14 tsp. salt. 

2 tbsp. butter. Vs tsp. celery salt. 

2 tbsp. flour. 6 slices toast. 
1 c. milk. 

Make a white sauce and heat the chicken in the sauce. Add 

the celery salt, pour the chicken over the toast and serve. 

Chicken a la King. — 

1 tbsp. chicken fat. V) c. salted mushrooms. 

1 tbsp. flour. 2 eggs (yolks). 

"■'(> c. canned pimentos. V2 c. cream. 

1 c. cold boiled fowl, cut in Vi c. milk, 
strips or cubes. 2 tsp. butter. 

% c. chicken stock. Vj tsp. salt. 

Melt the fat, add flour and stir until smooth. Add gradually 
the stock, milk, and cream. When this boils add salt, butter, 
fowl, mushrooms, and pimentos. Let it come to the boiling point 
and add egg yolks slightly beaten. Serve on toast. 

Chicken Salad. — 

1 c. cold cooked chicken. 1 c. celery. 

Mayonnaise dressing. 

Cut chicken into half inch cubes. Cut celery into small 
pieces and combine with chicken. Add enough mayonnaise 
dressing to make it possible to mold the salad. Serve on crisp 
lettuce leaves and garnish with slices of hard cooked eggs. 

CHICKEN COOKED IN FIRELESS COOKER. 

Stuffed Chicken.— 

Dress medium-size chicken and stuff with bread stufling. 
Sear it in the oven for 15 minutes. Place in tireless cooker and 
when hot soapstones are used, cook 2 hours or until thoroughly 
tender. Without hot soapstones, cook 3 hours. 

187 



BOYS'^NJ) GIRLS' AGRICULTURAL CLITB MANUAL 

Creole Chicken.- — 

1 incdiiini sized chicken. % tb ham or 2 or 3 slices of 

G tomatoes or 1 No. 2 can to- bacon chopped finely. 

matoes. 1 bay leaf. 

3 sweet red pepi)ers cut in 2 tbsp. chopped parsley. 

small cubes. 2 tsp. salt. 

3 sweet green peppers cut in 1 onion (size of egg). 

small cubes, or 1 No. 2 can 2 tbsp. butler or bacon drip- 
peppers, pings. 
Place the chicken with 1 c. boiling water in the tireless 
cooker vessel, cover and simmer for V2 hour. Brown the 
chopped onion in the fat. Simmer tomatoes for 15 minutes with 
the bay leaf, strain, and pour over the onions. Add minced ham 
and parsley and cook for 15 minutes longer. To this mixture 
add the chopped pepjjers and chicken stock and bring to a boil. 
Place the chicken in the cooker vessel, pour over the mixture of 
vegetables and let it boil 5 minutes. Put at once into the lireless 
cooker. With hot soapstones let the chicken stay in the cooker 
for 2 hours; without soapstones, for 3 hours. 

Bread Stuffing. — 

1 c. bread. Salt and i)epper. 

^.; c. butter. Thyme. 

Vi c. boiling water. Sage. 

Add seasoning to the bread crumbs and i)our boiling water, 
to which the butter has been added, over the bread crumbs. 

Chicken Spaghetti. — 

Stew the chicken in part of the lireless cooker and cook spag- 
hetti in another container of the cooker. The spaghetti should 
be boiled 5 minutes over the tire, well covered with boiling salt 
water and then put into the fireless cooker. When the chicken 
is tender, remove from the stock and make the gravy. Arrange 
spaghetti on platter and place chicken on it and pour the gravy 
over it. This might also be served with tomato sauce. 



188 



INDEX 



Page. 

Extension Stall' 3 

Introduction 4 

Scope of the Work 5 

How the Work Is Organized 5 

Application Form for Membership 6 

General Rules for ^Membership 6 

Special Regulations 6 

Corn Club 6 

Cotton Club 8 

Peanut Club 8 

Potato Club 8 

Wheat Club 9 

Pig Club 9 

Calf Club 10 

Sheep Club 10 

Canning Club 11 

Poultry Club 11 

Organization of Community Clubs 11 

How to Organize 12 

Suggested Constitution 13 

Community Club Record Contest (Score Card) 14 

Community Club Exhibit Contest (Score (^ard) 14 

Suggested Prizes for (Community Clubs 14 

Suggested Topics for Monthly Programs (Roys) 15 

Suggested Topics for Monthly Programs (Girls) 20 

Suggested Program for Joint Meeting 22 

How to Conduct a [Meeting 22 

Reference Bulletins — 

Corn Club 23 

Cotton Club 23 

Peanut Club 23 

Pig Club 23 

Calf Club 23 

Sheep Club 23 

Potato Club 24 

Canning Club 24 

Poultry Club 25 

Club Lesson Topics for Teachers' Guide 25 

Correlation of Club Lessons with Regular Studies 28 

189 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR CLUB MEMBERS. 
Boys' Clubs. 

Corn Club. Page. 

Selecting anil Feitilizing the Acre 31 

Preparation of Seed Bed 32 

Good Seed 34 

Planting Corn 3G 

Cultivation 37 

Field Selection of Seed Corn 39 

Soil Improvements — Cover Crops 41 

Selecting Exhibits — Score Card 44 

Care of Farm Machinery 46 

Cotton Club. 

Preparation of Seed Bed and Fertilization 48 

Testing Seed and Planting 49 

Cultivation 51 

liules for Cotton Growing 52 

Peanut Club. 

Growing Spanish Peanuts 53 

Harvesting Peanuts 54 

Curing and Stacking 55 

Potato Club. 

Kind of Soil 56 

Selecting the Seed 57 

Cultivation 58 

Late Potatoes 59 

Selecting and .ludging l^otatoes 60 

Wheat Club. 

Soil Picquirements and I'reparalion of Seed Bed 61 

Seeding 63 

Insect Pests and Diseases 64 

Pig Club. 

Selecting the Pigs 65 

Crop Plan for Forage Crops 68 

Plan for (Growing Winter Feed for Pigs 70 

How to Make Your Pig Grow 71 

Feeds and Feeding 72 

Pasture for Pigs 74 

Score Card for Lard Type 76 

Preparing the Pig for the Fair 77 

How to Make a Hog-Crate 78 

Producing Strong Pigs 79 

Hints on Managing the Sow and Litter 82 

Selection of Brood Sows 82 

Feed and Care Before Farrowing 83 

Bations for lirood Sows ^ 84 

Care of Sow at Farrowing Time 85 

Pushing the Suckling Pig 85 

190 



Calf Club. p.,gp 

Selecting the Calf 87 

Score Card for Dairy Heifer Calves 89 

Score Card for Beef Calves <)() 

Pasture for (halves 90 

Roughages to Feed Calves 91 

Grain Ration for Calves 92 

Care and Management of Calf 93 

Sheep Club. 

Selecting the Ewe 95 

Score Card for Ewe 9G 

Feeding the Club Ewe and Lamb 97 

Pasture for the Ewe and Lamb 98 

Management of Ewe in Fall and Winter 100 

Management of Ewe During Spring and Sununer 101 

Further Management of the Ewe and Lamb 102 

Girls' Clubs. 
Canning Club. 

Selecting the Plot 103 

Starting the Plants 104 

Transplanting Into Open Field 100 

Staking, Pruning and Cultivation 107 

Insects of Tomatoes 108 

Rules for Prevention of Diseases 110 

Information Concerning Tomato Diseases 112 

Other Vegetables for One-tenth Acre 113 

How to Make a Home-made Canner llo 

Canning 11(5 

Steps Taken in Canning in Tin 118 

Brining and Seasoning 121 

Standards for 4-H Brand Canned Vegetables 121 

Preparation for Canning in Glass 122 

Canning Peppers 124 

Canning Vegetables (Table) 125 

Canning Fruits (Table) 12(5 

Preserving \ 12!) 

Preserved Figs, etc 131 

Pickling 133 

Spiced (Aicumber Salads, etc. 134 

Drying Vegetables and Fruit for Home Use 137 

Dried Vegetables 138 

Storing Dried Vegetables 142 

How^ to Build and Use a Fireless Cooker 145 

Using the Home-made Cooker 147 

Soups, etc 149 

Fall and Winter Gardens 150 

Sauces, Etc I57 

191 



1l 



/I 



y 



Page. 

Foods that (Ian Be I'sed Soinotinies Inslciid of ^ilcat 152 

IVamits lo2 

Soy Ht-ans 153 

Cow iVas 155 

AFilk 150 

Sauc-es, etc 157 

How to Use Dried Fruits 15(S 

Breads — and \Yheat Substitutes 16!) 

Liglit or Yeast Brea<l 102 

Stored Vegetables and Tlieir I'se.-. .104 

Poultry Club. 

Instructions to Members 100 

Variety of (^bickens — Nests 107 

("bicken Houses and Coops .....10!) 

Feed for Cbicks 170 

Lice and Mites !...172 

Summer (Ibiik Diseases 174 

Fall Colds and Biouj) 175 

Outline for Illustrated Booklet, Poultry Club 170 

I'se of Poultry Club Products 177 

Simple Ways of Cooking Eggs 178 

Becipes for I'se of Chickens 185 

Baked Chicken Dishes 180 

('hickens ('ooked in Fireless Cooker 187 

ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Demonstration in Seed Bed Preparation by Count> Agent 

and Corn Club Boy 3.3 

1\'st, Don't (iuess— A C.ood Way 35 

Showing Distribution of Corn Boots 38 

The First Step in Making Big Yields 40 

A Bushel of Corn Safely anil Cheai)ly Stored 41 

Undesirable Ears — Poor Characteristics 43 

Desirable Ears — Good Characteristics 44 

Besults of One Year's Work in South Franklin 45 

The Wrong Way and Pdght Way to Care for Your Plows 47 

The Type That Wins 00 

This Will Help Keep the Bo\ s on the Farm 07 

How to Make a Hog-Crate 78 

Hogs Like Warm House, Too 80 

The Aim of Every Pig Club Member 83 

A Good Type of Dairy C^alves 88 

A Good Type of Beef (halves 88 

A Well Staked Tomato Garden 107 

A Handy Home-made Canner 115 

A Home-nuide Drier 130 

Fireless Cooker — What I>very Home Should Have 140 

192 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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